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Messages - bigmockuk
31
« on: August 04, 2017, 02:10:06 PM »
Im Thinking the alernator coil windings have shorted out,wondered if anyone can confirm this.ive did a continuity test between all 3 yellow wires and that appears ok however theres also continuity between any 3 and earth.ive had a close look and altho they look fine the internal windings could be shorted out.ive read there should be nothing between these wires and earth.
32
« on: September 12, 2016, 01:47:37 PM »
Hi seabeowner i just used a few cans of gloss engine enamel (simonez) from ebay.most of the original stuff had flaked off with white powder corrosion underneath.i would ideally liked to have gotten it all off and attempt to restore engine but the rest of it was a bugger to remove so scrapped off what i could,sanded the rest smooth as poss and resprayed.It gives really good coverage and is quite thick so covers up any scrapes or marks left from sanding etc.looks good too.i was lucky enough to salvage two pipes,the third is good n solid and i would stick with it if there is a way to quiet it down a bit.no 4 tho has gone.got it bandaged and metal taped up just to hear/test the bike.ebay had one for £90 need to check if its still there.
33
« on: September 11, 2016, 07:13:23 PM »
started work on the bike over 8 mths ago,stripped the whole lot down,as you do.with the bike lying in a garage for over 26 yrs everything rubber had either perished or became brittle,the to-do list was long but not just as costly as originally thought but dear enough.just finished rebuilding the engine with new seals/rings etc.Its not done yet tho and still got a few things to renew but its dam good to finally hear it running! still got carbs to balance and ignition timing to check with strobe. no 4 torpedo is shot to bits while no 3 is loud (i gathered it would be with the pile of rust i got out of it).it`ll take it bit yet to get it finished but theres now light at the end of a long tunnel.progress here.... https://youtu.be/NbyrdmwpQfc
34
« on: September 08, 2016, 06:47:17 PM »
Well, was happy to find none of the valve clearances has altered! dont hnow why it cut out yesterday,drained all float bowls and it fired up after a few attempts.only thing im slightly concerned about is the overheating but may be due to weak mixture,i have the mixture screws set at 1.5 turns out.oil light goes out soon as it starts too.
35
« on: September 08, 2016, 02:56:23 PM »
Hi Bryan i used elastics to hold rockers up and all was ok.had bike running on all 4 yesterday and ran fine apart from no3 being a bit loud due to almost hollow!.i felt it was overheating quite a bit after 10 mins of running around garage area but thought it may be due to black enamel i used.im on my way to check on things as i speak starting with valve clearances so i`ll keep you posted on my findings,cheers for the reply.that vid of the bike running on sunday should have been https://youtu.be/NbyrdmwpQfc
36
« on: September 08, 2016, 07:20:46 AM »
can anyone tell me if its natural for the valve clearances to close up on a cb550 rebuilt engine,this is my first 550 and after working on it for over 8 mths its finaly running! what a buzz it was on sunday to hear it run but...only no1 cyl was running properly and others were missfiring.later found out carbs were not seated properly on stubs and 6 valves had closed up.no1 was very smoky so i stripped head off it thinking i had forgot a valve seal as found a spare in the gasket set i got but all was fine.rebuilt it up and wow it ran great.after ten mins going round garage area it stopped as if fuel ran out and would not start but turns over,i think valves may have closed up again will check later today.no1 does not smoke at all after rebuild and all 4 fire fine.this is this vid of it running on sunday albeit rough then... https://youtu.be/NbyrdmwpQfc.will upload yesterdays vid later today
37
« on: August 30, 2016, 10:33:37 PM »
Hi i Would like to know if someone can verify that there IS a vent hole on no3 carb on the PD46A.According to the pdf there is a vent hole on the left side leading to the float chamber.i have this protruding part but carb 1 and two has it also and there is no sign of air being able to pass thru,also no4 has a similar protrusion but with a brass fitment inside with an apparent hole.these carbs were admittedly badly chocked up but i let carb cleaner sit for ages in the inner/upper float chamber but i dont think there is a vent hole and what would be the possible reason when the brass overflow tube would act like a vent hole? can someone confirm/deny that this protusion IS in fact a vent hole cheers
38
« on: August 05, 2016, 03:52:24 PM »
your answer did indeed help! the setup i have is correct after all.This double rivoted plate is the 6th in line from the backplate and is reffered to plate B comp.cl,manufacturing no 22322 390 000.there are 6 plain and 7 friction.with that cleared up i`ll save that site for future reference,cheers for the help!
39
« on: August 04, 2016, 10:03:02 PM »
Hi all, ive got a question about the spacing of the cluth plates,i`ve always seen that plain/friction plates alternate each other and yet i see 2 plain plates held together with rivots in the middle of the sequence? ive looked at umpteen pics of same engine and dont see this space,can anyone throw some light on this thanks,i`ll upload a pic that shows this space created by these 2 plain plates
40
« on: April 16, 2016, 11:05:36 PM »
ye? excellent,might as well buy a few and compare thickness or change all to be sure thanks for that
41
« on: April 16, 2016, 09:58:29 PM »
ye thats right all the larger dia ones are there only two small one amiss i may be able to find an equavalent? for these
42
« on: April 16, 2016, 09:23:42 PM »
Thanks trigger im not gonna disturb the valve guides but interestingly i see two of the thin washers that fit on before the inner valve springs are missing..... as for the side head covers the seals on them actually appear quite good but maybe try changing one if i can get a new one to fit over first thanks
43
« on: April 16, 2016, 08:51:14 PM »
Hi everyone im still quietly working away on the bike,like i`ve said before i`ve never stripped one of these but am used to twins and am doing really well up til now.i found most seals were in poor condition so bought a full gasket/seal set from ebay,just came today,the problem is im not sure about where some go! for instance 1st up is 8 green seals 91301-200-000 nothing like these came off when i stripped it down? 2nd up is 4 91319-323-000 which i think is for the head side covers but i think they would break before they got on as not stretchy enough? 3rd up is 4 91305-323-000 not a clue and 4 of these 91303-035-000 and also 11 tappet cover seals or are some spares,any help at all would be appreciated as spent the evening trying to fathom it out,thanks
44
« on: July 03, 2015, 04:57:40 PM »
Its the first time i`ve stripped a bike down starting at the rear,i normally start at the front and work my way back,then again its the first time i`ve worked on a 550 four that had been transformed into a touring bike with the heavy full rickman fairing/crash bars and the overall size of things so maybe some intimidation crept in when i first got my hands on it and thought ok... i`ll start at the back? took a while sawing off the heavy frame that had been welded in place to hold the fairing and its starting to look original (except for the alloys but their staying cause they suit what i want).not an awful lot of rust for its age so happy with that,doing some multi-tasking between engine/electrics/cleaning/spraying,going for a black/chrome/aluminium here so have a few good pics in my mind what it should look like when its finished! and with the needed parts/good info from some of you guys it`ll be worth the wait! onwards and upwards.
45
« on: June 27, 2015, 01:04:41 PM »
Thanks Guys i knew it came from down there! i was thinking the largest hole was the security one,your all right enough,am slipping in ma old age lol cheers.
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