Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: Paulreade on January 15, 2019, 10:59:37 PM
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Hi guys
Have just changed the oil and filter on the k6 and just before I filled the oil tank I thought I'd have a look inside. There is around 6 mm of thick sludge in the bottom. None of this came out with the old oil so would have gone unnoticed had I not peeked in the actual tank. I proceeded to try and remove the tank until I noted a further feed / braided pipe at the rear which I could not get to ( obviously a feed and return pipe set up) So I re installed the tank and went ahead and filled it, with a view to doing another day.
I went on line and the only reference I could find with regard to its removal was to 'take the engine out' which appears a little drastic.
Has anyone removed it without too much of a strip down for a clean. Has anyone had any issues with the sludge - guess what I am asking is should I ensure its clean before I run it again. I'm sure this sludge has been in the tank for a while and it does not seem to have caused any issues to date , but thought I should get a second opinion on the matter ?
Regards
Paul
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Hi guys
Have just changed the oil and filter on the k6 and just before I filled the oil tank I thought I'd have a look inside. There is around 6 mm of thick sludge in the bottom. None of this came out with the old oil so would have gone unnoticed had I not peeked in the actual tank. I proceeded to try and remove the tank until I noted a further feed / braided pipe at the rear which I could not get to ( obviously a feed and return pipe set up) So I re installed the tank and went ahead and filled it, with a view to doing another day.
I went on line and the only reference I could find with regard to its removal was to 'take the engine out' which appears a little drastic.
Has anyone removed it without too much of a strip down for a clean. Has anyone had any issues with the sludge - guess what I am asking is should I ensure its clean before I run it again. I'm sure this sludge has been in the tank for a while and it does not seem to have caused any issues to date , but thought I should get a second opinion on the matter ?
Regards
Paul
Paul - Give me a call tomorrow and I’ll talk you through this. Have this diagram in front of you as well.
But, in short, the tank can be removed and cleaned without removing the engine. It’s fiddly, but can be done...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190115/b106c8d2438a511ba3ec3eff8aa1ee25.jpg)
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Sorry for jumping in.
But in the detail bottom left of diagram. Is suggests Not all the oil goes through the filter eliment. Am I correct?
What is the purpose of the spring loaded valve inside the bolt?
Would it be possible to shorted the bolt thread by 10mm without compromising its operation?
I ask this because I want to fit a oil cooler I have had for years, but have lost the sandwich plate adapter bolt. So I have had one made but.
I cannot get the filter housing to close up to the plate. There is a 10mm gap. Shortening the thread on the filter bolt would cure this. But I'm worried that by doing so. I may restrict the oil flow.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Sean.
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Sean,
The spring is a bypass valve in case the filter gets clogged up.
Regards,
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Will do James, any particular time ?
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Cheers Paul.
I should be OK, in that case.
Regards.
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Shortening the bolt as long as it screws into an adaptor wont hurt as long as only YOU work on the bike as it the cooler is ever removed a NEW bolt would be needed.
Q how many turns does the bolt go round before the thread bottoms in the adaptor?
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A bit intrigued here, when i built my bike (750 K4) the engine went in first and the oil lines and oil tank didn’t go in until much later. When i had an oil leak after the first running of the motor I had the oil lines off several times and eventually replaced them as they were perished and the cause of the leak.. but my point is that they were very easy to remove... and the tank is also easy to remove..? So im wondering where the fiddly process comes in, not trying to be funny, just curious... I guess a glug of petrol and a swirl around with a pipe cleaner and a good shake with the tank removed would get rid of any sludge and i think its a good idea to do it... mine looked ok inside when i first built it but i will have a go at the next oil change anyway.
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Hello Bryan.
The bolt screws in to the hilt but still left a 10mm gap.
So I turned the bolt down 10mm & everything appears fine.
There will only be me working on the bike.
The adapter bolt I had made is as near to the lost original as I can remember. But I don't recall the filter bolt being any shorter. Can't just work that one out.
Sean.
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Hello Bryan.
The bolt screws in to the hilt but still left a 10mm gap.
So I turned the bolt down 10mm & everything appears fine.
There will only be me working on the bike.
The adapter bolt I had made is as near to the lost original as I can remember. But I don't recall the filter bolt being any shorter. Can't just work that one out.
Sean.
Sean
I'm sure someone will correct me but didn't the later F models have a different oil filter housing arrangement - just wondering if thats the case, would the filter bolt be longer? You then may have a later longer bolt for your earlier model (can't remember which model you have). The 'F' model experts will be along shortly to advise (and correct me!)
Phil
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The F2 had a longer bolt with a "sandwich" plate that was supposed to aid cooling. Look at the spares fiche to see.
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The oil cooler I am using. Was previously on my F1 years ago.
So maybe the answer lies there.
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Hi guys, I've answered my own question after doing a strip down of the bike. The rear fastening to the rear of the oil tank and hidden beneath the battery box can be reached quite easily on removing the rear wheel and plastic mudguard. Just thought I'd post that thought for anyone having a similar dilemma.