Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: gary123 on January 25, 2023, 04:18:38 PM
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Picking this up on saterday, not a great photo more on ebay.[attachimg=1]
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Oh, and it hasnt been fly tipped.
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The future is Orange, ......hopefully not. :)
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Well done Gary 👍👍👍
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Looks pretty tidy, a good buy
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Looks a tidy starting point - looks can be deceptive - looks a better starting point than your last build. Be interesting to see how it goes.
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Took a bit of a punt, but the seller seems very genuine and it looks to be all there. It will not be staying orange.
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More Jaffa than Honda.
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That looks a good project Gary - and as you say, its all there - a very important prerequisite
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Nice one Gary. Excellent restoration fodder, or even just a smarten up and ride project. Best of luck and keep us up to date with progress👍
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At the moment Im thinking of this kind of thing. (shamelessly stolen from Julie ang Graham).[attachimg=1]
But that could change.
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Got it home and its way better than I had hoped for so may go for a standard restoration. Doesn't seem right to cut a bike that can be saved.
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Got it home and its way better than I had hoped for so may go for a standard restoration. Doesn't seem right to cut a bike that can be saved.
Makes sense Gary. To build bikes like mine and Grahams, you need to start with a pile of shite with a straight frame and log book 😂😂😂😂
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The future is Orange, ......hopefully not. :)
And then there were three. Looks great and just the mirrors (easyish to get) and the exhaust (nigh impossible to get) to make it standard.
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It looks very tidy so it does seem a pity to chop it up...my 'parts bin special' is an old, straight frame with spare engine and parts, wheels, stuff cadged from anywhere and from my spares box.
It's already nicer than my finished article! But as long as it rides, I'm happy.
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What's this talk of cutting up have I missed something here?
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Got it home and its way better than I had hoped for so may go for a standard restoration. Doesn't seem right to cut a bike that can be saved.
You may be able to use something like a 750 F1 tank and fabricate a seat pan to have as the only significant mods (leave all frame alone) to get something different from std look with little work
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Of this ilk- ish, and fully returnable to stock.
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Ohhhh Lester wheels. I love Lester wheels, mine are almost ready to be powder coated.
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That’s lovely, the rims are ace! You been fiddling to get em right Ken before you send them in?
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Yeah, I've polished the rims and the edges of the spokes. Fronts done, just need to finish the rear.
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They do look good dont they, the Lesters.
Thought I'd put that up as illustration of how far just a small shift can be so very effective in the thread context of modifications. Doesn’t appear to have any frame mods but looks significantly different in style to original bike architecture.
The longer and easily available tank (if it fits the 550 frame) shifts the style and puts the rider further back, to need less compromise in seat length to then look in proportion while retaining those std rear frame legs and avoiding any need to cut.
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What's this talk of cutting up have I missed something here?
See post no 10. thats what I was thinking of doing, but will proberbly say with standard now.
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Got it home and its way better than I had hoped for so may go for a standard restoration. Doesn't seem right to cut a bike that can be saved.
You may be able to use something like a 750 F1 tank and fabricate a seat pan to have as the only significant mods (leave all frame alone) to get something different from std look with little work
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That F1 looks amazing but Im moving away from clip ons. The 2nd pic was what I had in mind and would involve cutting the back of the frame.
Im still thinking and it will take a while to strip and sort the engine so plenty of time.
Of this ilk- ish, and fully returnable to stock.
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Luckily, on both mine and Triggers mongrels, the only thing that Graham cut off was the back end of the frame and welded in a hoop and removed the seat hinges. This is easily reversable, just remove the hoop and weld the back end back on and the seat hinges. All the other frame tabs are still in situ in their original positions.
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Luckily, on both mine and Triggers mongrels, the only thing that Graham cut off was the back end of the frame and welded in a hoop and removed the seat hinges. This is easily reversable, just remove the hoop and weld the back end back on and the seat hinges. All the other frame tabs are still in situ in their original positions.
Yes, still thinking about doing that
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Made a bit of a start.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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Getting to the rear wheel bearings I have come up against the dreaded retaining ring. Haynes manual says it can be normal or left hand thread depending on year.
Does anyone know which way mine will be before I smack the crap out of it. Its a 77 F1.
