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Messages - the-chauffeur

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31
SOHC Singles & Twins / Re: Honda XL350 K0 - spoke nipple sizes
« on: December 12, 2019, 12:13:17 PM »
Thanks Bryan

Turns out the measurement I was looking for is the diameter of the tubular section of the nipple that's the transition from immediately below the cap down to the squared/flat section(s).

Mine measured out at around 7mm, which translates to 0.275in.

32
SOHC Singles & Twins / Honda XL350 K0 - spoke nipple sizes
« on: December 11, 2019, 05:10:01 PM »
How do

Looking for a little help/advice. I'll apologise now for my ignorance of the subject matter  ::)

I've sent a set of spokes for an XL350 to a spoke manufacturer to get stainless copies made. Replicating the spokes is no problem, but I've also asked them to supply nipples, and they've come back with the question what size do you need? I have no idea 'cos I didn't realise that was a thing.

I'm told they have four variations - 225/250/275/300 - which is an imperial (or American, depending) measurement . . . as a metric person I don't really understand what that means. They've also tried to tell me how to measure them, and it's something to do with the sloping section under the head, but again, I'm struggling to understand exactly where/how. The only way I can visualise what they were describing was the distance from the seam of the head to the point where it turns into square section . . .

I've had a look I can't find any good guides online or numbers that I can give the manufacturer and sound like I know what I'm talking about.  I could send them samples, but before I do that, has anyone got any suggestions as to what I should be asking for or any hints on how to measure the ones I took off the bike?

If you've made it this far, well done . . . and thanks

33
CB750 / Re: CB750 K2 bottom yoke - I don't think mine's standard . . .
« on: November 29, 2019, 12:59:58 PM »

Can't find a thumbs up emoji . . .

Thanks again.  Yip, that's what mine looks like.

On the subject of rivets, am I right in thinking I should be looking for drill screws to replace that kind of rivet with?  I've got a similar issue with the VIN plates, insofar as I'm not sure what type of rivet to use to replace the ones that have been drilled out (for frame powdercoating).  And any pointers on sources would be really helpful 'cos I can't find any that can be easily had in the UK.

34
CB750 / Re: CB750 K2 bottom yoke - I don't think mine's standard . . .
« on: November 28, 2019, 08:23:51 PM »

Oh wow - thanks - that's really helpful.   

Yeah - mine's one of the late versions; the keyhole looks right and so does the cover plate.  I've never seen what it looks like out of the housing.

So that raises another question . . . given that it's not a standard size/shape - and short of taking the bike to a locksmith - is there any way of finding what key will fit?  The front section is so small I can't see any stamps on it (unlike the earlier versions where the key number is usually legible).

Thanks again.

35
CB750 / CB750 K2 bottom yoke - I don't think mine's standard . . .
« on: November 28, 2019, 07:09:03 PM »

How do all.

I have a somewhat peculiar question - were there any 750 models with lower yokes that came with steering locks that differ from the standard Honda removable lock barrel set-ups?  I have a feeling I already know the answer, but . . .

 . . . here's why.  My bike was a mongrel before I got it.  Whilst it hadn't been cut up, it had been <ahem> transformed into a very scruffy cafe racer.  Fortunately, nothing that was done to it couldn't be undone and over time I've returned it to pretty much what it should look like.  The forks and yokes are the ones that came with the bike and as far as I know, the top yoke is from a K2. 

The bike came with an ignition key and a seat key, but something I never really paid a lot of attention to was the steering lock, principally because it looks like it takes a much smaller key than the others, and that key was/is missing.  But now I think about it, nothing about the lock is the same as the Honda style; the keyhole is very much smaller than standard, the barrel is (so far as I can tell) fixed into the mount, the mount itself is oval when viewed from head on (as opposed to round) and the lock cover/flap is directly attached to the lock mount   
 
And that has led me to the conclusion that the lower yoke probably isn't from a K2, or maybe even from a Honda at all.  Annoyingly it's too dark and miserable - not to mention too strange an angle - to photograph right now, so rather than ask anyone to speculate on whether it's from another make altogether, I'll just repeat the question were there any 750 models with lower yokes that came with steering locks that differ from the standard Honda removable lock barrel set-ups? 

It's all a bit strange.  I'll try to get pictures up as soon as I can. 

36
Misc / Open / Re: Slight modification to ASH's Ignition coil fix
« on: October 14, 2019, 10:34:44 PM »

If you don't much fancy chopping the wires out of the coils, I've found that the same mix of isopropyl alcohol to wintergreen (ratio 3:1) that folks on YouTube recommend to put life back into hardened rubber parts will rejuvinate the HT leads surprisingly well. 

