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Messages - Fourplay
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1
« on: May 23, 2023, 11:53:20 PM »
still thinking at present,if I do jump I would welcome your input etc,
still not seen it,
so not sure about its availability, my friends know the owner,hence the picture,
depends on what the owner wants to do with it,let it rust away,or hopefully give it a second life,
[/quote]
Hello John,
Of course be happy to help in any way I can if you end up taking the plunge,
Justin
2
« on: May 19, 2023, 11:31:38 PM »
Sorry I meant John!
Here's a pic of mine pre strip down. Oh how I wish I hadn't bought this on ebay without major research and seeing it in the flesh.
Lots wrong with it, you couldn't tell from the photos. Wrong seat, exhaust and silencers, chopped front guard rotten rear guard, swing arm rotted through underneath, smashed plastic light holder botched with tape and painted over. Hacked about light unit. Headlight ears cracked. Centre stand butchered and pivot on frame collapsed. Gearshaft bent etc etc etc.
But challenge accepted!
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« on: May 19, 2023, 11:08:10 PM »
Hi Andy,
There's certainly spares out there. Usual sources CMSNL, David Silver and of course ebay. Lots of genuine nos in Thailand on ebay but watch out for rust (must be something to do with the humidity.)
Rarest parts are the one piece silencers and exhausts. Pretty much unobtanium. When they do come up on ebay NOS can be up to £1000 per side. Most second hand ones are completely rotten and still command silly prices.
I'm currently restoring one. But I'm an NOS obsessive so taken me a fair while so far.
Probably the most expensive will be the paint job considering the bikes value, as apart from standard honda silver for the tank, mudguard, and chainguard and a few gloss black bits, all the rest is either candy blue or candy red.
I was quoted £2000 by dream machine for everything.
There's a UK based Facebook group just for these bikes and there are some excellent people on there with helpful info and resources.
Good luck if you take it on. I see it's missing a front mudguard. I have a spare NOS one to get the ball rolling if you do. Also some other bits and bobs where I've doubled up,
Justin
4
« on: June 16, 2021, 08:48:01 AM »
Those drilling marks where the filer sits are standard, we all have them to a greater or lesser degree on our engines. There are quite a few in various places all over the engine, so nothing to worry about.
There is alway a bit of side play on the primary chain and as for the engine noise, I would start with giving the carbs a thorough strip and clean, fit new Viton O rings, bench sync and then vaccum sync. How many miles has that engine done?
Hello Julie. I bought the bike in April with 39,000 miles 10,000 done in the last 30 years. (have MOTs back to 1991 and receipts for work/parts back to 2006). New pistons fitted in 2006 at 36,000 miles. Receipts for dealer servicing/new parts. Came with carb rebuild sets, so I know the carbs need sorting. Was putting this off until I was happy that the cam chain/primary chain were okay. But I guess the uneven running at idle may be contributing to the rattle and primary chain slap. Never owned a four before so much of this new to me. So as advised I think I will remove the carbs, and try and reuse as much of the original jets etc as possible. I'll be in touch about the Viton O rings once I've stripped the carbs as I see you sell the Carb screw sets as well , Thanks for your help. Justin
5
« on: June 16, 2021, 08:08:54 AM »
Looks to me like a plugged machining hole from Honda and that rod is a snap on type screw extractor that is supposed to be turned with the double ended nut, better than the tapered easyouts as its hamered into a parallel hole so the flutes bite in but still only works 50% of the time
Hi Bryan, The rod has been set in at an angle and not dead centre of the sheared bolt, its between the outer diameter and the threaded part of the crankcase. I think I'm going to have to leave this until I have to do a full engine strip as it seems risky trying to get it out lying on my back —I may do more damage that way. I'll remove the sump again and see if I can get the remains of theone I sheared out —may be easier—hopefully there may be part of the bolt sitting proud of the crankcase. Any thoughts on the engine noise, also on the primary chain/sprocket etc play? Thanks, Justin
6
« on: June 15, 2021, 11:04:08 PM »
