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Messages - AndyD
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181
« on: August 23, 2020, 06:04:12 PM »
Seen a few threads on rebuilding wheels and think I might have a go as well.
I wondered what people do for the hubs - i.e. polish, paint, vapour blast or something else to get a good standard-ish finish that's reasonably durable?
Cheers,
Andy
182
« on: August 23, 2020, 06:02:04 PM »
Thanks,
I've almost got all the bits ready so will have a ring around next week.
Spent a fair bit of time cleaning parts as I appreciate this is crucial to getting good results.
Degreased everything then gave all the parts a good session in the vibratory tumbler - great bit of kit for cleaning and smoothing brackets and almost anything else. Only area it doesn't cope so well with is the recess in small flanged bolts as I guess the media I use can't easily get right into the edges.
Then spent a happy afternoon with wire wheels and abrasive mops to tidy up as best I can.
Really hoping for good results this time.
Cheers,
Andy
183
« on: August 23, 2020, 05:53:32 PM »
Thanks Julie,
That's a really clear guide.
Out of interest has anyone got an idea what the fuel level should be when everything is correctly set up?
I only ask because after many, many hours of fiddling with (and swearing at) the carbs on mine I've finally got the bike to start and tickover well (so far) without incessant incontinence and when set at the right float height the fuel level sits at pretty much exactly the level of the carb bowl joint and I wondered if this is correct compared to a good running bike.
Cheers,
Andy
184
« on: August 23, 2020, 10:23:38 AM »
Hi,
Any recommendations for zinc plating companies?
I've used a couple and not really happy so far so hoping there may be others worth a go.
I'd seen E Williams mentioned somewhere - maybe a magazine article I think - but any suggestions welcome.
Cheers,
Andy
185
« on: August 22, 2020, 12:07:28 PM »
Thanks Gareth,
I thought that was the case - will stick them in the vapour blasting pile.
Cheers,
Andy
186
« on: August 22, 2020, 10:28:01 AM »
Just getting various bits ready for refinishing and had a couple of bits I hope someone can confirm on...
What is the standard finish on the front brake arm
Are the wheel hubs painted or bare alloy
Is the rear brake plate painted or bare alloy
All the the ones I've got have been painted over time by previous owners so just checking which pile to stick these bits in - paint or vapour blasting etc.
Cheers,
Andy
187
« on: August 19, 2020, 08:20:20 PM »
Thanks Dave
That’s one thing I wasn’t sure about - how near to the bore size the hone needed to be and no idea where to find out
Cheers
Andy
188
« on: August 19, 2020, 07:25:03 PM »
Thanks Dave,
I think that's the flex-hone tool and looks like it could be worth a go
The one I looked at was 60mm (hopefully Ok to suit 56mm bore) and was 240 grit - might try it out.
Cheers,
Andy
189
« on: August 19, 2020, 06:40:18 PM »
I've been called a lot worse in the past!
In terms of the glaze buster tool - I can see 3-leg ones with 180 grit and a flex-hone with 240 grit on Amazon.
Is that the sort of thing that would be OK - most of the tools just say medium grit which I guess could be anything!
Cheers,
Andy
190
« on: August 19, 2020, 09:23:33 AM »
Thanks,
Never sure how much to do or how crucial the 'pattern' in the walls is when complete.
I had seen a flex-hone tool which looked nice but downside that they come in specific sizes so not as 'universal' as the 3-leg tools.
John- agree to using lot of oil with the tool as I think it could get quite agressive if not. I guess the split pin and emery cloth is effectively a DIY flap wheel.
Bryan - what sort of flapwheel would you suggest, in terms of size / grit etc. and do you just run through the bores or try and achieve some sort of scratch pattern?
Cheers,
Andy
191
« on: August 18, 2020, 08:50:05 AM »
Hi,
Just a general question on what people do in terms of glaze busting before fitting new rings.
I've used a 3-leg spring loaded contraption before which seemed to work OK but would appreciate any advice / ideas etc. as it's something I've never been totally happy with.
Cheers,
Andy
192
« on: August 12, 2020, 07:13:44 PM »
Hard to see or get good images of the silencer fitting.
Couple of photos hopefully show how it seemed to fit best - but one bolt missing and the other not tight due to the weld in the threads.
Guess the bolts will pull the silencer bracket tighter / better aligned to the frame bracket but the holes all lined up correctly this way and silencer alignment looks right so hopefully this is fitted as intended!
Will take it off, clear out the threads and fit properly when I get a moment.
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Cheers,
Andy
193
« on: August 12, 2020, 08:08:04 AM »
I've been using No-Nonsense degreaser from Screwfix in my parts washer for a while now and quite impressed with it.
Reasonable cost, not too stinky or nasty and seems to work well.
I did have some of the Machine mart stuff when I first bought the parts washer and remember it being pricey, useless in action and also went 'off' after being left for a while.
Cheers,
Andy
194
« on: August 12, 2020, 08:01:28 AM »
Yes, can't say I was too impressed either.
Silencer arrived and is a nice finish but also had a couple of issues with it...
Same problem with the gasket - after a 10 minute session of self-doubt determined that it was simply too thick so had to thin the gasket down (messy) to get it in.
The bracket aligned OK but the first bolt stuck in the captive nut and just wouldn't move in or out - ended up shearing the bolt to get the silencer off again!
Turns out both nuts have weld spatter inside about two-thirds of the way into the thread!
I know I should have tried the bolts in the fixings first but really didn't expect that problem on a brand new part.
At least I can fix these issues easily enough but quite annoying and poor quality control somewhere along the line.
Still, silencer does look an awful lot better than the cheap universal one it replaced.
Cheers,
Andy
195
« on: July 28, 2020, 06:36:40 PM »
Thanks again,
Had a look at the wheels (have a few to choose from!) and will see which bearings need replacing.
Is the staking where holes have been punched around the edge of the retainer?
If so is that just to prevent the retainer coming loose and does anything similar / alternative need doing when new bearings are fitted?
Cheers,
Andy
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