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Topics - Laverda Dave

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106
CB350/400 / Anyone selling a set of cylinder barrels
« on: March 05, 2016, 09:27:28 PM »
Due to my existing cylinder bores being oversize and also being unable to obtain any 0.75 or 1.0mm oversize pistons to suit I'm on the lookout for a set of used barrels.  I really don't want to go down the expensive re-lining or big bore route, I'd like to keep the bike as standard as I can if possible.

Finish is unimportant but if possible I would like all the fins to be intact and the bores to be either worn standard or 0.25 to enable me to get a .05 re-bore if I have to. I've have tried e-bay and all the usual breakers but there's nothing available.
If anyone has a set let me know and we can negotiate a price.

Hope someone out there has something suitable to get one of these bikes back on the road  :)

Dave

107
CB350/400 / 400/4 rev counter drive in rocker cover
« on: February 25, 2016, 11:03:06 PM »
Hello All,

Another busy day in the man cave today, the parts washer must be on the verge of overheating considering the amount of use its getting this week!

I have now assembled the cylinder head and rocker cover, I was lucky as I had 24 rockers to choose from and 12 rocker shafts that came with the 'Project' boxes.  Strangely enough I used one specific set from one of the old rocker covers including the shafts. I did notice the rockers in one cover had casting marks of 333 47 or 333 52 (the set I used). Is it therefore the case that all the rockers have to have the same casting (or batch?) numbers?

I have suffered a slight problem with brain fade regarding how to install the rev counter drive back into the rocker cover.  It was in pieces when I bought it as part of the project.  Looking at the parts diagram the 'sleeve' that fits over the worm drive has a 'c'clip about 4mm from the end. On top of the sleeve fits the washer followed by the seal.  My question is, how do I install the worm drive in the 'sleeve' into the rocker cover if the 'c' clip is in place? I tried to install it with the c -clip fitted and it does go into the rocker casting but not all the way home, about 8mm is left protruding from the casting stopping the washer and seal being fitted.  I don't want to tap the drive home as this is likely to end in tears and a broken rocker casting.  The spare rocker casting I have has a big lump missing form the rev counter drive housing and I don't want my newly blasted casting to go the same way.
Is there a special technique to installing these, the Haynes manual just says to install it but does not advise how :-\

Tomorrow I'm off to J D Autoworks for a glaze bust following some excellent advice from Bryanj, Thank you Bryanj  :)

Regards
Dave

108
CB350/400 / Oil pump wear and 'O' rings
« on: February 24, 2016, 11:45:53 PM »
Following an eventful afternoon in the man cave standing over the parts washer today (having to use the last of my annual leave and I've decided on a self catering holiday in the garage....)..... I decided to strip the oil pump for a clean and inspection.
First thing of note was the amount of 'O' rings present  :o. Having previously ordered all the required 'o' rings as shown in the parts book I was a bit surprised to discover there are three additional 'o' rings present within the oil pump itself that are not shown in the parts manual, Oh dear ::)! I toyed with re-using them but like everything on this engine somebody has been inside it before me and they have done what I was planning on doing,turning them around! I cant do that as they are not 'o' in shape any more but very flat where they have been squeezed down, several times it appears.
Does anyone know what size 'O' rings I should order and where I can get them? The parts manual does not list them so I'm a bit stuck, I'm sure my local Honda emporium will not stock them unless I can provide a part number. I can measure the diameter but not the thickness as they really are flat! The 'O' rings I am after are for the gearbox rotor (photo attached) and the main chamber oil seal (the one with the rotor shaft in the photo). Being an oil pump were pressure is everything I don't want to re-fit the old ones and potentially suffering a leak and loss of pressure. I have the other seals all brand new and ready to fit.
On inspection of the pump I checked for wear on the main rotor housing body, it appears to be scored (see photo) although I couldn't detect any discernible 'ridges' in the body with my finger nail although the housing is so small it is difficult to get a finger in there to test it!  Has anyone stripped a pump down before and is this type of wear common and is it acceptable? If not is there any way a repair can be undertaken as new pumps are slightly scarce at the moment!
Finally, I mentioned at the beginning of this post that somebody has already been inside this engine, this is confirmend as the main pump rotors (inner and outer) are punch marked and the punch marks should both be on the top face, they weren't the inner rotor punch mark was face down.  Looking at the attached photo, is the wear on the rotors acceptable?
Any advice would be welcome as always and despite the setbacks, shocks and horrors I'm actually enjoying the rebuild :).
Regards
Dave

