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Messages - UKROBK7
16
« on: July 02, 2012, 07:26:55 PM »
Just ordered 2 genuine point sets from the US (cheap!!) so I will strip everything down when (IF) they arrive and start again.
Rob
17
« on: June 29, 2012, 09:23:47 PM »
Thanks for the advice. I have managed to get the engine timed this morning but the adjustments are nearly on their limits.
Waggles, the pattern back plate does move around and I put a shim at the top to hold it in place against the lower fixings, I don't know if putting the shim at the bottom would have improved the timing setup for me, I never thought to try. The original Honda TEC plate is a better fit, but not much. I checked the shaft when I rebuilt the engine and it wasn't bent. Hopefully I will get the bike finished and on the road with this points setup and then I can sort things out properly.
18
« on: June 29, 2012, 09:06:44 AM »
Thanks Bitsa, mine is stamped 300 so thats OK. I bought a pattern points setup as I was going to change to electronic ignition after I get the engine running correctly (engine and carbs fully rebuilt and waiting to go into frame) and didn't want to spend too much money. Silvers say they have never had problems with these.
I am going to have another go this morning and see what happens, I think the fibre/plastic part of the pattern points has been moulded too short.
Rob
19
« on: June 28, 2012, 07:42:40 PM »
I am having problems getting the 2-3 points on the 750 to adjust. They need to move anti-clockwise (about 10-15 degrees) further than the adjustment allows so obviously something is wrong. Points 1-4 set up OK. The points plate is new so I thought it would be a quick install but I have been at this for ages!! Everything looks OK, I am now wondering if someone replaced the advance/retard mech' as the locating pin is a little small for the crankshaft hole and does not give a positive fit - is there any way of identifying the correct one?.
Before I stripped the bike I found the old plate had the 2-3 points on full anticlockwise adjustment as well.
Any ideas?
20
« on: June 21, 2012, 07:48:27 PM »
Hagons used to offer a repair service for comstars, give them a ring and ask their wheel department for advice but I think you will find they only straightened the alloy rims and left the steel parts in place for safety.
Rob
21
« on: June 20, 2012, 06:27:23 AM »
I bought a Sealey 3-finger hone off ebay for about £10 and adjusted it to give light pressure to break the glaze on my bores. Be very careful as you can "bell mouth" the bores i.e taper the top and bottom, you can also go too far with removing metal. Don't let the hone fingers come too far out of the bores, I used a low speed on my variable speed drill and plenty of oil and moved the hone in and out at a steady rate. Problem was I had to strip the hone and take sharp edges off the mechanism to get it to adjust the pressure correctly (made in China??!!). I only gave the bores a light hone and was really pleased with the result giving a nice cross hatching to the bores. I understand a ball hone is better but I found they were expensive for a one off job. I have used emery cloth in the past on an old british single engine, I wound the emery around a piece of dowel and stuck it in the drill to make a sort of flap wheel. It worked but I don't know about using it on 4 bores of a precision instrument like our Hondas!  If you use an engine m/c shop make sure of the quality of their work. I used a local shop (who do competition engines) to do some valve seat cutting and they cut the seats wrong and nearly ruined a new set of valves, I'm glad I never used them to hone the bores - I can't imagine how they would have ended up. Good luck Rob
22
« on: June 05, 2012, 10:27:17 PM »
On the K7 the bolts are "normal" Flange Bolt part 95701-060-3500 it looks like the F2 uses them as well (so the fiche says).
Rob
23
« on: June 05, 2012, 07:00:47 PM »
Sorry, haven't got it, sold it straight away.
Rob
24
« on: June 02, 2012, 08:42:25 PM »
It looks like the indicator stalk is the same part number = 90154-404-610. DS has 1 so does CMSNL.
Rob
25
« on: June 01, 2012, 08:29:25 PM »
I have tried to attach a drawing (made before I sent mine to the platers) tonight but cannot get it to work so I have PM'd you
Rob
26
« on: May 29, 2012, 02:41:33 PM »
It looks like you need # 13101-392-020. I have had a quick look at Harpers, Riders ,DS and the stateside suppliers but cannot see any.
Sorry,
Rob
27
« on: May 26, 2012, 05:57:32 PM »
Thanks Pete, now I will have to buy an F2 to use it!! I wonder if my wife will understand? I think I know the answer to that! The guy I got it from is Paul Miller Motorcycles in the USA (ebay name = jrwdfa) Rob
28
« on: May 26, 2012, 01:20:26 PM »
Just got back from a break to Egypt, boy was it hot!  The gasket turned up while I was away BUT it is not what is shown on the listing  . 4 of the large diameter holes for the rubber collars are not there - they are smaller diameter. No Honda packaging came with it but it looks genuine Honda as it has the "varnish " around the chain hole and 2 of the stud holes. I have put a photo up - the top gasket is what arrived, the bottom gasket is from the Cycle-X kit. The top (Honda) gasket has the oval fire rings which are as per Honda, the pattern one has circular fire rings. Does anyone have any ideas what model 750 it fits? The part number would be helpful too. Rob
29
« on: May 10, 2012, 09:15:43 AM »
Update on my wrong gasket: Paul Miller sent a replacement yesterday. Now to wait the 10 days to see what turns up!
Rob
30
« on: May 07, 2012, 07:23:16 PM »
Yes but not at £15.44 including postage for a genuine Honda one!! Rob
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