Just got my recently acquired 79 400/4 running. My concern is the noise from the engine at tickover. I shot a video on my phone and at 1200 revs there seems to be a rattling and lashing coming from the lower part of the engine. Please excuse the poor quality of the videos (shot lying on my back under the bike!) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWlwj_9bQikIt's definitely not ticking over smoothly and the PO said it needed the carbs stripping down and syncing. But before attempting the carb strip down, I re-tensioned the primary chain, changed the plugs and did the tappets. It seemed quieter less rattling sound but still the lashing. So I decided to change the oil and filter and clean the sump to see what delights lay in store. Oil quite black but no metallic particles just some bits of gasket cement. But what is this all about? Looks like someone has attacked the filter housing with a drill? [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Also one of the sump bolts had sheared and a fluted rod/drill was fixed into the broken stud on the sump. A double ended nut had been forced onto the end of the rod to hold the cover in place. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Before re-fitting the filter housing and sump, thought I would have a look at the primary chain. There seems a lot of sideplay in the chain/sprocket/collar, is this correct? See video link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5_cqHMzBuoI've refitted the sump but dang it I managed to shear one of the Sump bolts. Haven't attempted to remove it yet. So now down to 9 bolts on the sump! I know it's bodged and hate leaving it as is. Just want to get the engine running ok and ride a few miles to see what else needs sorting. Any advice gratefully received Justin
7
« on: June 06, 2021, 12:27:46 PM »
More like a crap one
8
« on: June 06, 2021, 10:26:32 AM »
Decided to overhaul my front brake this morning but someone had got there before me.
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Hedge sparrows nesting in my hedge. This fledgling flew out across the road where his parents were waiting fussing around him. Phew hopefully safe now.
Definitely needs overhauling now after the mess on my disc/caliper! Good job my cats are too lazy and tend to keep to the back garden otherwise could have been a blood bath as well to clean up!
What's the strangest thing you've found on your bikes?
9
« on: May 28, 2021, 08:17:30 AM »
Thanks for the replies.
Ash, the hubs look polished (but still have scratch swirls which I guess they didn't bother polishing out in those days) they came in honda parts paper with correct part numbered labels. There are a couple of scratches through the clear coat and a few swirls in the finish of the clear coat,so I think I'll strip them and maybe just clear coat the hub centres, where its awkward to clean. Back to my original post re: the braking surface, what would you recommend to coat them in for storage purposes, don't want any more rust forming?
As far as silencers go yes Rocking Horse Doo Dah. Been looking on and off for the last 5 years. The bike came with a rusty pair of these. So I probably get another pair.
My wheels are 17inch and I've got new rims (not DID) from DSS.
Here's a pic of the bike when I bought it. Looks a lot better in the photos. Swingarm was completely ravaged by rust, I've got a s/h replacement which is solid. Came with the wrong seat (PO bought from DSS) which is off a 1973 CL100KO/125K3 in good condition see pic.
I've now got a correct used base, Cover and foam are shot and it needs welding. I've kept the foam, so it can be matched by a seat recoverer.
Lots to do still, its been on the back burner for some time now, while I've been gathering parts.
Thanks again everyone. Love that Mono photo of the SS125
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« on: May 27, 2021, 06:27:35 AM »
I've been gathering parts for my 1969 ss125a restoration and bought NOS front and rear hubs from DSS at a good price, as they were sold as imperfect. I'm guessing these were sourced from Thailand where there are various sellers on eBay and I have bought stuff from them which despite being sealed in bags suffer from corrosion— I guess from the humidity over there.
On inspection the braking surface on the drums had some light rust overall with a patch on each of slightly deeper rust areas. I've cleaned them up with a scotchbrite pad and should be serviceable. I'm still keeping them in storage so want to prevent further rusting. What would be good to use whilst in storage, and will be easy to remove and won't compromise the braking surface once fitted. I'm thinking ACF50 or WD40 may soak into the surface?
They were also clear coated which looks fine. Polishing is quite crude.
I remember seeing lots of yellowing peeling clear coat on the Hondas of my youth so my question is would it be best to remove this clear coat and replace with a modern alternative. If so what's the best way to remove the coating without compromising the original polishing. And which modern clear coat would be best.
Thanks
Justin
11
« on: May 15, 2021, 06:48:30 AM »
Hello,
Just recently bought a 1979 registered 400/4 F2 with 39,000 miles on the clock (believed genuine). Still to get it running properly currently awaiting engine service kit from DSS. A planned weekend of fettling scuppered due to the wet weather (old style front garden job for me).
