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Topics - PHILIP2908
16
« on: January 10, 2020, 08:53:25 PM »
I’ve done some dumb things on motorcycles, mostly going round corners too fast and falling off.
However, this takes some beating and relates to my recent post about swopping out my Lester alloy wheels for spoked wheels.
This necessitated taking of both wheels at the same time so I could get the tyres swopped over; leaving the bike balanced on the centre-stand, axle stands under the footpegs and a trolley jack under the crankcase.
Duh, dumb thing to do was soon as I removed the rear wheel the trolley jack slipped and over it went; the studs on the bottom of the forks thunking into the floor.
It was only by inserting the new rear wheel and getting the wife to sit on the pillion that got the front-end back into the air allowing me to get the front wheel on.
I was reminded that we are dealing with a motorcycle that weighs a quarter of a ton and they can be a bit dangerous when they go rogue. Go careful in the workshop!
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17
« on: November 09, 2019, 08:21:45 PM »
Hello All,
I've been a member for a few years now and always wondered why I'm still a 'newbie'.... I've figured out its the number of posts and need to get to 50 for the next level. So here's another! Bit of background:
I bought the DK special about 4 years ago and had various problems; leaking head gasket, had to take the engine out, stripped threads in a cylinder head (which was seemingly made out of Lurpak) and dozens of other things. Plus getting worked to death in my sales job ('if you don't sell enough then you get the chop'), decorating demands from the chief fairy, 2 teenage daughters ("you're not going out like that") and a multitude of other things that have got in the way of getting my 750 back on the road.
Next summer is the target and one of the things I have to do over the winter is swop the Lester magnesium wheels for spoked items. (the Lesters will be for sale soon)
To this end I bought a couple of spoked wheels off ebay just so I could get the hubs (the Lesters have the hubs cast into the wheel). I've started with the front and after reading the CB750 book by Mark Paris, I noted the fact that the front wheel is offset, from new, 3mm towards the left (as you are sitting on the bike). This was done so the racing fraternity could fit another disc on the right without too much modification. But this means that the front and rear tyres follow different paths and give rise to head wobble; something I remember from my old K2 which I restored in 1992.
The question is: as I am about to build the front wheel with a new rim and spokes, should I move the rim over to the right by 1,5mm so the wheels follow the same path?
I don't know if it's clear enough in the photo but the measurement on the speedo drive side to the fork leg is 33mm and on the disc side to the fork leg is 30mm. A move of 1.5mm towards the disc would correct this. Apparently dealers complained back in the day as when the 750s were on display in the showrooms they had to bend the front mudguard to make the wheel appear central other wise they looked a little odd. Have you looked at yours?
Apologies if this has been covered before, but a search of the site using 'wheels' results in 000's of posts which I don't have time to read.
In the photo, check how roached out the rim I bough
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t is. And the crappy Dave Silver fork gaiters that disintegrated after 12 months - one of the worst £18 I've ever spent.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Phil in Cheltenham.
18
« on: October 13, 2019, 08:48:46 PM »
Hello,
As part of the project to replace the Lester wheels on my CB750, I bought a spoked front wheel from a CB550 after being told this would fit.
Is this true? they are both 19" but are the offset, fittings, speedo drive etc the same?
Or have I been 'done'?
Ride safe.
Best regards,
Phil
19
« on: April 21, 2019, 12:32:55 PM »
Hello all,
I did a search for this but had no success; the K2 now has its UK reg and thought I'd have a little run down the road to see if all was OK and the b**** won't start.
Its been idle for a couple of months as life got in the way but nothing has been touched since it was running fine.
There's no spark at the plugs 1/4 or 2/3 - so I thought dirty points (something that always stopped my CD175 sloper) so cleaned and gapped them, checked the static timing and nothing.
Strange thing is that with the ignition on, opening the points with my finger, there is a spark there but not further down the line at the plug.
I don't get it (and before you ask the kill switch is at 'run').
Thanks in advance all.
Regards
Phil
20
« on: February 26, 2019, 07:56:39 AM »
Hello Chums,
Things have been progressing slowly as the life / work balance goes to pot. However, I finally got round to filling out the DVLA form to get an age related plate, sent it with the USA title, NOVA, VJMC dating letter and money and back it came as an 'N' reg. That was easier than I thought.