I'm in the middle of a CA77 rebuild and as you can imagine, the 50+ year old coil leads were very, very inflexible.  I took a length of 22mm pipe, plugged one end, filled it with the alcohol/'green mix, coaxed the brittle leads into the open end and left it standing for about a week.  The great thing about that method is that it takes up no space - and it uses very little juice.  During that time, the mix penetrated the cable outers and put a fair amount of flex back into them - and something about that mix keeps the rubber supple long after treatment.  I'm confident I'll be able to easily reroute the leads when the bike starts going back together in a few weeks' time.  I've also got a much shorter length lead from an XL350 sitting in a jamjar of the stuff while that gets torn down.

Admittedly it's not an option for everyone; the leads will never return to the way they were when they were new, and it's no substitute when the outers have frayed or cracked.  But I thought I'd mention it as a non-invasive option that might help those who, like me, find chopping into coils a little bit daunting.

37
CB500/550 / Re: 500 steering lock
« on: October 11, 2019, 03:54:31 PM »

I've removed locks with the use of brute force - more by accident than design - but it's not something I'd recommend.  The frame metalwork that holds the lock barrel in place is quite easy to bend and doesn't need to be bent far.  As you'll know, the pin that acts as the lock isn't very tall and all that needs to happen is for the metal mount to be bent far enough out to allow the assembly to be pulled past it.  Bending it back into shape is pretty straightforward . . . assuming you haven't snapped something important in the process.  I've learned since then that the best way is to check each lock for the key number and then find/buy the right key.  It's a hell of a lot easier that way. 

Having said that, my '750 K2 has a steering lock type that I've not seen on any other Honda of the period.  It takes a much smaller key (and one I don't have) than the usual locks and it has no number.  I've been meaning to ask here if it's right or not or whether anyone recognises it.  When I got the bike, it was a bit of a shed and I have no idea how much was still original.  The forks and yokes look right, but like I say the lock is . . . well . . . different.

38
Recommended Sources for Parts and Services / Re: NOS Honda precut keys
« on: October 03, 2019, 10:17:16 PM »

Cool.  Had to do the same a while back.

Not the biggest selection, and not particularly well signposted on the site, but Silvers hold a fair few keys this side of the pond.   Got me out of trouble with a couple of steering lock keys.

39
Just thought I'd update something in this thread for the benefit of future generations . . .

 . . . Honda in the UK will now provide proof of year of manufacture for its bikes that were originally sold outside the UK.  I know 'cos they've just done one for me.  As long as they can trace the bike back to the factory it was assembled in, they'll supply a dating certificate.  Current charge is £30.

Looking at the e-mail address (certificateofconformity@honda-eu.com), I'm pretty sure those requests dealt with by the same department you need to contact if you want a certificate of conformity to apply for an exemption to the ULEZ in London.  From what I've heard, they'll only supply those certificates for bikes made after the year 2000 (roughly the same time much of their range became fuel injected).

40
New Member Introductions / Re: CB77E
« on: September 24, 2019, 10:50:23 PM »

I'm guessing the OP is probably asking the same questions I found myself asking - what's the point of/reason behind the special nut that appears to be used on the underside of the C/CA/CB/CL77 crankcase, where exactly does it fit and why's there only one of them?

If you look at the left hand side of the engine with the cover off, you'll see an opening for an oil galley on the bottom edge.  This is an image of the left side bottom case half (upside down); the galley opening I'm talking about is the elongated D shape:


Directly above it is a hole for one of the large case studs and to the left of that (in this image) is a hole for one of the smaller case studs.  The nut - together with a sealing (copper) washer - goes on that stud.  The reason it's there is to prevent leaks from the oil galley, and there's only one because there's only one stud that goes directly through an oil galley.

As anyone familiar with those engines knows, they were over-engineered because they were made at a time when Honda was getting to grips with moving to new markets (America in particular) and refining its industrial manufacturing processes.  Rather than take chances with oil leaks, Honda took a belt-and-braces approach with the sealing washer and cap nut.  And if you look at later bikes, it subsequently redesigned the engine cases in such a way that they didn't have any studs penetrating lower cases, eliminating the need for special parts.

Hope that helps - and welcome.

41
CB500/550 / Re: Still Running like a dog!!!
« on: August 31, 2019, 03:52:23 PM »

Apologies for blundering in here but I've got a couple of suggestions that I don't think have been mentioned yet.  They're both a bit left field, but given how frustrating this can be, I thought I'd chuck them in for good measure . . .

