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Messages - Bryanj
Pages: 1 ... 378 379 [380] 381 382 ... 674
5686
« on: October 10, 2018, 03:40:32 PM »
Only 500/550 ones mate so yes. I only sell them as pairs with rotor and they cost me a lot to import so it comes out at £30 posted to you. If you want one PM me youre details
5687
« on: October 10, 2018, 01:17:05 AM »
If the cranks worn its toast cos you cant regrind them or rather if you do there are no shells made
5688
« on: October 10, 2018, 01:14:40 AM »
As a temporary job until you get a neutral switch find rhe wires in the headlamp shell that would go to the clutch lever switch and join them together
5689
« on: October 10, 2018, 01:06:22 AM »
Got a set of 550k3 carb bodies you cab have cheap plus postage, i know that a lot of the internals are the same but not sure on the bodies. Have you got the pilot jets out to clean them? They clog up for a passtime, are a press fit and you need to twist and pull with vice grips
5690
« on: October 09, 2018, 04:03:15 PM »
Depends on if you have the starter safety box or diode fitted and also what year loom and switches as the operation changed
5691
« on: October 09, 2018, 12:16:24 AM »
Dont forget that there will be a voltage drop if anything is taking power e.g. coils, neutral/oil light etc. There should not be that much of a drop on the red line with no load and with your results taken as is
That means the contacts in the switch are high resistance. Option 1 fill it full of wd40 and work it a lot and retest
Option 2 if 1 does not work take switch apart and manually clean contacts and retest
Option 3 if neither 1 nor 2 work new switch
5692
« on: October 08, 2018, 08:36:32 PM »
1v is a bit much of a loss through the wiring suggesting a bad connection somewhere. With the pos probe on the battery check voltage on the bat, earth lead at engine, engine cases to see if earth connection is good ( should be same voltage at all points) Then assuming ground checks out ok with neg on battery work from bat + to solenoid, fuse(s) both ends, ignition switch input, ignition switch output etc to see where voltage is being lost
5693
« on: October 07, 2018, 09:53:07 PM »
They NEVER had the combined unit from Honda, only difference between 400 reg and all the othe 4's is the angle of the spade connectors
5694
« on: October 06, 2018, 11:09:09 PM »
The only different(higher output) generator is on the 750 auto
5695
« on: October 06, 2018, 06:50:07 PM »
Or to put it another way they aint as purple as that!
5696
« on: October 06, 2018, 05:21:40 PM »
Might spoil the look but the look is a static one in UK without it!
5697
« on: October 06, 2018, 10:50:29 AM »
Cant be K0 and you have got a lot of work to be able to register that------wheres the front brake?
5698
« on: October 06, 2018, 10:43:55 AM »
Genuine Honda is best although even they can have errors, good standby would be Haynes
5699
« on: October 04, 2018, 11:03:32 PM »
Not necessarily mate, reg/rec may not be working new or not or the wiring/connections may be dodgy, either is far more likely than a duff alternator. Only bad alternators/field coils i have ever seen duff in 35+ years were mechanically damaged
5700
« on: October 04, 2018, 08:31:12 PM »
None of the ones i worked on from 74
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