TIA
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Haynes is wrong again i think, all the ones ive seen have been lh thread
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Should be marked with thread direction, it's reverse from normal, so righty tighty becomes righty loosey.
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Thanks guys, Im going to try and make a tool so as not to damage it.
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Didn't need to, came out easy. Your right, left and fred, so good advice. Cheers.
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Bit of progress stripping down. Sadly the downpipes are rotten so not sure what to do about that, new ones for Motad cannot be found so maybe delkevic.
On the plus side I found a tool kit of sorts and the original handbook (i think). Might put that on ebay, they seem to fetch silly money.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
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[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
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Tool kit is almost all there.. The spark plug spanner is original, bit battered but better than you can buy new these days. You're missing the flat bladed screwdriver and it's handle, the spanner isn't original, there should be a 10x12mm spanner and a 14x17mm spanner IIRC, the C spanner also doesn't look right. Does the box spanner fit the rear wheel nut? it's a 26mm one and for some reason I suspect it should be 27mm, the 500 used 26mm so it could be the same.
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I have a tool kit and the C spanner is different in that and I think its a correct collection. I might have a spare handle as well I think, I'm in there tmrw and I'll have a look for you. ;)
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What are those huge rubbery looking things in the box in front of the tail lamp?
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Rear wheel cush drive rubbers Ted..
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Motad, yep closed a little while back, someone on here was a manager there too.
Seems they also made the Yoshimura pipes sold in UK by Dixon racing of Godalming in contemporary times.
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Rear wheel cush drive rubbers Ted..
Not dismantled my rear wheel yet - they look huge compared to the 400 bushes might be the camera angle!
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No, they are big Ted......and a snug fit when new!
Gary I have a set of good headers in black that have been craply welded onto a crap can by the previous gorilla, They're in not bad nick and would come up but in a conveluted sort of way, if you fancied a challenge. If there's enough meat on that collector and you fancy a head scratch you can have them mate and try and make a good set out of the two??
Quite a task and I dont know what youre left with on those but just a thought.....
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Thanks for the offer Roo, seems a bit beyond my skill set. Ill keep it in mind.
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no worries pal.
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All stripped down now and black bits off to the powder coaters. As is usual there have have been some good news and bad news along the way. Most of the chrome is shot so new rims and mudguards needed. The actual engine is in surprisingly good nick, way better than my last one. I was a bit shocked when I took the sump off and a 10mm cube of steel fell out, turns out to be a dog off 4th gear. Luckily it was heavy enough to sink to the bottom and stay there.[attachimg=1]
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Luckily that gear is the same as the 500 gearbox 4th gear.
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Seen a few 550 with dogs broken but never a 500
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Aye, it’s all that extra power in the 550🫣
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my 500 Lazarus had several broken ones.
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Well all the black bits are back from powder coating, so I can start the rebuild.[attachimg=2]
Trouble is I seem to have accidentally bought another one. Thanks Graham.
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Trouble is I seem to have accidentally bought another one. Thanks Graham.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
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The next project is home, but will just be stored away till the 550 is finished. It came from a great guy called Collin who I have advised to join up on here as he has to give up bikes and has A LOT
of SOHC stuff to get rid off. Including some complete bikes plus loads of hard to get stuff.[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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Liking that, that looks great!
That's a van full of fun and money isn't it? ;D Looks really good, well done, what year is it?
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500 this time eh Gary, well done. By far the best looking of the mid range Hondas of that era.
Reflectors say a K0 model, if so the seat is different than the rest of the 500s.
Good luck with the build.
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Oh, oh, another project.Do them in parallel feckless type😁 Sorry to hear about Colin mind.
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Nice hoard you have there Garry I'm green with envy but devoid of funds for another project atm.
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Gary, I don’t suppose Colin has a 550 F1seat does he?
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Hey, K reg?
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Most likely a US import with a reg corresponding to it's age before DVLA decided to do the 1st Jan thing.
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Gary, I don’t suppose Colin has a 550 F1seat does he?
Sorry, dont know. Hopefully he will sign up and make his stuff available.
I dont know the guy personally, but Ill message him to remind him of the forum.
