Honda-SOHC

Other Stuff => Tricks & Tips => Topic started by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:07:15 PM

Title: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:07:15 PM: How to do fork seals, An idiot explains

First prop the victim up with front wheel up in the air

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020264.jpg)

Then remove the front calipers by undoing these bolts (14mm Socket) on both sides

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020266.jpg)

I then tend to hook the calipers up out if the way so they don't pull the hoses

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020268.jpg)

Then remove the front wheel. Your bike may have a "F" on the cap, if not I tend to dot punch the fork and the cap to ensure correct orientation and side match. If look carefully you'll see them

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020269.jpg)

Next undo these bolts (13mm socket) on both sides

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020265.jpg)
And place the nuts and washers in a safe place
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:16:16 PM: Next the undo the speedo cable and drop the wheel out.

The mudguard is held with 4 bolts inside the mudguard. Mine were 10mm socket size with a lock washer and a penny washer

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020270.jpg)

The mudguard will then remove toward the engine. Then undo (but not remove) the bottom pinch bolt (14mm socket)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020272.jpg)

Then the top one (10mm socket)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020273.jpg)

Then the fork leg will remove downwards to leave you with next picture
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:19:02 PM: So this is what you should have about now

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020274.jpg)

So we now transfer the leg to a vice or a workmate or something

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020278.jpg)

Then looking up the end where the spindle lived you see this

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020271.jpg)

Its a 6mm allen bolt that needs to be undone and removed
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:22:45 PM: Then drain the fork leg into a suitable receptacle

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020276.jpg)

On mine I had drain screws so I used them

Now pull the leg apart and you should have this

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020279.jpg)

Transfer the bottom of the leg to your vice/workmate and remove the dust cover by putting a screwdriver under it and gently lifting

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020281.jpg)
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:25:45 PM: Next remove the C clip as shown here

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020282.jpg)

All you need to do is put a screwdriver in the gap and gently lift it out

Next remove the seal the same way you did the dustcover. Then wipe the bit where the seal sits and insert the new seal.

Wrong way up

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020286.jpg)

Right way up

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020285.jpg)
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:32:18 PM: Use the old seal to drive the new one in. Once the groove is seen replace the C clip by poking it into the groove and gently pressing it into place. Ensure it goes in all the way round with a nice click noise.

Next re-insert the leg and slide the dust cover into position, Then refit the allen screw in the base.

In the best traditions of the Haynes manual re-assembly is the reverse of dismantling. Then do the other one.

Once both seals are replaced refill with oil. To do this you need to remove the big nut at the top of the leg (23mm Socket) like this

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/PaulG80/Honda%20Fork%20Strip/P1020289.jpg)

Then fill with oil, I use a big 60ml syringe and as the F2 uses 155ml I do 2 fills of 50ml then a 55ml one.
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: PMK on August 08, 2010, 07:33:57 PM: If the seal has been leaking real bad it's always a good idea to replace the brake pads too.

Mine were salvaged with brake cleaner and a rub over with sandpaper.

Hope this helps someone

;D
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: Spitfire on August 10, 2010, 02:58:25 PM: Excellent work, should keep this one handy, on mine (F1) the Allen bolt in the bottom of the leg just kept turning, so I undid the big nut at the top and bunged in a couple of sockets then put the nut back on, this worked and I got the bolt out.

Cheers

Den
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: Yoshi823 on August 10, 2010, 08:44:58 PM: Stubborn bolts that go through the bottom of the fork leg can be undone with an air ratchet together with a bit of pressure down on the springs so's to put some weight onto the damper rod.

On another bike of mine I found a nut that fitted into the recess on the top of the damper rod, the, using an old Imperial sized 1/2" socket I welded the two together. This then meant that I was able to hold the damper rod steady while undoing the lower bolt.

It's a good idea to put a dab of blue Loctite on the thread of the lower bolt when reassembling this.

Also, before removing the fork legs from the yokes, it's a good idea to loosen the top caps on the forks, so that if you need to undo them so's to remove the springs they're already loose. The top yoke clamp nolts for the fork should be undone to do this, but leave the lower yoke clamp bolts done up.
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: Picasoo on November 25, 2011, 01:17:36 PM: Nice pics...thanks!!
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: bluemouse1006 on February 15, 2012, 02:35:45 PM: Great bit of info

The pictures with the seal wrong and right way round,I replaced the seals on mine prior to putting it on the road,had it MOTed today and got an advise ref the front seals damp ..... when i fitted mine I put them back as I found them.. it works out some muppett fitted the seal upside down !! so I did the same no wonder they bloody leak hey .. bought some Jap seals today Ill change the seals and make sure I fit them the correct way round this time ..

Amos ;D
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: Bryanj on February 15, 2012, 03:42:03 PM: Only extra I would add is fix the pitting to the chrome with epoxy A how to exists somewhere but may be on the US site
Title: Re: Fork Seals 750F2 (Long with pictures) Part 1
Post by: Tomb on February 15, 2012, 07:22:48 PM: Can I add, if it helps (I'll get me coat if it doesn't ;D)

When doing my 500/4 seals I leave the stanchion in the yokes, remove the bottom screw and slide the slider off.

I first put the bike on the centre stand on a 2" thick piece of wood and lift the front end of the bike up to get the ground clearance to slide the slider off ........over an oil pan. ;)

It looks possible to do this on the 750 looking at the photos, is this right??

Apart from it being easier, the other reason I don't remove the stanchions is my 500 has clip-on bars and headlamp clamps that are a pain when removing stanchions, anyone with a cafe racer style bike may have the same issues.