Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: sye on March 09, 2019, 11:28:58 AM
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Things are moving on but I'm very busy with work, so don't have as much time as I would like to get on with it. Hey-ho, that's life. ::)
Thanks to Mick for the switchgear, which I rewired and is now fitted to the bike. Graham is absolutely right about the headlight on/off switch positioning as I found out. Once the switch is located with the pin, it leaves a gap exactly the correct size for the switch as shown in the (blurry) picture. If it's still not correct in any way don't tell me as this is how it's going to be. ;D
I have fitted an Electrex combined reg/rec and fitted a Scottoiler in the freed up space. I've also moved the electronic ignition to somewhere better than just shoved down the space between the mudguard and battery and thought I would share the locations with you. I think it looks very tidy and can't be seen once the side panels are on.
Still lots to do and I will post more pictures as i go.
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looking good
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Looking great Sye
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Coming along great.
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I managed to realign the aftermarket exhaust brackets yesterday and get the right side silencers lined up quite well. I've routed the throttle and clutch cables as per the great advice on here and replaced the coils and plug caps. Chain guard cleaned up quite well for a piece of scratched black plastic and Scottoiler install finalised.
Left side silencers today and then a quick check over of all bolts, rig a remote fuel supply and start it. Carb balance to follow, then the final bits and pieces before a test ride. Can't wait! 8)
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We'll done Sye, its looking wonderful and I just love this moment, its always so exciting.
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Comming on well Sye good luck with the start up always a milestone.
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i agree with you oddjob, looks very awkward for the indicator switch.
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Trig wires this switch in as a high / low switch and not as an on/ off switch. Most of these old Hondas, not all, have the hi /low on the switch gear that side, so he does it for continuity when riding so many different bike. We know where it is without thinking about it and that is a safety measure.
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I'm still going to tell you, the switch is in the WRONG place. It meant to sit inboard of the main switch, on the small piece of bar which is still flat. If the gap is still left there between the grip and the switch I'd suggest you have the wrong grips, there is no gap there as standard, have you measured the grip and the amount of bar protruding when the switch is located? are they the same? although you say it's staying as it is consider this, the switch was introduced to stop the lights being accidentally switched off, as in the K0 switchgear, it's entirely possible you'll knock the switch going for the indicators etc and end up with no lights on a dark country road and I'll leave you to think on what may happen if that does occur. It's your bike but to me it looks horrible fitted there.
Oddjob, the bars are new ones for a 550, with the reinforced cable runs and switch locating holes. With the switch in the locating holes there is a gap on the left hand side that is exactly the same as the headlight on/off switch. The grips are not the hard as a hard thing ones but they are from DSS and the same size. The choices I had were to snap the locating pin and move the switch next to the grip, modify the switch and leave a portion of cable showing or to put the on/off switch in the gap. I chose to do the latter.
I still think that Graham is correct for a number of reasons. If you put it inboard then it has to be a long way in to clear the lever perch and just looks wrong. It looks correct where it is but I can see your thinking. It does block the indicator switch slightly but I don't think you could operate the switch by accident.
Moved on a bit this afternoon and got the left side exhausts fitted and lined up. It does seem that the key seems to be ensuring that the bracket dimensions are exactly correct. A couple of mm off and they just don't line up.
As an aside, I'm rather chuffed with the Scottoiler sprocket feed. It is secure, appears to work well and tucked right out of the way. Even better, I managed to retain the derailment plate so I'm well chuffed.
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I've just done a bit of a search in relation to where this switch goes and can find it in both places. :-\
The first picture is poor but from a German road test in 1972. This shows it between the grip and the switch. The second is the cover of the K1 haynes manual, which shows it inboard.
The only way to know for sure would be from a European genuine Honda brochure or PDI manual from 1972. The only stuff I can find online is US stuff and they didn't have it fitted.
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On my UK spec CB500 K1 (that I believe has the original handle bars and switch fitted) the headlight on/off switch is located inboard of the left side switch cluster. I also owned two new bikes of the same type in the 1970's and on both the switch was fitted as mine is now, inboard.
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On my UK spec CB500 K1 (that I believe has the original handle bars and switch fitted) the headlight on/off switch is located inboard of the left side switch cluster. I also owned two new bikes of the same type in the 1970's and on both the switch was fitted as mine is now, inboard.
I wonder if you could do me a favour and measure the grip length if you get a chance please? Mine are 125mm or 5" approx.
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As an aside but still relevant I feel, is the distance between the grip and the switch if positioned in board frim the main switch gear. This is my hand on the grip and the tip of my thumb only just reaches the indicator switch with my thumb at full stretch. For me to operate the head lamp on / off switch fitted in the inboard position, I would have to take my hand off the grip completely. Now, I know you only usually turn the head lamp on and off once at each ride but for me, personally, I don't think that's right. Yes, I know my hands are small but....just saying.[attachimg=1]
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The grip length is 5 1/8" and the switch sits 3/4" inboard of the switch cluster. I have just taken (probably a poor) photograph of it that you are welcome to if you send me an e-mail address (I cannot manage to put photographs on the forum!) and may also have a better one from the past, I will look.
I've never thought anything of the headlamp on/off switch position, it all seems easy enough to operate for me and, as previously mentioned, both of my other bikes were the same.
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I agree with what everyone is saying about inboard placement and outboard. Our switch is positioned there and wired in as dip / beam because that's the way it suits us.
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Another milestone this morning. Connected the batter, turned the key and checked the electrics. Everything works as it should including the H4 headlight conversion. Indicators, side lights, brake light, parking light, high and low beam and headlight on/off switch all checked correct.
Was going to start the engine, balance the carbs and time up the electronic ignition but can't just yet. I have a remote fuel tank but no splitter to feed two banks, so tried to find one locally. No chance and had to order online. Wait a few days then give it a go over the weekend.
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One step forward, two steps back. Started it this afternoon with a remote fuel supply. It started fine, oil light went out and noticed exhaust(s) blowing from the head. Tightened a little and started again and bingo, all sealed. That's the positives.
Negatives, misfire from #1 and a smell of petrol. A quick look confirmed dripping out of the overflows on #1, #3 and #4, bolleux! Need to investigate the misfire, carbs off, float height etc before I go any further. :'(
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Sooooo close Sye 👍👍👍👍
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Sooooo close Sye 👍👍👍👍
I know and I could kick myself. Before I fitted the carbs I was going to bench test them with fuel to check that they dibn't overflow. If I'd have built them I would have but with Gerben doing them I felt sure they would be fine. Just shows to go you, never assume...
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Sooooo close Sye 👍👍👍👍
I know and I could kick myself. Before I fitted the carbs I was going to bench test them with fuel to check that they dibn't overflow. If I'd have built them I would have but with Gerben doing them I felt sure they would be fine. Just shows to go you, never assume...
Worth checking but would be strange if Gerben had not set the float heights correctly. The carbs on my CB550/4 pissed fuel out of the overflows on initial start up quite often last year. I have had the carbs apart this winter, float heights were fine, just when i set them last year after Trig built the carbs but i had a lazy float valve which may account for 1 of them over flowing but not the others. I will find out next week if i have achieved anything with my winter fettling.