Honda-SOHC

Most 7" units car/bike have the same lug orientation so will usually fit straight in  to these rims just depends if you want to keep it original or not.

The later "Stanley H4" from CB900 has a really good beam pattern as well, used two of them in a car (Triumph TR8) before and they gave brilliant vision.

I guess the original shocks were not of a high end spec anyway, they did the job and I thought they weren't too bad compared to others at the time but by no means a precision spec that we may be used to now. I would have thought that they're worth keeping in stock if not serviceable just because they represent an orignal part of the bike.

You say that you had someone look at them at work who thought they'd had it, it's likely that they would say the same for a spec like that when new anyway as they just would not match up to any critical current appraisal anyway, spose things move on like that!

That looks like a Yoshimura pipe in your heading photo? always liked that design for SOHC 750's, just really neat looking, Bubadel also has the same on his one elsewhere on this site.

Just a tip for screws that could be stuck (don't know if you already may do this) especially engine cases etc; use a larger sized pin punch to gently tap any burred metal around the cross head of the screws back into original place. Then using a good quality / new impact driver tip, tap that into the screw head for a tight fit and either use a socket and T bar to lean on it or impact driver they normally come out.

Usually if you start at them half hearted then you get more rounding off and then stuck, if you prep them up first you can get a much higher first time success.

I've only really owned Jap stuff but more recently rode some brit twins (BSA 650, Triumph 750) from late 60's mid 70's and still can't quite believe how much they shake!!! and the Triumph felt quite slow which I "discussed" with the owner who said I needed to rev it more. Sure it was faster but just felt so cruel to it, like it was going to smash itself to bits. I wouldn't want to own one. I think you'd have had to produced kids if you were thinking about it before subjecting yourself to that level of industrial strength vibration ;-D

Also heard bad reports about 500T Honda, Friend had one that he was always repairing.

Odd choice but can be low cost is a Ducati Monster 600, one of the sweatest twins you'll ever experience and they feel so light almost bicycle like to ride. Try one if you get a chance, think they did a low cost no frills in black only called "Monster Dark". And they're SOHC per cylinder so almost count.

I've had one sand blasted before, complete assembled cases before strip down and make wooden plugs to cover oil pipe and starter-motor holes and replace any bolts if you want to keep originals. Obviosly this gives the same finish to all cases unless you've got extra rocker and alternator castings. This gives the best finish for painting either silver or black.

Originally all main cases, barrels and head casting were a greyish / silver aluminium-ish painted finish (should be a piece of p to mix up ;-) with the cam, alt and gearbox covers loosely polished but not too shiny, just laquered.

Just a further thought, many of the Honda twin cable arrangements have a fixed non adjustable cable to act as the safety return pull with the opening cable being adjustable for length.

This is so that you can set enough slack into the operating cable to allow the bars to go from lock to lock without pulling the throttle open and changing the speed of the bike unintentionally so I would say you have to be able to set it up like this to make it ok.

If you think it through further, if the bike were involved in an accident and subsequently inspected by a motor vehicle engineer do you think it would stand up to that level of scrutiny because your insurer would expect it to.

As long as they close safely then it shouldn't cause a problem. Although it's difficult to judge it without looking at it.

The action is probably an intended difference in the carb design to give a quicker throttle action for their type of use (ie race orientated) with a standard type twistgrip, the cable can't change this.

This is a bit obscure but the original Honda pull cables had a nylon/ plastic internal sleeve inside that tight turn coming out of the twistgrip, not sure if the closing cable is also equipped. The effect without it is that you can have difficulty particularly when you start to open the thottle and the tension feels high friction so you struggle for any subtle control as you start to roll it on.