I am now applying my mind to getting some plates made up - for my cars I've always used TIPPERS in Cornwall as with a bit of Solvol AutoSol they shine up really well.
The question for you my friends is: do I go for a two line or 3 line rear number plate? By 3 line I mean that the year letter appears on its own at the base of the plate; a bit like some old Triumphs you see. Or have a 2 line where the year letter appears beside the three numbers. To my mind the latter may be more representative of old Hondas from the 70's. Whaddaya think?
Also I will be getting some curved plates for the front mudguard - Tippers do the mountings for £15. Photo may appear below.
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Stay safe.
Phil.
21
« on: April 18, 2017, 10:08:44 PM »
Well I tried to get the previously running K2 going again, but no joy.
When the starter button is pressed, I still only get 10.5 volts at the solenoid which is not enough to trigger it - just can't figure it out. I'm fairly handy with electrics (or so I thought). The (new) solenoid clicks when connected to the fully charged (new) 12v battery. And there is continuity across red/black wires when the (new) ignition switch is moved to position 1. Why is it that there is only 10.5v in the black wire circuit? That's ok for lights, horn and indicators but not enough for the solenoid.
Its been sat on the centre-stand since Sept and hasn't moved, and it will sit there until I (or someone else) can figure it out.
I got so cheesed off I got the Mercedes out which started on the button after 6 months in the garage (I only tax it for 6 months - I refuse to pay £250 or so for a full year). MoT next week and off into the sunshine - the K2 can stay where it is.
Any ideas anybody; rectifier, safe start device, something else.....
Thanks in advance.
Phil
22
« on: March 25, 2017, 10:48:10 PM »
You might remember me posting about the disaterous delivery of the above book - the DPD driver dropped the package in to a puddle on its corner and some water ingress took place damaging the book. After loads of emails I finally have a replacement which means the original book is no longer needed. So the fairest way was to stick it on Flea Bay - seemed the most logical thing to do. Please see:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162444809699?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649Its a hell of a book and should be as I've never paid £65 for a paperback before. My bike still hasn't been off the centre-stand since before my op in September and to be honest I've lost a bit of interest due to the electrics not doing what they are supposed to do. If you are out in the sunshine; ride safe. Phil d'A
23
« on: February 28, 2017, 11:09:46 PM »
Hello all,
I've been pondering for some time as to whether or not I could justify spending £65 on the paperback book mentioned above. Well I did, and it turned up yesterday, delivered to a neighbour courtesy of NPD.
As you can see the bozo who dropped it off dropped it corner first into a puddle beforehand. The consequence is that the very good quality paper just hovered up the moisture resulting in the mess below. Still readable (and a good read it looks too) but this really gets my goat and I will be claiming a replacement book from LuLu or seeking compensation from the white van fleet of muppets that delivered it.
Bring on the drones....
24
« on: February 12, 2017, 09:29:42 AM »
Hi All,
Tried to start the DK special yesterday (had it running before) and it was DEAD.
I'm only getting 10 volts at the solenoid when the button is pressed - the battery is fully charged.
Is it something to with this? (photo should be attached).
The yellow/red & black wires disappear inside and don't come out,
It's described as a safety switch and it looks as though it's dropped down previously and got mangled up in the drive chain. Which won't have helped...
- How does it work?
- How does it come apart?
- Can it be bypassed?
- Can it be fixed?
As always any ideas welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
Phil d'A
25
« on: January 05, 2017, 10:53:40 AM »
Hello All,
HNY.
Tried to put the tank back on last night and as its all been apart for so long, I couldn't remember how the throttle cables were routed underneath.
Anybody got a pic of the left side with the tank off?
I've got them running over the top of the coils and it doesn't seem right as they are slightly kinked (even though they work ok).
Thanks in advance.
26
« on: November 20, 2016, 03:58:20 PM »
I posted about this before but couldn't find the thread.
Basically the 750 is a DK Special requiring loads of work and parts including a new head gasket. Engine removed, head skimmed, put together and ran fine; except for a big oil leak from front of the valve cover gasket. Apparently it is easy to put these on upside down and because the cam box is not symmetrical, it will leak - well Haynes never said 'owt about it.
