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Messages - Oddjob
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3301
« on: August 14, 2022, 01:57:27 PM »
Probably Bryan, I know what I meant though  If you ever see Snap On vans in Oz maybe just stop and ask if he has one onboard. If not you can get them to order one.
3302
« on: August 14, 2022, 11:47:26 AM »
Can't exactly remember but could the C spanner be for tappet adjustment. I had a Snap On set of feeler gauges for when I was in the trade, the beauty of them was the feelers could be replaced when you either broke them or as often happened they went into a curl. I bought quite a few spare blades for when that happened and still have them. They are marked both thou and mm. They look almost the same (if not the same) as the Honda one in the kit. Can't remember exactly but is 0.8mm 3 thou? and 0.5mm 2 thou? I bought quite a few of those sizes as they were common back in the day for tappets so I've most likely still got a couple left. Just found them and I've bought a shed load of 4 and 6 thou, probably because the 250N and 400N used that size. No 2 or 3 thou left and even my set is missing the 2 thou blade. Must fix that. Saying that I also found a set of blades I bought off Ebay recently that has removable blades, maybe something like that would be ok for you. https://shop.snapon.com/product/Feeler-Gauges%2C-Bent-and-Step-Ground-Blades/0.030%22-(0.762-mm)-Flat-3%22-Feeler-Gage-Blade/FB1B030
3303
« on: August 14, 2022, 11:39:41 AM »
Yes please Jon.
3304
« on: August 14, 2022, 11:39:28 AM »
I'll take that Jon as well as the clutch cable
3305
« on: August 13, 2022, 11:29:32 PM »
Bit late to say this Mick but ALWAYS do a dry run changing gears when it's still in the top case, do the screwdriver trick and you can not only make sure all the gears select but also you can watch the gears engaging and spot any problems.
3306
« on: August 13, 2022, 11:26:44 PM »
AFAIK the R clip idea is one of mine, I've certainly never heard of it being suggested by anyone else.
3307
« on: August 13, 2022, 06:17:21 PM »
If you can see any of the lugs protruding through the frame rubbers couldn't you drill a small hole in the top 2 and fit a R split pin so you can remove them by lifting the seat. If they go to remove them it shouldn't allow it (also stops you accidentally loosing one whilst riding) and if they force it they'll break the lugs off thus making them useless to them.
3308
« on: August 13, 2022, 06:14:22 PM »
So size stated, can you read the size on the top of the seal?
3309
« on: August 13, 2022, 06:13:16 PM »
Remove the gearchange shaft, get a screwdriver and fit it into the screw on the end of the gearchange drum. Whilst rotating the clutch shaft turn the screwdriver and see if it goes up and down ok using just that method. If it does, it's either the pins in the drum which the gearchange shaft engages onto or the shaft itself. If it doesn't it's not the gearchange shaft so you can eliminate that.
Did you assemble the engine in the top case or the bottom case?
3310
« on: August 13, 2022, 01:38:58 PM »
The problem with plastigauge is that whilst it does show if there is wear it can't tell you what is worn, is it the crank?, is it the shell?. The only way to get a definitive answer is to use plastigauge with new shells. That way you see what the clearance is and can calculate what colour shell you need (if any) to get back within spec. However if you use plastigauge with old shells and they still show the clearance within spec then at least your mind is at rest.
As for the journal with the damaged shell. See if you can find another green in any of the other journals, temporarily replace the damaged one with another green from another journal, measure the clearance, if still in spec then you're good to go with buying just one shell. If none of the other journals show colour on the shells then find one with the same production markings as it's bound to be another green, same bin, same batch, same colour etc
3311
« on: August 13, 2022, 12:21:22 PM »
Can you still read the markings on the new seal? be interested to see what they are and you can check them against the Honda specs to see if they match. Not keen on that gap TBH.
3312
« on: August 13, 2022, 12:15:51 PM »
Yep, that's a green. You could just buy 1 shell, ideally you'd buy 2 but TBH you really only do that because you're replacing both due to wear, you're not, it's due to damage and you could just replace the one.
I just found my odd 750 shell and it's a brown conrod shell.
3313
« on: August 12, 2022, 04:23:53 PM »
You can try but if it doesn't move don't force it. A really good stud extractor is generally essential, the 2 nut trick doesn't normally work.
I may have a decent stud lying around.
3314
« on: August 12, 2022, 04:22:23 PM »
Check all the bearings for colours, if removing put them back in exactly the same place. I don't normally advise this BUT if one of the bearings still has a remnant of the colour on it check the back of the shell for production codes. As they would have been fitted in the factory from a bin of shells they'd all be the same code, if you can find a shell with say green on it and it's marked say D7E-S and your mystery shell is also marked D7E-S then your mystery shell would also be a green. Generally production marks are useless but in your case they might just be a life saver.
3315
« on: August 12, 2022, 01:47:44 PM »
Still not keen on that front stud near the camchain tunnel Mick, will it come out?
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