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Messages - AshimotoK0
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5326
« on: February 15, 2015, 04:43:24 PM »
Rebuilding the switch gear on my '76 CB550F1. All going well, just new some replacement iddy biddy parts! The tiny screw and nut for the Horn button and internal springs that have got corroded.
Hard to work out the size but they are tiny. It's likely that switch gear gubbins are mostly the same for 400/500/550/750 of that era . Anyone managed to find anywhere who sells this stuff?
Given loads away of the nut and bolt on here in stainless steel its M2 coarse. PM me your address and I will send you a couple. May have a spring you could use Ash
5327
« on: February 15, 2015, 01:26:31 PM »
Trying to get shut of a few things I will never use on eBay tonight and over next week (honda_four_rider) to fund more chroming / painting.
If anyone on here buys anything I will try to post free.
Ash
5328
« on: February 15, 2015, 01:10:21 PM »
CB250/350 K0/K1/K2/K3/K4. twins and CL's too Loads around worth next to nowt on eBay. Ive got loads of em but cant be bother to list.
Ash
5329
« on: February 15, 2015, 11:21:16 AM »
I saw that colour on a Clio abroad greaming in the sunshine and it looked awesome. Thought to myself if I ever do a non-standard colour that would be the one.
Ash
5330
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:34:14 PM »
Ash if you want to give me a ring when i,m at work i will tell you the easy way
Great Bryan, You are a top man ! I will do this when I have got all of the parts together. I am trying to use original replated spokes wherever possible. The only wheel I will use the DS replicas I bought on is the 750K0 rear.
5331
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:31:34 PM »
Always sung the praises of eBay Germany on here. Bought two items recently via eBay Germany a DID rim from Sayonara Cycles and CB250SS(K0) seat from Jap2wheels. The rim I knew had tyre lever gouges in it but there is a dink in the outer face of the rim, that the chromer is worried about and the seat base is so rusty that if I sandblast it, its only use will be for draining my boiled spuds in. Also the S/steel trim isn't good, I already knew the cover and foam would be shot, which they are. These items were EXPENSIVE and the rim guy wouldn't budge on the price. I emailed Frank at Jap2wheels and he has offered a refund via eBay (he's normaly spot on on description and quality) but I did a deal on the rim off eBay in the end from Sayonara cycles. Anyone dealt with Werner at Sayonara cycles?
This resto lark is a minefield ... I'm off down the pub!
Ash
5332
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:12:24 PM »
Bloody 'ell that took me back to 1986.. you don't need the separate bracket .. mine is on a bracket welded to the frame loop on my 9/75 bike and its a new (well in 1986!) Honda standard exhaust and the frame was never modified.
Ash
5333
« on: February 14, 2015, 06:59:32 PM »
Mine is an early footpegs on swinging arm (9/75) will check.
Ash
5334
« on: February 14, 2015, 02:02:49 PM »
I will have eight wheels to build in total as I am going to redo my 400/4 wheels with original DID rims (when I restored it in '86 the only rims I could get NOS were from a Suzuki (10 quid each from Queens Park Motors in Salford) and I got a dealer called Phil Gordon in Hull to re-build them with those rims and new rustless spokes. Turned out he had a punk rock young girl in there who actually did the wheelbuilding!! Anyway going to try to teach myself to wheelbuild from info on here and Youtube!
Ash
5335
« on: February 14, 2015, 09:48:47 AM »
Got my chroming back from Classics and Chrome Hinkley Leics. yesterday afternoon.. picked it up myself in the car as I don't trust couriers, which was a 250 mile round trip from East Yorks mainly down the M1. Well pleased with it  After quoting and me giving him the go-ahead it was a 1 week turnaround. Amazing! Very , very slightly''blingy' as Honda Chroming was crap and I can only just make out the DID diamond imprint in the Rim.. so be warned if you take a rare 750 rim to him to tell him to preserve the logo (I forgot  ) . Well chuffed with the quality though !! [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Total was £395 As far as I can work out the stays and centre were £25 each, 750 K0 guard 'blade' £70, the 18" rear DID rim £110, the CB250K0 mudguard complete with stays and centre section was £100, handlebars £40 Told the owner David I would give him a mention on here. He triple plates all of the big stuff I think (not sure) and did some pretty amazing repair/copper plate build up on my friends really ropey and bady rusted parts. Ash
5336
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:50:26 AM »
Looking good MrT.. You must be well chuffed the amount of stuff you have learned and done during this restoration.
