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Topics - Waggles
1
« on: April 06, 2014, 07:27:17 PM »
Hi all. No real probs with my F1 but have had several blown main fuses. No real clues from when they happened, Once could have been indicators, other times just during running or as i stopped on driveway. Fuses r new, can check stuff with multimeter etc but this takes time. just wondered what most common cause likely to be?
2
« on: January 22, 2014, 09:45:27 AM »
First a disclaimer! I am in no way suggesting anyone should test the limits of adhesion and I have no intentions of changing my somewhat sedate riding style no matter what ( I like to have something in reserve! ) this is purely for interest and my scientific enquiring mind.
I read an article on that there new fangled interweb thingy that stated a modern BMW sports bike ( dunno the model sorry ) had a 'Wet riding' mode which seriously limited engine power available if the lean angle went to 41 degrees or over. This seems scarcely credible to me or is it just that yellow streak of self preservation down my back? I have never measured what angles of lean I use ( maybe I will try that for interest ) but I am willing to bet I don't get near 40 degrees in the dry and in a road test I saw in 'Bike' where they were pushing sports bikes to the limit in the dry the max they managed was 51.
Now I am sure that at angles less than 40 in the wet if I were to be dumb enough to grab a handful I could easily break traction but the above seems to imply that with a feathered throttle you could seriously crank it over in the wet!! I appreciate tyres come into this a lot too and you would never want to 'max' it anyway due to spilt fuel / mud / leaves / manhole covers etc etc but I am just interested in your thoughts and what YOU do in the wet.
I don't fancy the old way of learning: 'Find a wet roundabout and go round it faster and faster til you fall off, then don't do that again'
3
« on: March 18, 2013, 01:05:05 PM »
Dunno if its just me, ( if it is, delete this mods! ) but I have always had trouble adjusting the front brake on my 750 F1, the problem is the pads are in contact with the disk and twiddling the adjuster seems to have little affect. You can remove the front wheel and push the moving piston back into the caliper the pop the wheel back on but you run the risk of displacing brake fluid into the reservoir which can overflow and remove paint from your newly refurbed fork yokes, don't ask me how I know  you could also dismantle brake and temporarily remove moving pad. Found an easier way, loosen the two bolts that hold the calipers together, insert a spacer twixt moving pad caliper and the bracket and nip them up, the moving pad is now clear of the wheel ( as long as you don't forget and put the brake on  ) you can adjust the brake using just the static pad then remove spacer and retighten. For the spacer I used the handle part of the toolkit's C spanner. I would caution against tightening the caliper bolts too much with the spacer in place as you might distort something, just enough to prevent play.
4
« on: March 12, 2013, 07:30:02 AM »
Nice weather huh? could get bike out of garage if I wanted to, and I am in the 'warm south'!
Anyhow, my insurance is due, am currently with the inevitable Carole Nash and they charged me £125 last year, which I though OK (ish) as I had no no claims. This year they want to charge me exactly the same. When I called them they told me their 'Classic' insurance doesn't have no claims discount! ( nice of them to tell me before ) the nice lady told me all policies I would be able to get would be the same, but then she would wouldn't she.
So before I start asking various members of the african rodent population etc etc, who are you guys with? and does anyone get a no claims discount?
5
« on: February 01, 2013, 02:38:43 PM »
Yeah I know, they all do that! but mine is causing the local cat population to stampede and shattering windows within a 5 mile radius.
I have el cheapo brake pads fitted ( dunno make - threw package away but I got them from Wemoto ) and coated the backs with brake copper grease
Anyone had any success in improving this? different pads? shims? cutting grooves? don't use the grease?
I know roughening the pad surface stops it, but only for a little while, and at this rate I will be replacing pads rather more regularly than I had anticipated!
6
« on: October 11, 2012, 11:01:29 AM »
My F1 is bedding down nicely now and is pretty much as I remember the one I had new in '76, but for one thing, I get quite a buzz of vibration through the bars from around 50 mph onwards. Now it could be selective memory but I do remember the bad as well as the good ( like the gearbox that feels like pushing a knife through a bag of marbles at low revs  ) The vibration was enough to make my hands numb after 100 miles if I gripped the bars tightly. Before I go through the tuning and checking of engine mounts etc is this normal and I have just forgotten? I don't remember feeling the need to rubber mount the bars on my original one!
