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Messages - beemsquar
1
« on: February 15, 2016, 05:21:25 PM »
Cheers guys,
Have you by any chance got a photo of them on the bike to get an idea of the size?
I think the 9" x 6 1/2" sounds good, I like that the font is the older style too!
how have you installed them on the bike? have you used a surround or just drilled and bolted it to the light mount directly?
2
« on: February 14, 2016, 05:53:17 PM »
Hello all, I know the issue of plates has come up a few times, but I can't find the answer I'm looking for. I am looking at getting a road legal number plate and would like to get a pressed aluminium plate ideally, but want to get the smallest size I can. I am aware of some of the regulations, but wondered if anyone can shed any light on the type to use for a "period" looking plate. My bike was born in 1976 if this helps. I was looking at one of these, but think it might be too big?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressed-aluminium-Legal-motorcycle-number-plate-9-x-7-/121887682683?hash=item1c6112707b:g:dkIAAOSwxN5WZxTCwhat type/size of plates are you guys using for similar aged bikes and where is the cheapest place to get one? Cheers Andy
3
« on: December 20, 2015, 03:14:21 PM »
Cheers guys, I cut them at the given measurements and they fitted fine.
Thank you.
4
« on: December 12, 2015, 05:19:27 PM »
Hello,
Can anyone specify the lengths of the 4 drain tubes that come out of the bottom of each of the carbs and weather they are all the same length?
I also need the lengths of the 2 breather tubes that come out of the top of the carbs and the fuel tubing length from the tank to the carbs please? My original carb tubes were hacked up so I have nothing to compare them too.
Im about to cut mine, but want to make sure they are right first time. I've looked at the parts manual but I can't find anything about the lengths.
Hopefully going to get it started for the first time this weekend!!!!
Any help appreciated.
5
« on: December 10, 2015, 08:06:50 PM »
At last I managed to get the little bugger out! I removed the one from my spare rocker cover easily by removing the circlip and gently tapping the worm drive with a piece of cut down acrylic so not to damage the splines.
The reason it wouldn't come out of the rocker I was using was because there were remains of the old oil seal in there still, once I had carefully picked it out, it came out as easily as the first one. It also explains why my new seal wouldn't seat properly! Panic over.
6
« on: November 29, 2015, 11:39:58 AM »
Cheers guys, thats what I thought Chris. Looking at it from inside the rocker the gear looks larger than the collar, so I didn't want to force it.
The main problem other than the gear is that the collar itself is damaged and and new seal wont seat against the bush, the old seal I removed looked like it had been cut down and siliconed in place, but I don't fancy bodging it.
I have a spare rocker with an intact bush and screw, so If I could remove it I will swap them over, thanks for the link though, good to know I can possibly get a spare if needed.
7
« on: November 28, 2015, 09:26:43 PM »
Thank you so much, this is vary helpful! Do you know if you can fit a used bush inside or does it have to be replaced with a new one?
8
« on: November 28, 2015, 07:40:29 PM »
Can anyone else offer any advice please? I really want to get this all together now and don't want to force it out. I dont think you can buy the bush part anymore from DSS or CMSNL 
9
« on: November 27, 2015, 04:14:18 PM »
I think I really need to get it out, it's worn and also I can't get the new oil seal in correctly as the PO has squished the metal flange inside and the seal won't seat properly.
I also have removed the circuit and tried to push it out, but you have to give it way more force than I'm willing to put on it to push it out, which is why I thought I would check if there's something else that needs to be removed first.
So close to getting this engine together now.
10
« on: November 27, 2015, 12:02:38 PM »
Yeah for the 400 four.
11
« on: November 27, 2015, 09:28:15 AM »
Hi guys,
I need to replace the worm drive in the rocker cover as it is worn, but can't for the life of me see how to remove it. I've looked online for the answer with no avail.
Obviously I turned to you guys here for the answer.
I have spare rocker so will have to do this twice and fit the better one.
If anyone has pictures of there removal that would be helpful too.
Cheers
Andy
12
« on: November 27, 2015, 09:22:31 AM »
That's a great tip, I'll be using that again in the future!
13
« on: November 20, 2015, 07:12:02 AM »
Cheers oddjob,
That makes sense and was the same logic I was going on, but thought it better to check than regret.
I will put them in as you describe.
Cheers!
14
« on: November 19, 2015, 06:38:16 PM »
Hi all
Just a quick question, I'm about to instal my pistons after buttoning up the crankcases last night and wanted to know the correct orientation of the gudgeon pin circlip.
The Haynes manual says it must overlap the screwdriver slot completely, which I read as meaning it should be installed in a U shape orientation like how I have it in the picture below.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
But my confusion comes from the fact the Haynes manual photo below shows them the other way up, plus when I removed the originals they were that way up.
Can anyone confirm the correct orientation please.
Thank you.
15
« on: November 18, 2015, 05:21:17 PM »
Good to hear it Royhall!
I've had a few of those one step forward two step back scenarios myself and know how you feel.
Glad to hear all is good and you can continue on!
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