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Messages - AshimotoK0

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16
The Black Bomber Board / Re: 67` Bomber running problems
« on: April 04, 2024, 11:42:31 AM »
Here goes Mo. The hex head on the bit in the top crankcase was pretty tight but removed it and pictured parts in the images below. Also tried to photo inside the hole and you can see the channel groove in the shift drum directly below so pretty sure nothing can drop inside when you remove the 'bolt' thingy.
Cursing as the case wasn't on the shelf where I thought it was ... I had stored it away in the bowels of my shed.  :)

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17
The Black Bomber Board / Re: 67` Bomber running problems
« on: April 03, 2024, 09:32:57 PM »
Are thanks everyone That's a bit to take in after all that I have done Thought I could just go out and ride Now Ha..... lol

I have looked on the D/S site ....... and they do have most like the Coller drum 24446-200-000 and the No 2 spring 24641-216-000 that they will have to order in....they have got No 12 spring No 24435-283-010 I have the No 3 spring already as that 24651-283-000.

If I unscrew that Detent 8-9 it wont drop anything inside will it Ash ? but I will take that out first to see if that is Ok and go from there.

Pretty sure you can take 8-9 out Mo without it going inside but you may need a small magnet on the end of a rod to coax it out. Don't attempt to move the shift drum though with the gear lever. Before you do it I have some spare crankcases in my shed so I will look more closely at it. You may have to rock the drum a very small fraction either way to get the  the 'collar shift drum guide' Item#9  to release.

Also check arm #11 moves freely and has decent spring pressure from spring #12. Also that the screw #19 which holds the guide plate to the shift drum isn't loose.

I am pretty sure a 5-speed arrangement will not fit the Bomber K0 ... the bottom end of the 4-speed is totally different to the 5 speed .. the crank for instance bears no real resemblance to the 5-speed. I am told the 4-sp is more like a Honda race crank arrangement.

18
The Black Bomber Board / Re: 67` Bomber running problems
« on: April 03, 2024, 08:19:07 AM »
That's a bummer 'Mo. Always crap when a seller doesn't tell you the full story.

Worth somebody else chipping in here but you can check the shifter mechanism without separating the crank-cases (you  just have to take off clutch cover) See diagrams for things to check like the shifter shaft mechanism 1 and springs 2 &3 in top diagram attached.  ( and profiled shift plate and pins on the end of the shift drum plus the two spings 3 & 12  and associated roller mech 11. Also the spring loaded pin 9 that is mounted in the top crankcase and runs in the guides of the shifter drum. (possibly the 1st thing to check I guess before removing clutch cover etc) . Other than that you would have to check the shift forks and drum, which means removing the bottom crankcase. On the bomber the crank is totally different to most other Hondas of the period and later, in that the crank has pillar blocks mounted in the top case .... so splitting the cases (with top end undisturbed) is not too daunting ... albeit a pain in the ar*e seeing as you bought a supposedly restored bike. I feel you pain.

Perhaps someone else can chip in and confirm what I am saying ... Bryan/RoyHalliwell etc.

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19
SOHC Singles & Twins / Re: 175a sloper baffle?
« on: March 31, 2024, 02:51:01 PM »
Different regions have different arrangements. e.g the UK model SS125A had non-removable baffles but the JDM one had a removable one.
I have to say though that I much prefer the removable ones because when it comes to re-chroming a lot of places do a flow test with water ...i.e fill the exhaust with water and measure the time to drain. If it takes any more than a couple of seconds they refuse to take the job on. Obviously, taking the baffle out vastly increases the flow-rate in most cases.

20
SOHC Singles & Twins / Re: 175a sloper baffle?
« on: March 30, 2024, 08:12:29 PM »
It's not listed as a separate item in any of my sloper parts books but the silencer is the same as the CD125A sloper, which lists it as a C100 etc -001- part.
18311-001-030

Hate having to recommend this thieving b*sta*rd near me for one but he has them and, for once in his life not too bad a price. Can't guarantee they will fit but nearly sure. I can measure or sketch a NOS sloper one I have if you like to ask him to compare (not for sale though as off my NOS sloper silencer).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255988586298

Here is a pic of mine:-

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21
Misc / Open / Re: 2K rattle cans
« on: March 29, 2024, 10:05:22 AM »
I agree with Ash,
The ProXL clear is excellent stuff.
I've done a small tank and also prepared other stuff for it, because once it's activated it won't keep long.

