This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - PHILIP2908
31
« on: May 04, 2021, 08:28:18 AM »
Hello everybody.
Just looking at billdn’s problems with setting ignition timing; a comment by my fellow Gloucestershire resident, Bryan, forced me to look at my 750 (still fighting me after 5 years – it WILL be on the road this summer).
It relates to the 22mm nut on the end of the crank and how you should not use this to turn the engine over whilst the plugs are in.
A previous owner seems to have done this and I noticed that the nut wiggles gently around gently, scribing an oval pattern, noticeable even when turning over on the starter. Still runs though.
I seem to remember that the cam & advance/retard plate and cam sits on a 6mm screw thread which is drilled into the end of the crank and mine is obviously bent which will upset the points gap.
Two questions;
1. How can I replace the threaded portion emanating from the right-hand crank end? Is it screwed in? Please don’t tell me I have to take the crank out !
2. Could this problem be solved by installing an electronic ignition system such as the one from Dave Silver or Hondaman?
Any advice appreciated. TIA.
Regards,
Phil
32
« on: April 14, 2021, 08:25:09 AM »
Hi Andrew,
Just had a peep at my K0 and there is no ViN plate; only stamped numbers & letters on the left hand side of the headstock.
Let us know what the bike is like.
Cheers
Phil
33
« on: April 12, 2021, 11:03:14 AM »
Hello,
I was prompted to go in the snow this morning and take some pics of my XL250 K0 to see if it was a UK spec bike, which I’m sure it is.
It’s a 1975 P reg, I bought it in 1989 and its still only got 1,100 miles on the clock – that’s all on green lanes – tremendous fun.
Usual story: kids, house moves, busy job – all conspired to prevent me from using it and hasn’t been started for nearly 20 years (but regularly turned it over with the kick starter). ‘Lock down’ was supposed to be the time I was going to restore it; but guess what: the CB750 K2 DK/DS special got in the way by fighting me every inch of the way with leaks, electrical gremlins etc (I was going to take it out for the first time this week but now there’s 2 inches of snow).
Looking at the XL:
• The clock faces are green
• There is a warning limit from 60mph on the speedo
• The fork gaiters are not original
• There is no stencil ‘HONDA’ on the back of the seat. I think all UK bikes were like this
When I got it I was warned not to leave it idling when on the side stand as this would starve the cam of oil – I runs directly in the head. Mine was pretty scabby when I took it apart so had it converted to roller bearings. This cost £120 in 1990.
If you are going to look at one be mindful of the side casings: these are magnesium and can corrode to white dust.
The exhaust rots through and when available from Dave Silver they are £275 each. Of course I need one and they don’t have any.
One of the best bikes I’ve owned – its an s.o.h.c. innit !
Phil [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
34
« on: April 05, 2021, 03:37:49 PM »
Hello all,
The DK/DS Special is still fighting me like its done for the past 5 years.
I'm almost there, got insured (Motorcycle Direct of Bristol - £79 for an old fogey), its off SORN, new helmet but it still doesn't run properly.
Start up is instant but it pops and bangs through the 1-4 cylinder silencer and when revving it actually spits flame. Me thinking I've got the valve timing wrong and that the engine has to come out again. But a bit more investigation revealed that all the valve clearances had gone down to not very much; and on some there is no play at al.I remember that I set the clearances when it was on the bench and just a few start ups has settled the valves back in the seats and eliminating the gap - exhaust valve stays open and that's why I get flames... at least I hope that is what it is.
The question is: it is difficult, even when I had one in the 1980s, to get a feeler gauge in there, with a ring spanner and my fat fingers and a torch, so I was wondering if at least to get it running I could set the clearances by counting the number of turns on the screw?
I seem to remember a post, but can't find it, that one turn of the screw = 0.1mm or 40 thou. So from that perspective you should be able to set a gap fairly accurately even if not exactly.
A good idea or not?
35
« on: January 26, 2021, 07:24:55 PM »
Hello all,
I restored a couple of small Hondas (C100s & C72s) in the late 80s culminating in a CB750 K2 resto in 1989. Frame off, powdercoat, chrome, NOS parts etc, a real proper job and people thought I was a bit mad and wasting money.
Back then there wasn’t much of an ‘after-market replacement’ supply of parts; China hadn’t even got going then. But it was easy because there were plenty of wrecked CB750s and new OE parts that dealers wanted to be rid of as CB750s weren’t as desirable then, as they are now. Trading was conducted by placing and scouring the classifieds in MCN and Exchange & Mart (this was the bible) and using the old school telephone – no internet then… and one of the best deals I got was a full set of four pipes, used but rust free, off a crashed bike for just £75.
Sold it for £1800 when I got into classic cars and really wish I’d kept it, but just didn’t have the room.
The point of this is; that the chap who did my chroming also took my large box of nuts & bolts, put them into a perforated bucket and dipped them in something. A week later, they didn’t come back shiny, but an even silver/grey colour, not unlike galvanizing.
The question is: what was that process: nickelling, zincing, anodizing or something else? Its been 30 years and I’ve forgotten (along with many other things).
As always, all answers gratefully received.
Thanks in advance
Phil
36
« on: January 25, 2021, 09:32:41 AM »
Hello,
Dennis & Leadnaval: Thank you both; really helpful. I know what I have to do today - extract the loom from beneath the coils (which will have to come out as that's what's jamming the throttle cables and everything else in that triangular gusset) and lay the wiring as shown in your photos/diagram.
Thanks for taking the time.
Stay safe.
Phil.
37
« on: January 23, 2021, 08:23:53 PM »
Flippin' photo upside down again ! Just how do you attach a photo that's the right way up?
