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Messages - PHILIP2908
46
« on: May 03, 2020, 10:52:58 AM »
Hi Again,
My dentist used UV bonding on my fillings; just plastered it on and shone a light into my mouth for 20 secs. Strong stuff, still holding together 12 months later.
47
« on: January 10, 2020, 08:59:53 PM »
If this doesn't work, I give up
48
« on: January 10, 2020, 08:57:45 PM »
Photo was upside down - try this.... [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
49
« on: January 10, 2020, 08:53:25 PM »
I’ve done some dumb things on motorcycles, mostly going round corners too fast and falling off.
However, this takes some beating and relates to my recent post about swopping out my Lester alloy wheels for spoked wheels.
This necessitated taking of both wheels at the same time so I could get the tyres swopped over; leaving the bike balanced on the centre-stand, axle stands under the footpegs and a trolley jack under the crankcase.
Duh, dumb thing to do was soon as I removed the rear wheel the trolley jack slipped and over it went; the studs on the bottom of the forks thunking into the floor.
It was only by inserting the new rear wheel and getting the wife to sit on the pillion that got the front-end back into the air allowing me to get the front wheel on.
I was reminded that we are dealing with a motorcycle that weighs a quarter of a ton and they can be a bit dangerous when they go rogue. Go careful in the workshop!
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50
« on: December 24, 2019, 01:29:57 PM »
Hello all,
I speak from bitter experience on the subject of condensation, mould and chrome decaying before your very eyes and the strange feeling of desperation all this brings.
Its all to do with airflow and keeping the inside air temperature close to that outside. If there’s a big difference, and by opening a door and the two air masses meet, there will be a formation of condensation.
I had one of those Compton garages once, made from pre-fab concrete panels; these just didn’t ‘breathe’ and help equalize the two temperatures. So, at about 11.00 in the morning on a bright spring sunny day, the air temperature had risen but that in the garage was pretty much as it was during the cold night. On several occasions, I would open the up-and-over door, the warm air would rush in, meet the cold air and believe me a cloud would form momentarily.
Now I have a garage constructed from breeze block and brick; this allows the garage to breathe and is condensation free. A vent in the window also helps and I don’t bother with a dehumidifier.
So to me the key is ventilation and keeping the temperatures as equal as possible.
Hope that gives some ideas.
Have a great Christmas and the 750 K2 WILL be on the road next year.
Cheers
Phil
51
« on: November 09, 2019, 08:21:45 PM »
Hello All,
I've been a member for a few years now and always wondered why I'm still a 'newbie'.... I've figured out its the number of posts and need to get to 50 for the next level. So here's another! Bit of background:
I bought the DK special about 4 years ago and had various problems; leaking head gasket, had to take the engine out, stripped threads in a cylinder head (which was seemingly made out of Lurpak) and dozens of other things. Plus getting worked to death in my sales job ('if you don't sell enough then you get the chop'), decorating demands from the chief fairy, 2 teenage daughters ("you're not going out like that") and a multitude of other things that have got in the way of getting my 750 back on the road.
Next summer is the target and one of the things I have to do over the winter is swop the Lester magnesium wheels for spoked items. (the Lesters will be for sale soon)
To this end I bought a couple of spoked wheels off ebay just so I could get the hubs (the Lesters have the hubs cast into the wheel). I've started with the front and after reading the CB750 book by Mark Paris, I noted the fact that the front wheel is offset, from new, 3mm towards the left (as you are sitting on the bike). This was done so the racing fraternity could fit another disc on the right without too much modification. But this means that the front and rear tyres follow different paths and give rise to head wobble; something I remember from my old K2 which I restored in 1992.
The question is: as I am about to build the front wheel with a new rim and spokes, should I move the rim over to the right by 1,5mm so the wheels follow the same path?
I don't know if it's clear enough in the photo but the measurement on the speedo drive side to the fork leg is 33mm and on the disc side to the fork leg is 30mm. A move of 1.5mm towards the disc would correct this. Apparently dealers complained back in the day as when the 750s were on display in the showrooms they had to bend the front mudguard to make the wheel appear central other wise they looked a little odd. Have you looked at yours?
Apologies if this has been covered before, but a search of the site using 'wheels' results in 000's of posts which I don't have time to read.
In the photo, check how roached out the rim I bough
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t is. And the crappy Dave Silver fork gaiters that disintegrated after 12 months - one of the worst £18 I've ever spent.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Phil in Cheltenham.
52
« on: October 13, 2019, 08:48:46 PM »
Hello,
As part of the project to replace the Lester wheels on my CB750, I bought a spoked front wheel from a CB550 after being told this would fit.
