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Messages - Dolomite_
46
« on: March 01, 2024, 02:23:44 PM »
If you havent looked at crankcase how are you seeing the ends? And they are supposed to be shiney where they bed in, put up pics for advice before spending a fortune
I hadnt taken the con rods off then, but I have now.
47
« on: February 28, 2024, 03:22:18 PM »
Disagree about shells, inspect yes but replace only if wor and make sure you know where they were originaly
I've not looked at the crankshaft bearing just yet but the big end bearings seem ok, still slightly shiny. But I think I may as well replace them.
48
« on: February 26, 2024, 01:04:46 PM »
Are the NOS Honda ones new old stock?
Sounds like an oxymoron dunnit? 
FFS I read it completely wrong  . I've never seen new old stock abbreviated
49
« on: February 26, 2024, 11:02:37 AM »
Thanks, Laverda Dave, I'll give Nurse Julie/Graham a dm. Not purchased any pistons yet, I'm waiting until I've sorted everything out with the engine. I was just going to go with the Davis Silvers Spares oversized ones so I know they will definitely fit but are there any that might be better?
Are the NOS Honda ones new old stock?
50
« on: February 26, 2024, 08:48:20 AM »
I agree with all the above and would add a caveat to the rebore work and that is be very wary of the man down the road who is used to reboring car or British motorcycle engines. Japanese motorcycle engines run very tight tolerances. The individual pistons should be measured and numbered. The bores are machined to suit the individual pistons.
I second Ted & Bryanj's recommendation, get the rebore done by someone who knows what they are doing with regards to these engines. The specific tolerances are in the Haynes manual.
I had a Honda CB250RS rebored by a so-called specialist five years ago. Despite giving him the tolerances he decided to do it his way as he thought the tolerance was too tight and the piston would sieze. Guess what, this is exactly what happened but not because it was too tight but because the 'specialist' bored it out as he would a British bike and didn't tell me. The engine used a litre of oil in the space of 50 miles, the bike sump only holds 1.5 litres, result a full seizure on the M40 motorway on a newly rebuilt motor. There was a big hole in the top of the piston on inspection.
Only use people who are recommended by others on this forum to save yourself a lot of pain and money👍
Good point Laverda Dave. Ive had a quick search through the forum but couldnt find any mentions, do you know any places in the Northwest you would recommend?
51
« on: February 25, 2024, 06:16:47 PM »
Have you priced a rebore recently, the last four sets of 500 i did did not clean at 0.25 as the bores were "barelled" had to go to 0.5
I've not had to rebore anything yet. Im guessing its going to be atleast a couple hundred pounds. I'm going to contact an engine machine specialist near me tomorrow.
52
« on: February 25, 2024, 03:59:41 PM »
I guess it depends on what might be wrong. I've just spent £450.oo on parts and £700 for labour, price agreed beforehand, presently my bike is still in the garage. I was advised to get the rebuild because of leaking gaskets and some seals. I opted to get the cam chain, it's 'horseshoe' and tensioner blades complete changed while things are open and a broken piston ring was also found. Nothing else that really matters has come up. Mine is a 1978 CB400F with 40,000 on the clock, the last 12,000 were gentle ones with me.
How were the bores?
53
« on: February 25, 2024, 03:30:24 PM »
The bike has done 28k but I dont know how much wear that might cause. I think it might be a case of I'm down there already so get a rebore of 0.25mm done.
Is the estimate of £1200 getting someone else to do it? From the rough estimates in my head, I was expecting 600-700 just for parts and doing 90% of it myself.
54
« on: February 25, 2024, 01:56:38 PM »
After googling and having a look through older posts and not finding anything, I thought I'd ask.
Does anyone know if there is a list of what to replace when doing an engine rebuild? It's my first engine rebuild, the furthest I've been so far is taking the barrels off.
What is definitely worth replacing and what is worth replacing because its already stripped?
55
« on: February 22, 2024, 05:38:51 PM »
Thanks! I'll check those out.
Is there a benefit to changing from hex to allen heads?
56
« on: February 22, 2024, 03:16:54 PM »
My engine is fully stripped and the cam tensioner hole has been repaired. Quite a few of the original hex bolts are worse for wear so I've been looking to get at least the crankcase bolts replaced. Is there a best choice when choosing between allen or hex head bolts? There seem to be a lot more allen head replacements. Can anyone recommend some companies that do sets of bolts? I've seen CMSK mentioned and they do a good range of allen head bolts, but if i can get them from somewhere where I dont have to pay £20+ on postage, that would be great
57
« on: February 12, 2024, 09:23:50 AM »
58
« on: February 12, 2024, 09:09:08 AM »
Westfield fasteners will do most of what you want (there is another supplies but I can't think of them on a Monday morn!)
I'd replace the camchain as well.
As Bryn says, unlikely shells need changing. Check if the cylinder bore look OK and if there is a lip at the top.
Is there a list of the bolts required? I was trying to find a crankcase set so I know I've got the correct bolts. Westfield fasteners just seem to do individual and I dont want to get the wrong bolts
59
« on: February 12, 2024, 09:06:01 AM »
Shells rarely need changing, Julies picture is of a useless chain and it you fit new also chage rubber dampers in primary drive.
Check tensioner horseshoe for free movement and tensioner lock bolt ans plunger
The tensioner horseshoe is seized so thats being replaced. The tensioner lock bolt and plunger need repairing, I'm taking the crankcase today to see if it can be repaired as I'm not confident that I could drill and tap the new thread.
60
« on: February 11, 2024, 10:15:59 PM »
I've just finished stripping the engine, just the valves to do. What are the main things I should check for? The bike has done 28k miles. I'm already planning on getting new big end bearings etc and replacing the cam tensioner and cam chain. The primary chain seems fine. How much play should there be? The pistons seem fine to me, how should I judge if I need to get some up sized ones? Some of the crankcase bolts were a bit naff and one rounded off, does anyone know anywhere that does some good quality replacements? I've found these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262689167997 are allen heads fine? I cant seem to find any hex bolt sets.
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