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The dating service from the VJMC says its a 1971 CB 500 for general export, no mention of model.
When the previous owner bought it it had a k reg plate but when he applied for a V5 the DVLA said they had no record of it and issued a new J reg plate.
The V5 now states "declared manufactured 1971, former keepers 0.
Getting it back to standard will be a massive money pit so this will probably be the mild custom Ive been threatening to do.
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That’s a van full of treasure bud. What a great starting point for a great build. You should be chuffed with that
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That’s a van full of treasure bud. What a great starting point for a great build. You should be chuffed with that
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Cheers Roo, it does seem a good starting point but as you know its not all plain sailing. Still, what else would we be doing. :)
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Quite!
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Most likely a US import with a reg corresponding to it's age before DVLA decided to do the 1st Jan thing.
What would identify it as us import?
Seller really thought it was originally UK bike. Not that it matters to me, they are all imports.
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Or as I maintain….all Japanese exports. The UK registration stuff is bullshit as far as I’m concerned. Do we really need to be obsessed with vin plate position and the right number plate holder? 5 pints of landlords says no.
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On the other hand:
It's good to see yet another 500 will be appearing here soon. If it is a 1971 500 then it is almost certain to be an import via Europe. If it has a VIN label on the headstock it will be from the US. But as you say they are all from Japan anyway and only us nerds can tell the differences.
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Agreed. IMHO any and all restos are of equal importance and satisfaction, especially and most importantly to the restorer. I salute you all….
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Oh, I forgot about the the indicator size…very important that…😳
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Or as I maintain….all Japanese exports. The UK registration stuff is bullshit as far as I’m concerned. Do we really need to be obsessed with vin plate position and the right number plate holder? 5 pints of landlords says no.
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The next project is home, but will just be stored away till the 550 is finished. It came from a great guy called Collin who I have advised to join up on here as he has to give up bikes and has A LOT
of SOHC stuff to get rid off. Including some complete bikes plus loads of hard to get stuff. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Lucky you looked at the email i sent you ;)
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The next project is home, but will just be stored away till the 550 is finished. It came from a great guy called Collin who I have advised to join up on here as he has to give up bikes and has A LOT
of SOHC stuff to get rid off. Including some complete bikes plus loads of hard to get stuff. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Lucky you looked at the email i sent you ;)
Yes I think it was lucky, the wife not so much ;D But thanks.
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First of all apologies to Julie for stealing her picture, but can you tell me where this goes. I know its to do with the coils but cant remember what it does and the parts diagram doesn't[attachimg=1] help much.
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First of all apologies to Julie for stealing her picture, but can you tell me where this goes. I know its to do with the coils but cant remember what it does and the parts diagram doesn't (Attachment Link) help much.
It slides over the seam at the front of the coils where the coils bolt to the frame Gary.
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IIR it's also the earthing point for the loom.
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Can I enquire as to whether that part specific to the 500 models only as my 77 550 F2 doesn’t have one. Unless it’s a parts manual oversight/error and I can’t remember removing one.
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OK got it, thanks.
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Can I enquire as to whether that part specific to the 500 models only as my 77 550 F2 doesn’t have one. Unless it’s a parts manual oversight/error and I can’t remember removing one.
Its a 550f1 Im working on now. The 500 I did earlier did not have one.
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That’s interesting as the CMNSL fiche doesn’t show one for the 550F2, but is does for the 500 and 550 F1.
Must be a weight saving measure😀😁
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Not a part I recognise on my 500.
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Item 11, Ted.
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Does it attach to the coil bolt that goes through the frame then some sort of guide to keep the loom in the right place?
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Nope never seen one of them, no reference to it on the F2 fiche and I can’t tell what you’re pointing at on that piccy Phil, number 11 looks like the ignition switch or somming, had a wire coming out of it anyway.
So what does it do then?
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Sorry, item 17. All thumbs this am.
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I read the 17 as 11.😁😁😁
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I have no idea. Definitely not a requirement for our high performance F2 variants……Super Sports…..😁
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I think it's got something to do with increasing the surface area of one of the earthing points.
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In the 500 K1 parts book its item 19 described as - Protector ignition coil wire.