38
« on: January 23, 2021, 08:21:17 PM »
No not jeans. This is a head scratcher for me as my DK Special from the USA has been thrown down the road numerous times and suffered less than perfect rebuilds after its many accidents.
One example of this I the way the loom passes beneath the tank. Currently it is squeezed though the triangular gusset just behind the coils. This interferes with the operation of the push-pull throttle cables to the extent that the throttle will not shut on it own as the cables are kinked. There is just not enough room in there.
One of my lockdown projects was to change the handlebar from the horrible USA aftermarket ‘cowhorn’ bars into a more European and flatter spec; I’ll do another post on that as that is proving to be a right giggle as well. This necessitates the disconnection of all the wires in the headlamp shell and I thought I’d re-route the loom at the same time as everything was undone.
The question I have, is, should the loom that runs from the battery area to the headlamp, be routed:
- Strapped to the thick top tube that supports the top of the headstock
Or
- Strapped to the thinner lower left hand tube that runs under the tank
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
As always, all answers gratefully received.
Thanks in advance
Phil
39
« on: January 14, 2021, 08:26:11 AM »
Don't know why my photos appear up side down.... [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
40
« on: January 14, 2021, 08:24:20 AM »
Does anybody follow Andy Mechanic on You Tube? During lockdown, I’ve been bingeing on Allen Millyard videos and came across Andy Mechanic. He’s a Yorkshire lad I think, living in New Zealand and works as a lecturer. He is fault finding on a friend’s CB750 at the moment and the video on chasing a weak spark is really good as he explains things really well for electrical dummies like me. There are over 300 videos; goes on a bit so they are a bit lengthy and also has scantily dressed young women walking around doing some tasks – obviously to bump up the number of subscribers (gets more money off You Tube see). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4HRPsTPl0AWorth a watch. Stay safe. Phil. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
41
« on: January 13, 2021, 10:34:17 AM »
Thanks to everybody for the advice given on what impact wrench to buy. I finally decided on a Clarke ½” drive corded version for £72. I decided on corded rather than battery because 1) I didn’t want yet another battery and charger (should have gone the Ryobi route from day one), and 2) as I’m 66 now, God willing, I might have another 10 years messing about with bikes. So, in that 10 years I would use the rattle gun maybe 4 times a year and if all the trigger times are added together, a total running time of 1 minute every year or 10 minutes total. Didn’t make sense. Also, a corded version is smaller to get into tight spots.
As I’m never more than 10 yards from a 13 amp socket, I figured corded was the way to go.
Anyway, the first job I had lined up was getting a seized 4 pot caliper off the Merc; these are held on by 2 x 10mm hex heads and the correct socket with a metre long breaker bar wouldn’t shift them. What Mercedes do on the production line is to marinate the bolts in Loctite for 24 hours then spin them in to a gazillion ftlbs torque; they then get drenched with rainwater, salt and crud for 30 years and they are as good as welded in.
But hey, the rattle gun worked! But what I wasn’t prepared for was the sheer violence of the operation; it tried to spin out of my hand, battered my ears with a cacophony of noise, blurred my vision and showered me in rust dust, brake dust and bits of mud that fell out of the wheel-arch on the back of my neck. Not fun.
The next job was the counter-sunk 6mm screw that holds the disc on to the hub. This also could not be moved with hammering on the end of an impact driver. So, I thought no problem; I changed the hex socket and all my senses were assaulted again and it just snapped the head off. Bummer ! So I’ve got that to drill out today.
So, all in all, a great tool but just have to be careful where I use it.
Thanks again for all the advice from the forum – really helpful. That’s just how forums should be.
Stay safe.
Phil.
42
« on: December 26, 2020, 09:25:01 AM »
Hello All,
Hope you had a good day yesterday. I did and got an Amazon voucher in amongst all the socks and scarves.
I have been thinking about getting an electric rattle gun as I've struggled with rusty nuts on bikes (and cars) since about 1968 - I've rounded more corners than Lewis Hamilton. It will have to deal with hub nuts, clutch centre nuts and wheel bolts.
The questions are:
- Best brand - I want to stick to De Walt, Makita, Ryobi if possible.
- Corded or cordless - I favour a corded one as I don't want yet another battery charger.
- Budget is about £100 - £125.
Any recommendations or advice welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Have a good new year (its got to be better than the last one...)
43
« on: November 05, 2020, 09:23:04 PM »
Hello all,
My DK import arrived (4 years and still fiddling to get it on the road) with no return throttle cable - I always like to have one in case one of those 4 x carbs decide to stick open and shove you through a hedge backwards.
I ordered a cable from DS but how does it get to the carbs? At the moment I have the loom, the 'pull' throttle cable trying to fit through the triangle brace at the top of the frame. The coils make this all the more difficult as everything has to fit down the left hand side of these.
Does anyone have a 'tank off' photo showing the routing of everything that has to squeeze through the tank tunnel?
Thanks in advance.
44
« on: November 05, 2020, 09:14:16 PM »
Hello all, I have always used NAMRICK in Brighton https://www.namrick.co.uk/Mail order only at the moment, but good website and whatever you need is sitting on your doormat within a couple of days.
45
« on: May 09, 2020, 09:51:03 AM »
As BryanJ says, its very easy to get the rocker box cover gasket on upside down. I did this and had oil dribbling out the front of the engine after a re-build but was able to change it with the engine still in the frame. See You Tube at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2orch75W2uIIf that link doesn't work, search for CB750 VALVE COVER GASKET CHANGE Might save you having to pull the motor out again.
|
Show Posts