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Messages - Bryanj
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6691
« on: July 19, 2016, 05:20:42 PM »
As the k3 has the wiring outside the bars any shop should be able to sell you lots of different styles
6692
« on: July 19, 2016, 05:16:50 PM »
if its a 78 K3 the carbs are notoriously a pain
6693
« on: July 19, 2016, 05:15:27 PM »
The servicing schedule should be in the bike handbook including when to clean or change, Suzuki used to say swop the plugs on the same coil over to even out spark wear
6694
« on: July 19, 2016, 05:09:02 PM »
Adjusting the reg should only be done with a guaranteed good fully charged battery and within certin ambient temperatures that I can't remember
6695
« on: July 18, 2016, 06:20:03 AM »
Forget the Haynes manual treat is as two separate twin cylinders,
With the static mark at T 1&4 rock the engine backwards and forwards slightly, one cylinder valves will move so set the other cylinder, rotate the engine one turn and the cylinder with valves moving will swop so set the other.
Now set the static mark at T 2&3 and repeat above
It can be done with less turns of the engine but as a rookie the procedure described is the most foolproof
6696
« on: July 16, 2016, 08:16:20 PM »
As a very quick down and dirty test using jump leads from a car battery(car NOT running) put the leads on the battery then the neg free end to a good bit of frame and touch the pos free end to the lead of the solenoid that goes to starter---if engine turns starter is OK so fault lies with solenoid or wiring to same, report back and i will give you more tests
6697
« on: July 16, 2016, 01:06:43 AM »
Don't forget to put the primary gear inside the chain first
6698
« on: July 16, 2016, 01:02:36 AM »
Cable routing makes a big difference Also DO NOT lubricate the internals of the original cables as the inner is rubber coated and the outer is nylon lined and oil tends to make them swell into each other and bind
6699
« on: July 16, 2016, 01:00:30 AM »
I remember it because my one time boss, Neal Frazer, who owns Frazers of Gloucester bought a K? from Skellerns of Worcester with all the goodies (Tank. bars, sidepanels,etc) removed and had the frame and swingarm nickel plated then built a "New" Dunstal. Two weeks later it started knocking and he had to take just the engine to Skellerns who took over a month to fit new crank, rods and shells also supplying the new oil hose. It may even be in the bulletin list--not sure
6700
« on: July 14, 2016, 04:59:50 PM »
If its knocking its already irrepairable mates
6701
« on: July 14, 2016, 05:53:14 AM »
There was a batch of oil feed lines fitted from the factory that had an internal "Kink" and restricted flow, as far as I know they should all have been changed under warrantee along with the crank and shells.
If you "clonk" is a bad bearing you will need a different crank and shells as these cranks can not be re ground
6702
« on: July 14, 2016, 05:47:04 AM »
Forget the semi it isn't worth the cost, and if it is hot used 20W50
6703
« on: July 13, 2016, 04:07:06 PM »
What oil are you using
6704
« on: July 12, 2016, 04:20:29 PM »
The rubbers are inside the primary drive gear on the primary shaft, the big lump the chain drives and has the starter clutch on it, the clanking is usualy the primary chain if the carbs are not in sync
6705
« on: July 11, 2016, 08:41:05 AM »
Sorry cant do DS, my back wouldn't take the 4 hours there and if i did get there i'd never get home again!!
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