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I have no idea. Definitely not a requirement for our high performance F2 variants……Super Sports…..😁
Deffer's ;D
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I think it's got something to do with increasing the surface area of one of the earthing points.
AAAaaahhh!
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In the 500 K1 parts book its item 19 described as - Protector ignition coil wire.
Yes, same description for the F1 item 17.
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It looks to me like a guide for one of the leads. If so, what is it guiding it to or keeping it away from?
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It doesn't guide anything. I think it protects the coil wires from the sharp edge of the frame seam.
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Next issue is the indicators seem to be to fast and both idiot lights flash whether left or right is on. Any ideas ?
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Check yer earths Gary..........all nice and clean and together as should be? You'll know this but they'll flash like crazy if there's a bulb/connection incomplete somewhere, are they all working? How bad is the flasher unit, is it in reasonable nick?
Might be the switch but check those bits first is where I'd start.
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Check yer earths Gary..........all nice and clean and together as should be? You'll know this but they'll flash like crazy if there's a bulb/connection incomplete somewhere, are they all working? How bad is the flasher unit, is it in reasonable nick?
Might be the switch but check those bits first is where I'd start.
Flasher looks and sounds good, Im off to recheck earths, switch should be good every thing worked when I bought it. Could it be DS indicators?
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doubt it, do they all test ok and light up? there's hardly anything to go wrong its only a glorified bulb holder really?
The fact that youre getting flashing idiot lights, I would think, smells of an earth issue, bit like the old fiesta's and peugeot's that when the connectors on the boot lid got dirty it would make all sorts flasj on the tail gate flash when you put the indicators on at the back. Plus its the easiest cash free diagnosis which is always the forst point of call for me.
Cillet Bang (however you spell it) kitchen cleaner is ace for cleaning the bullet connectors if they're grubby, bob a bit in a jar and warm slightly and use that, they come up like new. (that's not my idea, one of Julie's I think) works a treat. As does wire wool obvs ;D ;)
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Can also happen with a faulty new bulb used to be common with stop & tail light bulbs - weird how circuits find other ways to earth.
On my 400 I fitted earth wires to all four indicators to ensure a good earth all round.
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Same here Ted. a bit easier too for aguarenteed outcome.
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Can I enquire as to whether that part specific to the 500 models only as my 77 550 F2 doesn’t have one. Unless it’s a parts manual oversight/error and I can’t remember removing one.
The parts book doesn't show it but why it doesn't have it is beyond me, both bikes are to all intents and purposes identical in the need for one. Can't hurt to fit one I suppose.
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GOT IT, dodgy bullet connector. Thanks all, nearly chucked it in the dyke >:(
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Sweeeet! I like it when the issues yield without too much outlay of time n money
Skills mate
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Can anybody tell me how to check the clutch switch, should there be continuity with the leaver pulled in or out. Ive got neither so the switch could be knackered.
Can it be disabled or by bypassed ?
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Clutch switch closes on operation, so continuity with lever pulled in. Yes you could link out the connections, but then you risk starting the bike in gear! It’s better to leave it open circuit so you can only start in neutral?
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Or even better, just replace it if it can’t be coaxed into action.
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Cheap copies are about £7, oem about £15-19.
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I bought a switch on e-bay for my 400 it worked fine just had to file a bit off the finger end to make it perfect cost me a heady £6 from this firm.
Mine was missing.
.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300184704803
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Or, for a CB550…
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OK, Thanks guys. I thought the switch was integral to the lever so it all had to be replaced, does it just pull out?
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After you take the lever off yes. When fitting you put the wires through the hole from lever side and pull in so goes out opposite way
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Grease the hole before you pull the new switch into place, there is a small tang on the new switch, this should go towards the adjuster.
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All sorted re clutch switch, thanks. Can anyone enlighten me as to which bolt the rear brake light switch bracket is held on by.
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On the 550 it's the upper rear hanger bolt. The 10mm one.
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On the 550 it's the upper rear hanger bolt. The 10mm one.
OK, Thats about the only one it can be, but it just dont look right. It puts the switch at an angle, or seems to. Ill fit it, maybe just the way Im holding it.
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Exactly what I thought when I fitted mine, looks a bit 'shonky' doesnt it and not very 'Honda like'?
