Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: FrasMac on August 12, 2015, 10:00:46 PM
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Hi,
Well, replaced my fusebox with one off ebay, half the price of DS, and in very good condition. Went for a run and broke down, pushed home a mile and a half, got the old continuity tester out, and the main fuse had popped.
So, now I'm thinking short somewhere.
Is there anywhere that is vulnerable to shorting that would take out the main fuse, or is it just a case of trying every connector and wire until I find it?
Or might there be another reason that the old fusebox fried, and the new fuse popped?
Cheers!
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It must me an intermittent short, otherwise it would have blown straightaway. Check where the loom passes through places like the handlebars, on the sprocket cover, the points cover etc.....
Try running the engine on the stand and waggling the loom around to reproduce the fault.
Next time you go for a ride, take spare fuses.
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did the fuse pop in the middle (high current) or at the end(vibration/heat) if at the end polish the contacts in the box and make sure they are tight on the fuse end as dirt and loose makes for heat which causes melted box and fuse end
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Also check the bunch in the headlight shell for anything touching the rim or grounded parts, this is where I had an issue in the past.
If you know which fuse is blowing it should help narrow things down a bit.
Dave
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It was the main fuse Dave; thatwhy he ended up pushing it home.
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Sorry missed that bit about the main fuse.
As a previous poster mentioned, anywhere a wire can get pinched or chafed is the first place to look.
Dave.
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Hi.
The main fuse supplies a few circuits. As a starter for 10 you could rule out:
(1) the starter circuit is (since you subsequently get out & about after starting the engine)
(2) the lighting circuits since they have their own (lesser) fuses.
The circuits subsequently left to check are the..
1) Horn.
2) passing switch
3) kill switch / Coils
4) indicator relay
5) Regulator
6) Brake light switches
7) Oil Px light
I'd be looking for a 'floating' black wire around the..
1) Horn
2) Neutral Light circuit
3) Oil Px light circuit
4) F & R Brake light switches
5) Oil Px light
..... in summary the headlamp bowl or within the neoprene 'sock' under the tank / ie frame LHS.
Failing this, as suggested, just wiggle / pull / bounce the loom / all connectors with the engine running on stand. Kinda 'hurts' I know - but not as much as pushing 170Kg 3 miles....
Simon