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Messages - nairb
1
« on: July 21, 2024, 05:35:42 PM »
I have never worked on one of these engines before. I have rebuilt a cb360 and cd175 engine ages ago. I thought these 450 engines were bulletproof, or a good as.
I have changed the oil regularly, but something has failed or will soon.
And I have noticed that the cylinder head is a large one piece lump. And it's obvious now that the head won't come off with the camchain still in place.
And the engine has to be out of the frame to get the head off............. And I thought it was a Sunday afternoon jobbie with a couple of spanners.
I tested one of the lumps of metal that dropped out of the oil drain hole and its magnetic. Maybe I should have waited before buying 4 new bearing retainers from DSS.
2
« on: July 21, 2024, 02:46:09 AM »
Thanks for the info. I have finally dug out the/a manual for the 5 speed engine (clymer)and gave it a look at. I really dislike pulling a factory finish engine apart, and it's going to be the full job to get at those bearing retainers and check their condition...... Bugger. The engine was still running OK. It was the bits of metal that dropped out at oil change time that gave the game away.
Not looking forward to this at all. Will I really have to split the cam chain..... the manual seems to say so. 2-stroke engines are So much easier.
3
« on: July 17, 2024, 05:14:27 PM »
I think that means the crank will have to be split to replace those bearing retainers..... a bit like splitting the crank on a triple 2 stroke to replace the oil seals
4
« on: July 16, 2024, 04:55:11 PM »
After a bit of research, I think one or other of the bearing retainers on the crank will need to be replaced after several chunks of metal came out when draining the engine oil.
The bearing retainers are shown in the following pic with red arrows.
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Before I start the engine pull down, I was wondering if I will need to get the crank re-built with the new bearing retainers.
I suspect it's the inner bearing retainers that are the problem. And the crank will need to be split to get at them
Ta
Nairb
5
« on: March 16, 2024, 01:17:49 AM »
I am greedy. I have 11 of the things. Different sorts, Single, twins, triples and 1 inline 4 and a rotary. All collected over the last 45 years or so. And 1 more recently. All rebuilt, some a complete rebuild and some just a good recommission with new tyres etc.
I don't really have a favourite. They are all different. All that matters is that when a dry day arrives I can still pull one of the machines out and spend an afternoon riding about in the country or further.
One day it will all be one of those things you USED to do....
6
« on: March 15, 2024, 09:32:47 PM »
If the front wheels are the same diameter the drive box will be the same, is this Suzuki GT or Kawasaki GT
I was not brave enough to assume that. But having just checked the part numbers for a 1974 gt750 and most years of a gt550 the drive box numbers are all the same. Now, if I was really keen I could nick the speedo off the gt550A and tape it to the 750 and see if it still reads ok. How precise would you expect the speedo to be calibrated? They are not that precise from stock.
Both the cb360 & cl450 show about 40mph in a 40mph zone (in those areas that show your speed). The Suzuki shows 50+.
7
« on: March 15, 2024, 07:08:24 PM »
It's the right clock for the bike. It's a gt750. I have had the bike for many years and don't remember if the speedo issue has always been there or has got worse over time. What could be a problem is if the speedo drive/wheel (front) is off a gt550. I think they are a different gearing.
I have been quoted 150 quid to check the speedo.
I will ask "Kent400" to look at a cb550 clock, which I have had from new. It's slow to rise in mph and slow to fall back to zero. This time I know the clock used to be ok.
All these things are getting on for 50 years old. Did they ever expect them to be working all these years later.
nairb
8
« on: March 15, 2024, 04:09:08 AM »
So I need to get one of the speedo's recalibrated. Its showing 85mph+ at 70. I have put up with it for years but have decided to get it sorted.
Just wondering what is a good price for such a bit of work. The clock is in goodish order...... just a not so accurate.
It's off an **750.
Ta
Nairb
9
« on: January 02, 2024, 02:28:54 PM »
Well, I have pulled the cam chain tensioner out and expected to see some problem with it.....
For good or bad, it seems to be ok.
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It would be better to find out what's wrong without pulling the engine apart. It's not been apart before, and I would prefer it to stay that way.
10
« on: December 31, 2023, 12:25:58 PM »
Hello, I have owned the bike for over 11 years. Its done at least 5k miles and has had several oil changes. I decided to do a general service and check all the usual things. Its been running ok, but it's winter time so never a better time.
I thought to check the valve clearance on all valves, so off with both the covers. On the LH inlet side, there were some metal bits around the valve stem.
Pic of the lh inlet valve
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and a pic of the bits of metal. A solid ring of sorts
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I am wondering if the cam chain tensioner has started to break up. The cam chain is not as tight as I expected.
Is it possible to remove the lower cam tensioner (below the carbs) without taking the head off.
Has anybody else found bits like these.
Ta
Nairb
11
« on: December 03, 2023, 10:36:49 AM »
These carbs are off a cl450k5. I had to change the fuel lines to more resilient E10 proof fuel lines,
There does not seem to be any sign of soldering, either on the carb or the brass? fitment. It looks like nothing except a push fit. Is there a slight taper in the carb body?.
I would prefer to solder the thing back in, but don't want to wreak the carb body. I only have a "hobby" soldering iron.
I could heat up the brass fitment to be very hot and push it into the carb and apply flux & solder.
Some adhesive does seem the safest route.
The brass? bit
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12
« on: December 02, 2023, 11:47:14 AM »
Hello, Just managed to pull the Brass fuel pipe connector out of the Keihin carb. See pic.
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Does "super glue" work to hold these things back in. Not sure if "soldering" would work.
Ta
Nairb
13
« on: September 30, 2023, 10:27:58 PM »
One nut in, the other out has worked well for years. Or has seemed too. The only flat tyres have been due to nails/screws etc.
I have seen other ways of securing the valve or using the two nuts. Example below....
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I had not seen the alternative way or had it mentioned......
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The new setup that failed was on a 750 parallel twin with loads of torque, which used two tyre locks to keep the tyre in place. Maybe they failed. I dont know.
I will try the 2nd pic method and check that those tyre locks do actually grip and hold the tyre.
14
« on: September 30, 2023, 06:18:55 PM »
You would have thought that after many years of changing tyres and tubes I would not need to ask the question.....
In the pic below .......
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Does one nut stay inside the rim and the other outside. I have done it like this for years, but doubt has crept in.
Last week, I put a brand-new tyre and tube + rim tape on a rear wheel. Within 35 miles the inner tube failed for some reason. Not at the valve but within 15 cm. The tyre seems ok. I was still running the tyre/tube in.
Ta
Nairb
15
« on: September 20, 2023, 10:09:48 PM »
A good carb bench sync costs nowt.
That's what I have always done. If all the carbs do the same thing, it's a starting point. For some reason, I have the urge to see how "balanced" they really are. I think the 2 single carb bikes are free of sin. 4 of the Suzuki triples might show something of interest. 4 of the 4 stroke twins are ideal for a look at...... except they all don't have take off points for carb balancing the only in-line 4 is an ideal candidate. I need to check how many of these bikes actually can be carb balanced. The xs650 and cl450 dont have the necessary bits. I thought they all did.
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