There seems too be an oil weep from the filter housing and sump. the sump looks like its taken a bashing with fin damage also the filter housing has one fin broken off. Would ideally like to replace these at some point. If I find any cracks in the housings I'll have to do it sooner. Hopefully it'll just be gasket issues. See photo. The cam chain adjuster looks like its screwed quite far in see photo (is this a cause for concern?)
Looking back through receipts it has had new pistons fitted in 2006 at 36,000 miles by Hunts of Manchester with a recommendation that the carbs be looked at (a set of unbranded carb service kits came with the bike but were never fitted). A new front mudguard was also bought (numbered 61100377000) How can I tell if this is genuine? Also New Hagon shocks. By the same dealer Exhaust Pipe 1 and 3 and new silencer. Again is it possible to tell if these are genuine? Part numbers on the receipts are correct, but are these meaningless.
The seat looks pretty new (no receipt) numbers on the base don't correspond with anything I can find the set clicks into place on the lock but doesn't quite seat properly further back. I'm presuming this is non-original. Base also looks quite flimsy.
I'm not that bothered if the parts are aftermarket replacements it would just be good to know what I've got should I wish to sell it on at a future date and be honest with a future owner.
My intention is too give it a full service, strip and clean the carbs (reuse the original jets etc if within spec.) and bench tune and synch the cabs.
And Ride it.
If the cam chain adjuster has been compromised I guess a full strip is in order.
Thanks for reading any advice/tips gratefully received.
Cheers,
Justin
12
« on: May 12, 2021, 06:23:38 PM »
Hello Julie and Phil,
Thanks for the warm welcome and the advice. The carb kits are unbranded so I may leave them on the shelf. Julie I will definitely be wanting those Viton seals. I'm also presuming it might be good idea to change all the hoses for nitrile ones.
There is a Petrol station that sells ethanol free fuel a few miles away but there may be times when I fill up that I'll have no choice. I want to use the bike this summer. At the moment back issues prevent me from using the centre stand (caused by clearing a space for the bike!).
My plan is not to get too carried away buying cosmetic replacement parts otherwise I'll find myself stripping it down completely.
Although buying some new genuine spares for future restoration could be on the cards.(I'm a bit of a Part Tart).
So I think I'll read up all I can and give everything a check over, get it started and make sure all's well. Ride it and take it from there. I'm sure I'll have lots of question too so I get it right first time.
Cheers,
Justin
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« on: May 12, 2021, 02:11:30 PM »
Hello Everyone,
Just recently bought a 1979 registered CB400 four F2. Been perusing this site for a few days, must say there's a lot of expert advice and it seems a very friendly site compared to others I've been on.
I was actually looking for a 60s CL77 initially. But in a general search the 400/4 came up. I remember them from my youth and always hankered after one. Mates drew me into the British bike scene, so while most kids of our age were on Fizzies and rd250s we were riding (but mainly fixing!) Tiger cubs, Bantams and Ariel Arrows. I've still got my Cub, dont think I'll ever part with it. Since those days I've had various bikes. Currently own 2009 Ducati Monster 1100S, 1968 Honda SS125A (in bits), 1956 Triumph Tiger Cub. 1956 Triumph Tr5 Trophy, 1961 Triumph Speed Twin.
The bike looks cosmetically good given its age and unrestored condition. It's done 39,000 miles 10,000 of which have been done in the last 30 years. It's had 10 POs. I have receipts going back to 2006, and MOTs back to 1991, so I think the mileage is genuine. It had new pistons and rings in 2006, new exhaust system as well, though don't know if this is genuine Honda. Lots of other stuff done mainly to cycle parts, and service items.
When I bought it the engine sounded ok, but then again I'm not totally familiar with these bikes. I've ordered a new battery and service kit from DSS. The carbs will probably need a look at. A carb service kit came with the bike, purchased in 2006 but the PO never fitted it so I will dive in at some point and strip them down. The thing that impressed me about the bike is it looks like it's been serviced by Honda dealers judging by the receipts, Nuts and screws have not been mullered. Hopefully the cam chain, and the rest of the engine is ok.
Thanks for listening. Think I'm going to like it here,
Justin
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