Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: SPR on October 01, 2022, 09:34:56 AM
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So I ordered the bulk 1m fuel pipe to replace the rather old looking ones on the bike - part 950013500160M
Is it me or is it too small both in size and internal diameter ?
Thought I best check before wrestling with fitting !!
Thanks
Simon
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Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.
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Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.
Bugger
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Yes Simon, looks you've ordered the smaller type (3.5mm I think, which is for the float drain bowl tubes) . It's 5.5mm you need.
Bugger
😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
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You are not alone Simon.
Been there done that at the start of my 400 build.
I call it the learing dip! (before the curve)
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You are not alone Simon.
Been there done that at the start of my 400 build.
Such is life :) I'm sure it will come in :)
On the plus side the NOS clutch cable is as smooth as silk ...... downside I seem to have bought 2 ! ::) oh and the clutch bar thing is broken so ofcourse I've bought 2 no NOS ones just in case !!!
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Not sure if this will interest you Simon, but I got Piki to make me some decals for the overflow pipes off the carbs. Same as the ones on the HT leads, this way I can identify at a glance if one starts to leak and which one it is without pulling pipes off or tracing them back up (which isn't always possible) and saves fuel getting on top of the engine when you do pull a pipe off and find the overflowing carb, some engine paint don't like petrol so why risk it.
I would also advise pulling the clutch lifter mechanism apart, the one inside the sprocket case. Check it's intact, especially under the seal, they do get cracked, inspect the ball bearing for roundness, clean it up and regrease liberally.
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Not sure if this will interest you Simon, but I got Piki to make me some decals for the overflow pipes off the carbs. Same as the ones on the HT leads, this way I can identify at a glance if one starts to leak and which one it is without pulling pipes off or tracing them back up (which isn't always possible) and saves fuel getting on top of the engine when you do pull a pipe off and find the overflowing carb, some engine paint don't like petrol so why risk it.
I would also advise pulling the clutch lifter mechanism apart, the one inside the sprocket case. Check it's intact, especially under the seal, they do get cracked, inspect the ball bearing for roundness, clean it up and regrease liberally.
I'll get on to Piki for a set - thanks
The push rod is definately broken ... I pushed it back together and it shifts OK but have picked up a couple of NOS ones so will replace it ....
I'll change the ball bearing - how do I get the lifter mechanism apart ? I've seen pics of it broken but TBH didn't check this as I was just happy to have installed the cable without loosing anything or breaking anything
Simon
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Undo the locking screw on the outside, remove the fork piece on the inside and the complete mechanism comes out from the inside
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Simon
My push rod was broken beyond the “guide hole” and was burred, so it wouldn’t come out left side. I had to take off the clutch housing and take it out that side. Hope yours is easier. Best J
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This push rod is it the long part that goes from one side of the engine to the other?
Are new ones available mine is very rusty at the left side end ?
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Yes Ted. It's all one piece, if yours is in 2 pieces it's broken and should be replaced.
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Yes Ted. It's all one piece, if yours is in 2 pieces it's broken and should be replaced.
Mine is in one piece but the end couple of inches is very rusty at the cable end.
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Trigger supplied me with a stronger version. Very pleased.
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Trigger supplied me with a stronger version. Very pleased.
I checked but he hasn't any more available ...... I think I'll have to go in from the clutch housing as the piece that was coming out didn't look very long - unless you know an easy way :)
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Undo the locking screw on the outside, remove the fork piece on the inside and the complete mechanism comes out from the inside
Brilliant thanks ... I'll do it when I change the oil and replace the push rod .... and hopefully the 3 x casings that will have been polished by then !!
Simon
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Hopefully if a bit is protruding you can grip it and draw it out. Mine was broken behind the plate with the hole in, the shorter piece had been put in back to front so the shaped end had peened the tip of the long section so it was too fat to come out through the hole. >:(
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So ... all set today to swap the push rod / change the casings and refresh the oil / filter etc
Question ... if i have to get the pushrod out from the clutch basket side - is there a torque setting for the nuts when re assembling - I've looked but can't find one ?
Thanks
Simon
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Tight is the one, there is a generic for 6mm bolts but thats in the book and mine aint here
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Tight is the one, there is a generic for 6mm bolts but thats in the book and mine aint here
Thanks Bryan
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I’d go for 3-5 ftlb in the absence of other info…..just saying.
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I’d go for 3-5 ftlb in the absence of other info…..just saying.
Many thanks :)
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Manual calls for 7.2-10.1 lbs-ft which seems way high. Never used t wrench, I just tighten em.
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Modern manuals say 6.5ftlbs for a 6mm screw and 7ftlbs for a flanged 6mm bolt.
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I marked mine with a sharpie and tightened them to the same point apart from one that was probably a bit under in the first place. There are stories of over tightening, including due to torque wrench not working properly, and the basket cracking. They don’t need to be very tight, I got an impression when undoing them, maybe mark and then use a very low torque to ‘test’ the mark.
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Standard torque settings really depends on thread type and bolt type. The higher values correspond with high tensile and fine threads. Go by the manual, assuming you have the correct fixings.
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I always used my thumb as a guide, I'd put my thumb on the side of the head of the ratchet and when it felt tight enough I'd stop. I checked it once to see how much I was putting on there and it was perfect so I always do that now.
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Modern manuals say 6.5ftlbs for a 6mm screw and 7ftlbs for a flanged 6mm bolt.
1974 manual calls for 6mm hex bolts 5.8-8.7 lbs ft
Clutch spring bolts are especially picked out as higher, up to 10.1.
Maybe one of the many mistakes and maybe they had a lot snapped.
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That would be for for a ‘fine thread’, which they are….