Do wear a proper mask tho.

I actually used the SprayMax clear it was the ProXL primer I used but nice to know that the ProXL clear is good too.

22
Misc / Open / Re: Posting pics.😡
« on: March 29, 2024, 10:02:57 AM »
I often just do a screenshot using Snipping Tool in Windows. Resolute enough and not s massive file ... so posts easily.

23
Project Board / Re: 1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
« on: March 29, 2024, 09:59:58 AM »
Looking good then Mo

24
Misc / Open / Re: 2K rattle cans
« on: March 29, 2024, 12:27:58 AM »
Well the seller in the eBay link for ProXL Primer has read my post on another forum, thanked me  and amended the listing.

26
Misc / Open / Re: 2K rattle cans
« on: March 28, 2024, 11:11:50 PM »
Has anyone used the 2K rattle cans where you press the valve in the bottom to add the activator?

Was thinking about using them on my 550 frame.

I have used Spraymax2k clearcoat gloss and satin (made in Germany)  and another make of 2k high build primer ProXL (made in UK) and they are truly excellent, particularly the clear. The finish is excellent and the spray pattern is too and consistent right until the end of the can.

However, they usually contain isocyanate so I invested in an air fed mask.

Had a run in with ProXL. Bought their high build 2k-in-a can high build primer/ filler and it stated on all eBay sellers descriptions and the manufacturers product date sheet that it did NOT contain isocyanate. Bought 2 cans to try and in tiny print on the can is stated "contains isocyanate'. I called the manufacturer in the UK and the lady on the phone was adamant that it doesn't contain isocyanate,  so I challenged her why the can says it does. She said she would refer it to their tech people and get back to me. Heard nothing, Phoned again 2 weeks later and no more info, so I told them to get their act together. Then got an email telling me it DOES contain isocyanate and they were amending the datasheet. Checked online a month later and datasheet not changed so I told them they had 2 weeks to change it otherwise I was going to report them to the HSE. Couple of days later datasheet  got changed accordingly  but not checked the eBay sellers.

I think some companies may  sell non-isocayante cured clear coat like RS Bikepaints ... not so sure in a 2k aerosol though....  but heard  it stays like a fly paper for ages and generally inferior.

Best place for Spraymax2k clear is Graff-City ... not cheap but goes a long way and if you get 3 cans it's free delivery over £60

https://www.graff-city.com/spray-paint-c128/spraymax-2k-clear-coat-gloss-400ml-p4243/s21760?cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB

UPDATE ... Blo*dy 'ell eBay seller still not changed description.  >:(

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174189057836


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27
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 28, 2024, 10:43:02 PM »
Many years ago I used to mix relatively large quantities of HF with other acids to make a reagent for etching certain types of stainless steels. Head to foot PPE in a room with fume extraction and a shower activated in an emergency by stepping on a footplate. Highly corrosive and toxic.
I didn't realise it was used in alloy wheel cleaners, I guess (hope) its in a low concentration.

Alan

https://www.jennychem.com/products/aliclean-super-very-effective-solution

Can't find a Jennychem safety data sheet for it but in another brand its stated as< 7%

I suspect that the concentration has gone down over the past few years.

28
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 28, 2024, 06:45:51 PM »
On one of Allen Millyard’s videos on YouTube, he put carb bodies in a bucket of water mixed with alloy wheel cleaner.

Left them in for a few minutes until the water stopped fizzing and they came out pretty good.

Hope it's not the alloy wheel cleaner that used hydrofluoric acid ... really nasty stuff that. I have 5l of it that somebody gave me  but always chicken out of using it.

29
Project Board / Re: 1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
« on: March 27, 2024, 09:19:30 PM »
That regulator is confusing I know. On the Honda system it's a 3 wire unit with a sense to the battery voltage but on the Kwak one it's just a connection between ground and the AC output.

I have illustrated the Kwak diagram . You need to connect the Yellow/Green wire to YELLOW on your Honda and thde black to ground (battery negative).

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30
Project Board / Re: 1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:33:56 PM »
Sorry Mo ... not sure what you need from me ... it sounds like you have the wiring details pretty much sussed out if you are wiring directly and not going through the bikes main loom ? Or am I missing something?

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