The spring sits at at a weird angle too doesnt it?
If so, thats right bud ;) :D
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230328/0d869cb9bb1cfb37db15a9a855705759.jpg)
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Cheers Roo, a pictures worth a thousand words.
And "un honda like" is exactly what I thought.
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If it bothered you a couple of plastic wedge washers might make it look neater?
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Tried all the fiddling possible Ted, it fits how it fits sadly.
As I mentioned before, not great from the ‘big Wing’ but as long as my OCDometer doesn’t look, I can handle it being like that
At least the bugger works now, mine was stuck solid when I got the bike. (Term ‘bike’ used in the broadest possibly way, should read, ‘boat anchor’)
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If it bothered you a couple of plastic wedge washers might make it look neater?
No, it don't bother me. I just thought I was doing it wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.
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Which is why I asked at the time too, Gary.I take it you're sorted though, cool beans
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Yes Roo all sorted, ta.
Just another thousand issues to sort, you know the drill.
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Oh yes, but that’s why we do it. Giant air fix kits that you can ride afterwards…….worth it
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Some progress pics. First time lacing wheels was a steep learning curve, but easy when it all "clicks".
Corse the budget is under strain so Im going with a used motad instead of new delkevic to save some cash.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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https://www.flickr.com/cameraroll
Im stugling with uploading photos, so if any wants to see where Im at, its here.
Chain on tomorrow and tootle up and down the drive.
Still away to go but getting there.
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The link does not work for me as it just logs me into my own pics. Are you using the BBCode to copy and paste pics here here?
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Im just not great with this stuff, Ill try again.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52815348181_3f829ee789.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ot7sXp)IMG_0092 (https://flic.kr/p/2ot7sXp) by gary mound (https://www.flickr.com/photos/198094849@N07/), on Flickr
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Nice photo but can't click on it to zoom as you have the picture as private not public - still the photo here looks good.
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Looking good Gary! Obviously would like to scrutinise by zooming in.😜
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Try again, think ive fixed it.
Maybe, shit, this is harder than building the bike.
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Thanks Gary! Enjoyed the closer look just to admire. Good work!
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That's it Gary - zoom and your public photo stream works.
Looks a very tidy 550.
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What's wrong with the grab rail and the seat Gary, the rail is supposed to be behind the seat, with the 550F having a longer seat than the 500 I suspect the grab rail is off a 500 or a 550K1/2. To me it looks to be skewing the seat and the seat lock doesn't engage properly as a result. The 550F grab rail sits much higher as well.
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Your right its the wrong grab rail, but it doesnt impact the seat at all.
The seat currently fitted is an after market one with plastic base, no idea what its off.
Im still thinking about how much more I want to spend on it before committing to respray, seat rail etc.
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She looks great Gary,well done mate ;)
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I can spot a couple of things that are not correct Gary and normally I'd just say nothing as it can sound like I'm criticising but one may mean trouble in the future so I thought it best to say something. The bolt holding the gearchange lever on is a 20mm chrome headed bolt with flat washer fitted, you've got a JIS screw in there, you can't really get enough clamping power with a screw like that and if it's not tight there is a strong possibility of the splines rounding off in the future, this can either mean a new gearchange lever or a new gearchange rod, lever not a huge problem, rod means all the clutch housing off.
The points cover should also have raised countersunk 6 x 32 chrome headed JIS screws fitted not normal JIS screws, the dish will start to distort after a while if left as it is, not a huge problem but one that I thought I might as well point out.
Try these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255404602515?hash=item3b774cf493:g:pGMAAOSwEOtiGKo9&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIJS%2BI7Txlmrlfaot5fPKLDaKDPT8Ne3zL1nhp5nwW4rxf42YATctLyzoFSkbp%2FHVJ8Wt%2FHBWwS0qAtAISpE2whIUzfY8SdSlTLMGdqq0mbauglJxrYWCmVIXJxXImzpSssHfPe07MGGpWUD%2Bbk2nmT54wAm79LnIz8lPDg4wqyFYtrYoOL8EOP9oWMolg6Eb9Y4OJh4aFKkBJtTziYW493obqrRRQyr0Zw%2F9p83Muax4skO8OoRAxvNOIPCRRUFQpTLi4br8DjYrNt02QkJtnLetpyU3TKOVnQG932khWe7vCkqyPRg51hI8hJFJTMCIhMClMEoHvR7m2F8Pdjywvk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yZ8tfwYQ
Looks like the rear brake lever has some damage, I have one NOS one left if your interested.