Ash
5337
« on: February 14, 2015, 07:49:03 AM »
I used to test mine by using a tap wrench, tap as in tap and die set not the kitchen tap I used the chuck type tap wrench, I'd insert the valve with some grinding paste on the seat and then attach the tap wrench to the stem, I found that this way I could pull the valve onto the seat much better than using a good damn awful sucker on a stick. When I wanted to test with petrol I'd just pull hard on the tap wrench, probably less pressure than the springs so if it didn't leak then it was unlikely to leak with the springs on. Similarly I could test the valve seats before removing the springs to see which ones were leaking, if you watch the valve head you can spot the petrol vapour coming out if it was a slight leak or dripping out if the seat was badly burned.
I do the same but with a Jacobs type chuck from a drill. Also use a g clamp witha U shaped bent bit of metal for a valve spring compressor. Soundinga bit 10/- (10 bob) readers tips from MCM circa 1968!
5338
« on: February 13, 2015, 11:36:59 AM »
The stamped codes on the shells are production codes only and the coloured marks fade in a hot engine to a browny colour ( well they did on engines I have stripped). Anyway the crank markings codes are only for an unworn crank so you need to select the correct colour codes from the charts cross referenced with the crankcase stampings and the crank markings, then Plastigage the bearing clearances after bolting everything together temporarily. Bryan or Graham etc. may be able to tell you just to use a certain colour code and run in carefully I don't know... they have built lots of engines between them. Bryan tells me you can't mike up the crank you need air gauging but on my 1st 400/4 I had the crank miked up and used the measurements to select the shells and the clearances were spot on, when I used Plastigage. Needs a pretty good measuring man though and you need to check for ovality in the journals and measure very accurately. We did have air gauges where I work part time but someone chucked the whole system in the skip, not knowing what the kit was used for  Hope this helps ... Ash
5339
« on: February 12, 2015, 04:27:51 PM »
Can't make it but they are awesome shows.. last one I went to had a Meccano Club stand... awesome.
Want to get Mach 3 working on my Lathe/mill setup (Emcomat 7)...another project awaiting my attention.
Ash
5340
« on: February 12, 2015, 04:12:51 PM »
Looking at his plastic gauge reading if i were him i would of used a magnify glass and get it spot, on to me it looked like he guessed the width to thin
Thanks ash form the links i just love watching this stuff
I dont agree with the changing of the con rod bolts , i would always reuse, i think they are specially hardened and the whole stretch thing is not as bad as he says, lets face it most of us who have built engines have reused the bolts with no bad effects, the same goes for the cylinder studs although i wonder about reusing them if the have been twisted alot when removing, the trouble with aftermarket ape studs is they rust as they are not zinc coated and original honda are not available
pete
Yea Pete , I reckon those shells could have been OK and he misread the Plastigage reading. It's easy to criticize though but stuff like this is invaluable ( like the wheel rebuilding ones) and someone has taken the time to video it all for our enjoyment. I keep having a debate with a colleague about the best classic car resto programme but I still reckon Ed China is the best. OK he reuses old bolts etc but he seems to have a go at anything. The car SOS rescue one had one decent guy on it and then this James Mayesque type lookalike who just acts the fool all of the time. I hate it when these programmes do the Blue Peter trick and suddenly show you a totally rebuilt engine (one I prepared earlier !) without showing you any of the processes involved. AND when is there going to be one on bikes.. suppose the closest you get is the Cafe Racer one, after 'A Bike is Reborn' which did a Bonnie and HD I remember but yonks ago. We want ' A Sandcast is Reborn' ..... Preferrably a Candy Green one  Watch this guy too (an Anthony Hopkins lookalike) .. Definitely a man after my own heart. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trrVeix0nS4https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W79S-FuWLtoAsh
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