Is this true? they are both 19" but are the offset, fittings, speedo drive etc the same?
Or have I been 'done'?
Ride safe.
Best regards,
Phil
53
« on: October 11, 2019, 07:51:03 AM »
Interesting point about a bike from Colorado - the elevation there is 7,000 feet so the air is a lot thinner. My DK special was from the same state and the needles were set to provide a richer mixture. So when it got to sleepy old Cheltenham (elevation 247ft) it ran rich and blew black smoke out the back. I have yet to fix this but have managed to jigger up one of the screws holding the needle in place by not using a JiS screwdriver. But that another story...
54
« on: May 22, 2019, 10:09:28 PM »
Right crew. Its been over a month and the CB750 is still lifeless. My job and family has got in the way so I haven't had the time to do much about it but believe me I'm getting close to pushing it off a cliff.
I've been tinkering and fiddling with contact breaker point powered vehicles from Hillman Imps to Morgans and C100s, C72s, CD175s etc and I well know that dirty or mis-set points will not allow the vehicle to run. The problem continues with the CB750 which is a USA import K3. There is a spark at the points but none at the plugs.
I've just had a flick though Mark Paris's book and its reminded me of the 'logic gate'. I don't know why its there or what it does (bit like an appendix). But it's there as a 1 inch square cube that is sealed and cannot be opened. Wires going in are:
-Light green/red
-Black
-Green
-Yellow/red
So what does all that lot do?? Is there a way of by-passing it or chopping it out?
The bike has not got side-stand or clutch switch.
I'd be grateful for any help otherwise I'll be down the white cliffs of Dover fairly soon.
Thanks in advance for any ideas...
55
« on: May 12, 2019, 08:51:53 AM »
Hi,
Great rebuild story and look forward to each episode.
Looks as though you are lucky to have a good & dry garage to do your rebuild in. The only advice I can offer is to get some cheapo white emulsion from B&Q and throw it on the walls - with any available light now multiplied, the difference this makes is amazing.
Keep it up !!
Phil @ Cheltenham
56
« on: April 21, 2019, 12:32:55 PM »
Hello all,
I did a search for this but had no success; the K2 now has its UK reg and thought I'd have a little run down the road to see if all was OK and the b**** won't start.
Its been idle for a couple of months as life got in the way but nothing has been touched since it was running fine.
There's no spark at the plugs 1/4 or 2/3 - so I thought dirty points (something that always stopped my CD175 sloper) so cleaned and gapped them, checked the static timing and nothing.
Strange thing is that with the ignition on, opening the points with my finger, there is a spark there but not further down the line at the plug.
I don't get it (and before you ask the kill switch is at 'run').
Thanks in advance all.
Regards
Phil
57
« on: March 02, 2019, 08:34:07 AM »
Hi again, I'm going for ally plates on black; the letters & numbers shine up really well with a polish. I've looked at loads of photos from the '70s and decided to go for a 2 line plate and a pair of curved for the front mudguard. A 3 line plate for the rear just wouldn't look right in my mind; OK on Brit Iron but not a 70s Honda. Take a look at https://www.tippersvintageplates.co.uk/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/tippers?opendocument&part=6Cheers Phil
58
« on: February 26, 2019, 08:20:39 AM »
Hi,
It took about 10 days to get the V5.
Downside is they keep the VJMC dating letter (you have to send the original which has an embossed stamp) and the American title (which has a watermark); so make copies as you won't see the originals again.
Cheers,
Phil
59
« on: February 26, 2019, 07:56:39 AM »
Hello Chums,
Things have been progressing slowly as the life / work balance goes to pot. However, I finally got round to filling out the DVLA form to get an age related plate, sent it with the USA title, NOVA, VJMC dating letter and money and back it came as an 'N' reg. That was easier than I thought.
I am now applying my mind to getting some plates made up - for my cars I've always used TIPPERS in Cornwall as with a bit of Solvol AutoSol they shine up really well.
The question for you my friends is: do I go for a two line or 3 line rear number plate? By 3 line I mean that the year letter appears on its own at the base of the plate; a bit like some old Triumphs you see. Or have a 2 line where the year letter appears beside the three numbers. To my mind the latter may be more representative of old Hondas from the 70's. Whaddaya think?
Also I will be getting some curved plates for the front mudguard - Tippers do the mountings for £15. Photo may appear below.
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Stay safe.
Phil.
60
« on: January 13, 2019, 09:03:41 AM »
The dumb question is the one you don't ask !!
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