Looking at it; the engine would have to come out again as the valve cover cannot be lifted off in situ. I couldn't face that as I've been in hospital having a new valve (heart) of my own so can't lift anything heavy - break the ribs again see. Ask Julie.
So I saw some chappie on You Tube change the gasket by undoing the 14 screws and lifting it up. So that's what I did (see photos if they made it through) and was fairly fiddly including having to remove the coils which was a right pain.
Just ordered a new genuine gasket off DS for £20 (WHAT !!), and will fit it and let you know the outcome.
Cheers
Phil
27
« on: September 12, 2016, 12:32:55 PM »
Hi All,
Finally got the K2 running down the road, went through the gears and all seems to work so think I will keep it. Ran like a dog though due (I think) over -
fuelling; had petrol dropping out the over-flow tubes and ran on 2/3 cylinders, black smoke from exhausts, smells like my local Texaco etc.
I'm pretty sure the floats were OK and I checked the heights. So can only be worn out needle valves is my guess. Or am I missing something? Whaddaya think everybody? Any advice welcomed before I shell out £30 to DS for a set of new ones.
Also, a bigger problem may be the oil leak I have at the front of the cam box. This is where the cam chain throws off its oil. It has a new gasket there and I'm pretty sure I tightened up all the screws and bolts to the correct torque (7ftlbs). The question is with the tank off and the breather box off, is it possible to get at the screws and tighten them up? If I've got to take the engine out again I'll scream blue murder !!
28
« on: September 03, 2016, 08:33:31 PM »
Hi All,
Had a good day in the garage today and was mostly struggling to get the 4 into 2 exhaust system to fit properly. A wooden mallet helped. Its an unusual system in that cylinders 1 & 4 are connected as is 2 & 3 which gives rise to an unusual sound. I've started but haven't ridden the bike yet but when I eventually get the bike down the road and decide its a 'keeper' I'll shell out for a set of 4 pipes.
There's a little way to go yet. Bit of a horror in whats under under the LH side panel ! Can anyone tell me / post a photo of how it all should be arranged? The solenoid, fuse box, flasher relay and safety circuit box all hang free. the previous owner in Colorado USA must have had shares in Scotchlock connectors - even found them inside the handle bar switch gear.
If I were to do this again, I'd certainly check the head gasket for leaks, as that's why the engine had to come out and it has taken a huge amount of time. Bought it in October 2015 and only now getting to the point where I can ride it. I'd also check for any missing parts and add up what needs replacing as so far I've spent about £700 at David Silver and on eBay for bits like the centre stand which was missing, hoses, pads, gaskets, swing arm bushes and spindle; tons of stuff.
I'll let you know how it runs when I finally get my leg over it which will hopefully be this week.
Ride safe.
Cheers
Phil
29
« on: August 31, 2016, 12:13:07 PM »
Back in 1969 I owned a C100 50cc Cub but drooled over the CB175 etc in the Honda brochure. Getting to the end of the brochure I dribbled even more at the CB750 and then on the back cover was this photo (should be attached) which blew me away. As a spotty 17 year old I thought that guy was so cool!
Since then I've always wanted a Candy Red CB750. I've had a Planet Blue K2 and now have a Sunrise Orange K2; the paint is a bit scabby so think I'll change it to Candy Red.
The question is though: were there ever any Candy Red K2s (in the UK or USA)? Or was it just K0's and K1's?
Thanks in advance.
30
« on: August 14, 2016, 09:44:31 AM »
Hi all,
Having a laugh a minute this weekend trying to get the old bushes out of the swinging arm; heat, hammers and swearing have all been used to no effect,
Q 1. Anybody got any ideas?
I'm fast approaching the point where I'm going to hacksaw a slot in each bush to get them out.
As recommended, I bought some bushes from Frank in Germany and they are totes different to what I have taken off.
Q2. Do I discard the felt washer, the washer with the rim and the dust cap? Or have I got the wrong parts? They are also sloppy on the central machined tube they sit on so it looks as though I'm going to need a new one of these too.
As always, thanks in advance for any wisdom.
Phil
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