I have a spare 20mm polished stainless steel bolt and flat washer if you need one, no charge. It's what I fit to mine, looks original and stays that way, unlike the original bolt.
No starter cover yet?
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I've taken onboard both those comments Ken for when I reach assembly on my 500 - the point about using a bolt rather than a JIS screw is a good one - I have the chrome bolt but might change it to SS.
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I can spot a couple of things that are not correct Gary and normally I'd just say nothing as it can sound like I'm criticising but one may mean trouble in the future so I thought it best to say something. The bolt holding the gearchange lever on is a 20mm chrome headed bolt with flat washer fitted, you've got a JIS screw in there, you can't really get enough clamping power with a screw like that and if it's not tight there is a strong possibility of the splines rounding off in the future, this can either mean a new gearchange lever or a new gearchange rod, lever not a huge problem, rod means all the clutch housing off.
The points cover should also have raised countersunk 6 x 32 chrome headed JIS screws fitted not normal JIS screws, the dish will start to distort after a while if left as it is, not a huge problem but one that I thought I might as well point out.
Try these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255404602515?hash=item3b774cf493:g:pGMAAOSwEOtiGKo9&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAIJS%2BI7Txlmrlfaot5fPKLDaKDPT8Ne3zL1nhp5nwW4rxf42YATctLyzoFSkbp%2FHVJ8Wt%2FHBWwS0qAtAISpE2whIUzfY8SdSlTLMGdqq0mbauglJxrYWCmVIXJxXImzpSssHfPe07MGGpWUD%2Bbk2nmT54wAm79LnIz8lPDg4wqyFYtrYoOL8EOP9oWMolg6Eb9Y4OJh4aFKkBJtTziYW493obqrRRQyr0Zw%2F9p83Muax4skO8OoRAxvNOIPCRRUFQpTLi4br8DjYrNt02QkJtnLetpyU3TKOVnQG932khWe7vCkqyPRg51hI8hJFJTMCIhMClMEoHvR7m2F8Pdjywvk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-yZ8tfwYQ
Looks like the rear brake lever has some damage, I have one NOS one left if your interested.
I have a spare 20mm polished stainless steel bolt and flat washer if you need one, no charge. It's what I fit to mine, looks original and stays that way, unlike the original bolt.
No starter cover yet?
Hi OJ, all fair comments. I have bolt for gear change lever, so Ill sort that.
Points cover screws are in the garage, somewhere.
Would you pm me a price for the brake lever please.
Did a bit of work on her today, balanced carbs, cam chain tension had "settled" a bit, tweaked pilot screws and found ignition on 2/3 a knats off. that tiny nudge on the timing made a huge difference. Seems to be running nicely now.
Ive put more pics on flikr and realised the points cover is upside-down.
What do you think of the rear mudguard. (or do we say fender now)
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Fender is less typing. 👍👍👍
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Fender is American so no we don't say that, we have far too many of their terms creeping into what is OUR language, I don't want to encourage anymore. Before long we'll be ok spelling colour as color.
Rear mudguard looks fine, the left side of the bike actually looks better than the right, the chain guard has chromed well.
Pedal is £80 plus £5 P&P, if you want it Gary. CMS want around £140 for the same thing.
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Fender is American so no we don't say that, we have far too many of their terms creeping into what is OUR language, I don't want to encourage anymore. Before long we'll be ok spelling colour as color.
Rear mudguard looks fine, the left side of the bike actually looks better than the right, the chain guard has chromed well.
Pedal is £80 plus £5 P&P, if you want it Gary. CMS want around £140 for the same thing.
The rear mudguard is black grp so I expected some comments on that, but maybe it not clear enough in the pic.
Re the pedal, I was thinking of getting it for my next project, but have since realised it wont go on a 500. That is a true bargain though, thanks for the offer.