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Messages - archmill
1
« on: May 24, 2022, 09:49:42 PM »
Front wheel off of a 1979 CB750 F2, DID 1.85 x 19 alloy in good condition. Filthy but will clean up good. With twin discs in good condition, spindle and speedo drive. One plastic "honda" rivet cover missing. Came off a bike with 15000 miles on it.
Anyone interested before I put it on Fleabay. Not needed as I am building a special with 17" ZZR600 wheels.
£50 plus postage.
2
« on: March 02, 2020, 07:12:16 PM »
hi, whiteylfc, been in Cyprus, just back yesterday.
Nurse Julie sorted me out with a good used camshaft an a new camchain but I still have to buy the drivechains and tensioner and the camchain tensioner. Got the old ones with only 15 thousand miles on the clock but I may as well go the whole hog and buy new.
3
« on: October 24, 2019, 11:40:50 PM »
Message for Nurse Julie :- interested in the camchain you said you sell, also need primary drive chains and tensioner, camchain tensioner and I am looking for a camshaft
4
« on: October 19, 2019, 07:18:50 PM »
That'll be no soft links then LOL.
Still asking the question re the camshaft. Will any camshaft fit (I realise cam lift and timing are different on different cams). When you are up Sh*t creek without a paddle, even a lollypop stick will get you going
5
« on: October 19, 2019, 09:35:50 AM »
Can I ask, what is the problem with using a soft link in a new chain ? considering the final drive chain is fitted with a soft link.
6
« on: October 16, 2019, 11:15:08 PM »
Help required re camshaft and primary chains.
Started checking out the engine parts prior to a re-build for the cafe racer project, chains for stretch, crank clearances etc. The only reference I can find regarding primary chain stretch is on youtube by "hackaweek" who states that the measurement from the sump flange to the primary tensioner should be no more than 70mm. Mine is measuring 68.5mm, is this O.K ? or time for new chains ?
Regarding the camshaft, I have an R1 which is totally shot. It has four totally different sizes of journals and one of the cam towers has had bronze bushed fitted. I got a set of decent cam towers from Mick some time ago and now need a camshaft. Am I correct in saying that practically any camshaft will fit ?
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
7
« on: March 19, 2018, 09:47:54 PM »
Guy's, I made up my own frame kit in 2012 I think ( posted photo's at the time) and there was quite a bit of interest at the time. Now I've got my own machine shop and have made a few kits which are a lot cheaper than the Gordons kit from USA. Also remember Auntie Theresa will rip you off for import duty and then add VAT and then hold it to randsom with their 'approved carrier' with a fifteen quid delivery charge even after you have paid for delivery when you bought it in the USA. 
8
« on: March 17, 2017, 07:04:09 PM »
9
« on: March 17, 2017, 06:51:27 PM »
I couldn't get the rotor off and just about ruined a three leg puller. Took the crank with the rotor attached to my local bike shop and he got it off with a bit of grunt and bad language using a spider ( looks like a car wheel brace ). No charge.
10
« on: March 17, 2017, 06:45:39 PM »
Far as I know, industry standard is 1thou clearance all round ( 0.025mm ). Using your plastigauge, it pushes the crank away so there is no clearance at one side and double the clearance at the plastigauge. Therefore a standard 1 thou all round clearance should read 2 thou ( 0.05 mm ) with the plastigauge measuring card.
How do I post articles I did for a magazine ( word documents 4.8mb showing how plastigauge works and 4.2mb showing how to select cb750 shells ) ?
11
« on: February 19, 2017, 11:02:34 PM »
P.S. you can't remove the head with the engine in place. I made and fitted a frame kit which allows you to remove a section of frame, them you can remove the head and cylinders.
12
« on: February 19, 2017, 10:59:40 PM »
Bought valves, valve retainer plates, guides and stem seals from cyclex in USA for £260. Adding postage, VAT and auntie Teressa's cut ( import duty ) came to £350. The valve retainer plates are to stop the valve collets pulling through, which is exactly what happened before I got the bike
13
« on: May 28, 2016, 11:27:13 AM »
yozzer74, you have to insulate the cable from the starter motor housing, remember it will be live when you press the starter button and the starter housing is earthed to the engine. Once the new cable is fitted you must check it with a meter to make sure the starter cable touches nothing but the connector inside the started motor. If not, big sparks, quite spectacular LOL
14
« on: May 15, 2016, 11:31:23 AM »
I used 16mm2, 110 AMP. De-soldered the existing cable from the starter motor, filed the internal connection flat with a needle file and replaced it with a button head screw from inside ( 6mm I think ) with a washer and nut on the outside with enough thread to take an eyelet and nut and put an eyelet on the new cable with a rubber boot, therefore no joints from starter solenoid to motor.
Archmill
15
« on: April 11, 2016, 06:25:32 PM »
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