Honda-SOHC

Yes, the top gasket set includes a cylinder base gasket.

Just Google 06110-393-S00 and you'll find a CMSNL result where there is a photo of the Honda CB750F1 gasket set contents.

If somebody could advise me where to fit the two oil feed 'o' rings supplied with this gasket set - on the base gasket or head gasket? 

Spent loads of cash doing up the bike over the winter and first time out discovered the head gasket leaking oil at the front outer head studs where they go through 'O' rings .

Rather than spending more cash I tried a botch up and after 700 miles it's still holding .

Here's what I used:-

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/SM_BwkFUCP7kGETbr6pYwg?feat=directlink

Cleaned away all traces of oil, grease and caked on grime with brake cleaner and cotton buds until absolutely spotless all the way around the front outer stud boss.


Applied this P U sealant/adhesive purchased from local motor factors and left to set for 24 hours.

http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/162/tiger-seal%E2%84%A2-pu-adhesive-and-sealant.htm


I ran a bead of sealant from under the exhaust rose at the front to half way along the gasket edge at the side. I used a piece of small plastic tube fixed onto the nozzle of the tube to get access right into the gasket edge.

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/OjtPCJf8sGatBcJSMvO_5Q?feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/MzemzVl7rdTPVeV3s-OJrQ?feat=directlink


Hope this might help others 
   

Hope it might help others looking for a cheaper option brake caliper piston 

Mine was missing too, I had an old CB500F switch and changed the lever complete with the knob, fits OK. 

Looks the same as the lever in your photo BTW.

Hi,

Yes has had new plugs and points fitted.
 
Timing done with strobe light.
 
Carbs removed and cleaned out and balanced with mercury gauges.

Valve clearances and cam chain adjusted.

New after market air filter fitted.
 
Air screws adjusted to 1 3/4 turns out.
 
Idles at 1000rpm when hot.

Only on very light load and small throttle openings the motor is lumpy and erratic.

I notice that spark plugs No 1 and 3 are a little sooty compared to spark plugs No 2 and 4. Do you think I should turn the air screws out a bit more on carbs No 1 and 3 and see what happens? 

Yes you were right on both counts.

The wire insulation was chaffed through just where it exits the front sprocket cover. I repaired that first but it did not cure the problem.

I then removed the switch and soaked it in a small tub of brake cleaner.
Even though I recently changed the oil and filter the switch was still full of gunge.
 
Managed to get it cleaned out by pressing the plunger ball in and out while it was submerged in brake cleaner. Followed by a blast of compressed air.

Just back from a 30 mile run and it's still working OK 

Today my neutral light went wonky. Lights up in 2nd,3rd and 4th gears (and neutral) goes out only in 1st and 5th.

Is it likely to be a faulty switch or dirty connection? 

Just changed my F1 engine oil and oil filter today. With the engine hot I drained the oil tank, engine sump and oil filter housing.

Took just under 3 litres of oil to refill it to the top mark on the dip stick although the sticker on the oil tank states engine oil capacity 3.5 litres.

Have I missed something or is this normal?