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Topics - JezzaPeach
16
« on: January 09, 2021, 12:52:41 PM »
Hi all, I am pretty impressed with my EBC brake pads but does anyone have any experience of SBS ceramic pads vs semi sintered? Ceramic discs in a performance car/bike is one thing, but wondering about ‘ceramic’ pads on a standard steel disc.
Also any risk to wet braking as my cast discs back in the day were superb in the dry but zero in the wet.
17
« on: October 21, 2020, 07:35:59 AM »
For those that haven’t seen it, there are some wonderful YouTube videos like “Honda RC166 disassembly work” ! (and note the choice of tyres!) 😉
18
« on: September 12, 2020, 08:31:15 AM »
I understood my bike was an import from Italy, and it had the riveted type steering lock (pic attached) which I think is Italian spec which would ring true. The frame starts CB50020407xx which I believe is K1.
The engine starts CB500E21232xx which seems to be K2.
Other than the steering lock clue it doesn’t seem possible to tell country of origin from the honda4fun list but it’s said to be brought from Italy in 2003 after being in storage for some time.
I’m probably misunderstanding but the honda4fun parts list I’ve found does not show the engine CB500E2xxxxxx anywhere other than in the USA K2 list (surely there was a EU/UK K2)
This seems to imply the frame is Italian with a USA K2 engine, but seems more likely an Italian K2 engine if there was one.
Any authoritative answer very welcome.
19
« on: August 12, 2020, 08:54:27 AM »
There is another thread saying that using a H4 headlight bulb can put too much through the 15A fuse if brake and indicator are on at the same time as the headlight.
Have many had this problem?
One suggested solution is use a led tail/brake light.
Can anyone say if there there a spec for a dual tail/brake led bulb or point to one?
On eBay the results are hard to tell if what is listed is single or dual filament.
Finally a source for (one or two, not 10-20) 15A fuses, as my token fuse holder is hard as rock and they won’t come out!
21
« on: July 02, 2020, 09:09:30 PM »
Is anyone aware of a national event to celebrate the 500/4’s 50th anniversary?
I think it’s 2021?
22
« on: July 01, 2020, 04:34:52 PM »
Hi all
Just interested if anyone has used anything like Sta-Bil.
I’m a bit sceptical but after a year or two period of storage, and gummed slides etc, I cleaned my jets etc and put in Sta-Bil, all fine, but then didn’t bother for a while, and had a blockage in #2, which cleared with lots of choke/throttle open, and now I’ve started using it again. It seems to help but interested if anyone has a similar tale which may help others with erratic running.
23
« on: April 16, 2020, 08:22:48 AM »
I was amazed at the cost of oil if you can find a local trade discount store, they are often much cheaper. I bought oil for my CB500/4 from DCS in Leatherhead (Surrey) and it was about half the price I expected to pay, plus it was the smaller amount I needed without the price being disproportionately high.
24
« on: March 28, 2020, 09:15:22 AM »
I would really appreciate pics of where the rear mudguard info and exhaust warning stickers should be positioned. Also the helmet warning transfer for the tank which I’m hoping will be ok (?) for light use without laquering over it. (black or white one on gold tank?) The others are still in place.
Much appreciated. Best wishes.
25
« on: February 24, 2020, 07:20:47 PM »
Any advice on correct connection for DSS coils very welcome.
I’m putting on DSS coils. They have + and - spade terminals and come with a set of leads, yellow and black (I assume to plug on + and - respectively) both going to male bullet connectors. The originals have one male bullet (black and white - negative?) and one female bullet (right coil blue - positive?) (left coil yellow - positive?)
Apart from the above colour queries, I’ll have to get a double ended female adaptor if there is such a thing (?), or cut off and adapt the old ones.
26
« on: February 13, 2020, 09:28:57 AM »
Here we go, the old problem. Is it worth heating the screw head, WD40 etc, and would an impact driver have any effect?
Experiences gratefully received.
27
« on: February 10, 2020, 11:52:50 AM »
Hi has anyone reading this actually pulled the gear shift shaft oil seal out using screws and a puller? - and drifted a new one in?
28
« on: February 09, 2020, 03:13:09 PM »
Hi all, very grateful for any thoughts:
I'm replacing the 3 seals in the drive casing area, and noticed the chain is rubbing on the clutch push rod seal and it's surrounding alloy.
The drive sprocket slides a bit on it's shaft, and the 'play' is 1mm.
I have measured carefully and a steel washer/shim 1mm thick and internal diameter 25mm and about 30mm external diameter should stop or reduce the rubbing. The washer will not be subject to anything spinning on it as it remains relatively fixed on the shaft.
Should the sprocket slide in and out like this and should I just leave it? I suspect this is a common problem?
Also while I'm on, I bought a pair of coils on Ebay whose mountings are too close together so I'm returning them.
Has anyone used DSS coils, do the mounting holes match the original, and is the fitting of the 'substitute' wires fairly obvious as the differ to the original?
I will of course ask DSS the same question when I order.
As always, grateful for any comments from past experiences.
Best wishes.
29
« on: August 31, 2019, 10:57:42 AM »
Hi I missed some posts on the clutch cable route and despite my comments, have found mine uncomfortably stiff on a longer run. Will try taking it round the headstock and report back!
Having said that, if replacing, does anyone know of the best, smoothest, cable to use?
Also while taking off the left cover, I think I’ve seen a comment that the adjuster/actuator cam bits can give less leverage as they wear?
Best J
30
« on: June 09, 2019, 03:06:56 PM »
Hi all. Any thoughts welcome.
I had a vague recollection the pushing the horn button to the right is also a headlight flasher?
Many thanks. J
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