 . . . first, I'll apologise for not being familiar with the Boyer kit, but when you say it comes with a rotor, is that a replacement for the spark advancer cam mechanism or is it the whole mechanism that's replaced?  I ask because if it's the former, you might want to check the springs on the spark advancer bob weights.  If one has lost some of its tension it'll flick out at inappropriate times - especially at idle - and you'll experience symptoms not dissimilar to those you're seeing.

The second is more dramatic and hopefully a very, very rare thing, but check then end the rotor is mounted to for deflection/out of round.  Get your guy to put a dial gauge on the crankshaft end, turn the engine over very slowly and check for round or play.  Again, if it's out you'll get some funny running and like I say, it's a bit out there . . . but it won't take five minutes to check when set up.

I can't take credit for any of this stuff.  I learned the first one the hard way over the course of about 8 years working on and off on a project - it drove me the same kind of nuts you're experiencing and no mechanic near to me could figure it out either.  Ultimately, Mark Paris (HondaMan on the US site) came to my rescue, and the crank suggestion came from reading his book.

Good luck.

42
Misc / Open / Re: Filling in V55/5
« on: August 22, 2019, 08:57:45 PM »

The fact they'd VED'd it kinda threw me a bit 'cos the process has changed quite a lot since I last registered overseas bikes.  Last time, you needed to supply MOT and insurance certificates.  Since neither are required now - and (I assume) the VED checker references the insurance database - I wasn't sure whether the fact that I'd insured both machines on frame numbers would have shown up.  I know the insurers record the frame number in those situations, but I could't remember whether they passed them on to the MIB database.  Either way, I'll update my insurers in the next few days.

And last time out I got a certificate sent ahead of/along with V5 confirming the bike had been given a registration number, which could be used to get plates made up.  Now, the V5 is all you get . . . which makes a whole lot more sense to me.  That process change alone must've saved the DVLA a small fortune.

All very exciting.

43
Misc / Open / Re: Filling in V55/5
« on: August 22, 2019, 05:40:24 PM »

Just had the registration documents through for two '66 bikes that have come in from overseas.  Followed the advice above and was able to supply title documents.  Was only able to send a set of photos for one, but the DVLA processed both applications without any questions.  They've also marked the bikes as being taxed (or whatever the historic equivalent is) until August next year.  One's nearing completion, but quite whether I'll have both on the road by then is another matter . . .

 . . . and if there's room here for a teeny tiny mumblebrag, I've been given a identical letter/consecutive number sequence (i.e. ---689D / ---690D).  Not all that much to get excited about, but I thought it was pretty cool . . .

44
CB500/550 / Re: DSS Aftermarket head gaskets in set
« on: July 20, 2019, 05:13:22 PM »

Hey

This is an issue Mark Paris (Hondaman) has commented on in the past.  His post was about the 750's, but I assume the same situation occurs with other aftermarket kits.  It seems the aftermarket head gaskets are marginally thicker than the originals but either folks use the original size Honda o-rings or the o-rings in the kits are made the same as the originals (rendering them undersized in both cases).  His post explains it better than I can.

I've been in touch with Mark and he's sent me a small supply of the oversized 750 o-rings he mentioned in the post to cure this exact same issue.  Once I'm set up, I'll put a post in the 4sale section to move them out.

Cheers

45
Misc / Open / Re: Filling in V55/5
« on: July 01, 2019, 01:50:51 PM »

It's been a while now since I did mine, but I've had different experiences when it comes to inspections.  I didn't send photos in with the first application, but did include dating cert, MOT and insurance cert.  Even so, the DVLA demanded to inspect that bike, despite it being a fairly common model.  This was at a time when the DVLA still had local offices, so I had to drag the bike down to them for a bloke to spend thirty seconds cross checking the frame and engine numbers.  Not an experience I wanted to repeat . . .

 . . . so with the next two, I sent the same documents with 4 colour images on one sheet of A4; the frame number, the engine number and one of each side (to give context and to confirm colour).  Same basic applications and documents - and no inspections needed on either of those. 

Things have changed since then; the DVLA no longer has local offices, and with the relaxing of the tax/MOT legislation for older vehicles, there's no money in it for them now.  Consequently, I suspect the DVLA want to spend as little time on applications like these as possible now, which is probably why Phil found the process so straightforward.   

For the bikes I'll need to register soon I have the title documents (that's a new one for me), so I'm hoping the process will be equally simple, but I'm still going to submit pictures in the same format as before, just to give the application that extra little shove in the right direction.

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