7
« on: October 08, 2012, 11:45:03 AM »
Hi, I want to replace all the filament bulbs ( except headlight obviously ) with LED ones, its the longevity I am after not the power saving really. Has anyone found a proper stop AND tail replacement LED bulb thats OK? All the ones I have seen so far imply they have double contacts and offset pins but are 'single filament equivalents' which implies no stop light function to me, or am I reading it wrong? I am handy enough with a soldering iron and could knock up an LED read light unit but was just hoping not to have to! ( me? the 3rd Earl of Wimburn, lazy? what WERE they thinking )
8
« on: August 31, 2012, 07:10:50 AM »
I have a standard headlight and the bulb just blew ( and its only 36 years old, rubbish I call it ) strangely I have another 70's one I can replace it with for now but don't expect that to last long either. What does everyone else use and where do you get them? I am not after upping wattage, standard will be fine as I won't be doing any dark country lanes and I ride on dipped beam all the time. Haven't actually seem the standard bulbs anywhere so do you have to switch to H4 Halogen?
9
« on: August 28, 2012, 09:31:51 AM »
Took the F1 for its first serious ride over the weekend from Essex to Lincoln and back. She went very well.
The way back was marred by ( yet more ) rain but I had no real problems. Just as I arrived home the heavens absolutely opened and I scared myself rigid when the brakes barely worked ( had no problems up till then ) I go cold when I think of that happening on the A1 !!!
To be fair I was in heavy traffic and only doing 15 - 20 mph, the brakes may have cleared the water had I been going faster ( or perhaps when I applied them ) but its still a worry.
My question is this, what pads do people use? do they wear the disc? should the discs be drilled? if so, is there anyone who can supply replacement drilled discs or can drill mine? ( or can I do it? if so what with? - what sort of drill bit I mean )
10
« on: August 06, 2012, 07:22:58 AM »
Anyone happen to know what size the ikkle screws that hold the points on and the 2-3 timing adjust are? Guess my P.O. got a bit hungry and chewed em a bit, they are useable, ( just ) but I would like to replace them with cheese head ones. ( I have an aversion to cross heads, dunno who thought they were a good idea, seem to be designed to chew up asap ) they don't seem to be listed on parts lists to give me the size, I can measure thread diameter but the pitch looks a bit fine to me.
11
« on: July 30, 2012, 07:35:21 AM »
My F1 stopped dead on the way to work this morning, traced it to a blown 15A fuse, so I replaced it with a nail ( kidding ) no I fitted the spare and all seems fine, no blown bulbs, headlight was on, was only at low revs. Obviously could have been the fuse itself ( it is original 1976! ) and I will be chacking for loose connections, but for those with loads of experience what have you found is the most likely culprit?
12
« on: July 10, 2012, 07:20:15 AM »
At the weekend had to replace my fork oil seals, so what? well they were new, as were the fork tubes so I was seriously forked off.
This is just a word of warning, DONT even bother with pattern seals, when I compared them to the replacement OEM ones they were not the same. Am afraid I can't remember where I got the pattern ones or I would complain to them but it would have been one of the major suppliers
13
« on: June 26, 2012, 07:36:50 AM »
If this is your problem check the connectors where the points wires connect to the loom, its by the rear brake light switch inside a plastic 'boot'. The wires have no spare length and the connectors can be strained and disconnect / come loose.
Consider wiring them together or replacing with longer ones / splicing in a bit of extra length
14
« on: June 19, 2012, 07:13:32 AM »
My bike developed a misfire on the way to work  thought it was going onto reserve but no, that made no difference. All exhausts were hot. tried to 'clear it' by holding higher revs, that didn't work either. I have no doubt I can trace the problem and fix it but my question is, as I have a lunch hour to try and sort it, what are the most likely causes? I am thinking possibly plugs as she has just been commuting with no open road running for a while, if not, probably fuel contamination / blockage. Any more suggestions before lunch?
15
« on: June 12, 2012, 07:25:45 AM »
Looks like I chose the wrong summer to get the bike on the road, is it EVER going to stop raining? even down here in the parched, dry, drout stricken south east!!! I'd sacrifice a virgin but I live in Essex. My F1 thinks its a submarine.
And another thing while I am bitching, why haven't the sizes of waterproof over trousers kept pace with my, er, 'circumferencially challenged' figure?
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