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Messages - Bryanj
Pages: 1 ... 660 661 [662] 663 664 ... 676
9916
« on: April 11, 2009, 09:50:16 PM »
To be honest cant remember, never altered one away from standard and not with my books at the moment
9917
« on: April 11, 2009, 09:18:58 AM »
A lot of the rebuild kits for the 500's are not that good in quality, you are better rebuilding using the old parts cleaned.
Two most common reasons for overflow if needles are good are
(1) Float pivot pins corroded so float sticks
(2) Cracks in the "standpipe" in the float bowl
One other common problen is small flecks ofshite oops rust from the tank lodging in the float needles.
Clutch adjustment can be finicky but is usually OK if you follow the manual carefully and grease the mechanism well, make sure you havent lost the ball bearing in the mechanism and that the pushrod is in one piece----it frequently gets broken by a loose chain
9918
« on: April 05, 2009, 04:32:47 PM »
Do you mean cylinder to head or cylinder to crankcase?
9919
« on: April 04, 2009, 09:18:37 AM »
Reg being close on an import dont mean much as its down to each office. I did 2 x 500's 3 years apart but only 40 numbers apart as Worcester had only issued that many "K" plates in the 3 years Also earlier bike had later number!!
9920
« on: April 04, 2009, 09:14:00 AM »
Also means its not as heavy and easier to get into the frame without scratching the paint!
9921
« on: April 02, 2009, 06:14:36 AM »
I have compiled a list of 500 frame numbers and build dates, mostly from US models that have a vin plate. I will happily try and fit any frame number into that and give an opinion of build date BUT i cannot guarantee the accuracy due to Honda's build program as listed before
9922
« on: April 01, 2009, 04:56:38 AM »
use a loose hacksaw blade carefully to cut a slot so it will collapse.
Also buy new collar as well as bushes as it wears more than bushes
9923
« on: March 30, 2009, 04:55:10 AM »
US site is not always correct as Honda were VERY sneeky and all at the same time were building
CB500 K2 for the USA
CB500 K1 for the UK/Europe (smaller clocks, indicators,rear light ETC) Some frame numbers begin 20*****
CB550 K0 for the next model year in US
This makes it incredibly difficult to guesstimate the build year of a 73 ish UK bike and the only way to be 100% certain is pay the money to Honda UK for a dating letter
9924
« on: March 28, 2009, 02:03:56 PM »
Dont understand why 4LS instead of disc and i didnt think the 550 was "historic" enough to qualify for period racing. 550 is normaly reliable but anything that is tuned heavily gets finicky
9925
« on: March 28, 2009, 02:00:05 PM »
I thought VJMC only gave Model year, only people i know that get the actual Manufacture year correct is Honda
9926
« on: March 28, 2009, 06:51:06 AM »
Mike dont shout (turn off the caps lock) I have a list of early numbers and can tell you how to get the proof you need, registered on 3/7 may not be 72 but it is possible.
Email me direct with the number if you dont want to post it here
9927
« on: March 25, 2009, 04:43:12 PM »
Depends on the year, the 77 onwards being worse than the early ones, not as critical as the old 350 which would shatter rings if pushed hard from cold
9928
« on: March 25, 2009, 04:06:52 AM »
750 has bigger discs, if you want to use the 500 size get the 550 lowers but all will fit on the legs.
Original relay was 3 pin but the Yanks use a 2 pin and yes all bulbs have to be correct size, working and eathed properly---usualy needs the engine running to charge battery to get a regular flash rate as well
9929
« on: March 23, 2009, 04:53:23 PM »
+1 on the set as you will need new "pucks" and "O" rings
9930
« on: March 23, 2009, 07:39:59 AM »
Just make sure all is spotlessly clean on reassembly with new gaskets and "O" rings.
Always worth checking how hard the camchain tensioner rollers are as well
ALWAYS fit a new tacho drive seal as its easier with the cover out
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