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Messages - Trigger
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 498
31
« on: September 11, 2023, 11:37:10 PM »
32
« on: September 11, 2023, 11:33:08 PM »
Looks great mate. Welcome to the tiddler club 
33
« on: September 11, 2023, 09:25:28 PM »
The eyes lie to people that don't know what to look for but, measuring up is the only way to get a accurate measurement. I would never build a customers engine and assume that it looks OK 
34
« on: September 11, 2023, 09:21:54 PM »
UPDATE:
I now have bike sorted.
My mechanic ( now ex-mechanic) installed the new regulator/rectifier incorrectly, in fact he did not install the one I gave him at all, he used a rectifier he had in stock but still managed to wire it up incorrectly.
I got an auto spark who sorted it.
I took bike for a 25 mile run and then using an IF temperature gun, I measured the following temps.:
Fins ; 120 oc
Stator/Rotor side casing 72 oc
electronic ignition side casing 68 oc.
This all seems normal.
Bike is running really well, I have to install the spring on the choke rod for the carb yet.
I can get bike easily up to 80 mph but not much there after.
Idle sitting at 1200 rpm.
Thanks for all your help
Brian
Many cowboys about that think they know what they are doing is correct Next time you take the bike out rev to 7000 rpm and change gear at those revs and see if it is still sluggish. If you are still struggling to get it past 80 mph, have a look at your float height's to check that you are getting enough fuel.
35
« on: September 11, 2023, 09:13:28 PM »
You can not go by crank markings as, the markings are for a new crank and not a worn one. Everything needs to be measured and matched. All con rods have a weight in grams and must match and that goes for pistons also
36
« on: September 11, 2023, 07:35:17 AM »
37
« on: September 10, 2023, 11:40:00 PM »
A lot of Honda head gaskets have two different thickness. You have the old asbestos type and the non asbestos which are the thicker type. Always measure up what you have and work out what o'rings are needed for a good seal
38
« on: September 10, 2023, 11:33:05 PM »
I would strip the crank down to clean out all the traps as that sealant gets everywhere. Once all cleaned, plasti to see if any of the shells are worn. If it is to spec, you should be good to go with the crank and rods
39
« on: September 10, 2023, 11:28:00 PM »
Every 550 F1/F2 i have owned has had the hex head rear wheel spindle. The shaft is too thick for a 400/4.
Not sure about if the late 750's shared the same shaft mate.
400/4 = the 312 part I showed 1st pic of mate ... originally a SL350 twin part.
Must of used a 393 spindle mate. Cheers for the info
40
« on: September 10, 2023, 11:25:25 PM »
managed to put on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOScVJ4W2fs
Little advise Mick, take a tappet cover of number 1 as well, to see you have oil on both sides. Sounds like a sweet running engine.
41
« on: September 10, 2023, 11:22:02 PM »
Defiantly had a respray as the tank strips are too close to the badges You must look past the bling and make sure it has all it's correct parts fitted.
42
« on: September 10, 2023, 05:15:59 PM »
Great result Mick
43
« on: September 10, 2023, 02:36:15 PM »
Welcome to the mad world of the SOHC, enjoy
44
« on: September 10, 2023, 02:33:16 PM »
Gear box dogs look fine. I would plasti up the shells as long as you run your finger nail across the crank journals and don't feel any grooves
45
« on: September 10, 2023, 02:29:16 PM »
Every 550 F1/F2 i have owned has had the hex head rear wheel spindle. The shaft is too thick for a 400/4.
Not sure about if the late 750's shared the same shaft mate.
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