109
CB350/400 / Piston and ring size markings
« on: February 24, 2016, 02:55:53 PM »
Hi Everyone,
The rebuild of the 400/4 I bought in boxes is progressing well with the engine cases now back from aqua blasting and various essential parts purchased from Mr Silver's parts emporium.  I have also collected the head from J D Autoworx following a 7 thou skim, valve seat cuts for the four new inlet valves and two brass inserts being installed following the removal of the broken exhaust studs on No.3 cylinder.
I dropped the frame off today to have it checked, its just a shame the previous owner had it blasted and powder coated without checking the alignment first.  I am hoping a hot torch isn't going to be required to straighten it if it is bent otherwise it will get a bit messy! A lesson here is that any frame should be checked before stripping and painting especially considering the age of bikes we ride and the probability of the bike having at least one excursion down the road! A Morini I restored a couple of years ago had a perfect looking frame and I was going ahead to paint it but though a check would be a good idea. I'm glad I did, it was 2 degrees out at the steering head!
Anyway, the reason I'm here.........I have been checking the pistons and rings today, plan is to fit a new set of rings only as the previous owner measured the bores and found very little wear and virtually no oval wear at all.  My question is, how do I know what size pistons and rings I have without having access to specialist measuring equipment? I thought the pistons or the rings would be stamped with either 'STD' markings or 0.25 etc for any oversize.  I cannot find either on the pistons or the rings?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I will post a few pics on the site of the rebuild as it progresses when I a chance and have clean hands!
Dave

110
CB350/400 / It's time for crank bearings again ........
« on: January 26, 2016, 10:41:34 PM »
Hi All,
Its my first day here and I need some advice from the knowledgeable people who know and inhabit this forum.
Its a question about crankshaft bearings, big end bearings, bearing codes and general engine bearings.
Before joining the forum for 'real' today I have looked through a good number of posts regarding crank bearings but unable to find an answer I need.
I have bought a 400/4 in many, many boxes, you know, the 90% complete project with the vital missing 10% made of unobtainium materials.
I have completed stripping the half stripped engine and need advice about crank bearings.  Knowing from experience what a minefield measuring cranks is I used plastigauge to measure the clearances.  The stamping on the rear crankcase half are: BBBBA.  One of the crank webs has a number of 50106 although I am not sure if these actually mean anything.  I reassembled the crankcase with the crank installed and plastigauge placed on each bearing journal. I assembled the crankshaft in the bearings dry, no oil added to the bearing shells. I torque set the lower crankcase bolts to the required tension.  On disassembling I measured the plastigauge on the crank journals.  The readings were 0.050, 0.045, 0.063, 0.055, 0.050 (metric measurements).
Question 1: Can anyone please tell me if the bearings are within wear limits, I cannot find any reference in the Haynes or Clymer manuals advising what the wear limits of the shell bearings are?  I have a nasty feeling they are terminally worn. This leads to:
Question 2: How do I measure the crank journals accurately? I have a mic but this only reads down to 100th of a mm, Honda measurements are in microns (32+0 -0.010u)! Having measured the crank journals using the mic I have obtained the following readings: 31.76, 31.70, 31.82, 31.80, 32.00. Unfortunately I cannot believe any of the readings I have obtained as I get a slightly different reading every time I measure each journal, I'm talking of differences of 100ths of a mm but its enough to cast serious doubt.
If I do need new bearings I think I need Black, Black, Black, Black, Yellow?
Question 3: If I need black bearing shells does anyone know of a supplier, DS and CMSL don't have any. Should I start crying yet?
Question 4: Big ends -  Any advice please on a type of socket to use to remove the big end nuts, the nut is obscured by the curvature of the big end, a 3/4 socket is too big and a 1/4 socket wont move the nut. It doesn't hep that someone has already been there previously and rounded a couple of the bearing nuts, not badly but Mr Honda obviously didn't put them in like that!
Question 5: The con rods are marked with what appears to be a number and a letter, I though they should only have a number.  The numbers (and letters) I have found on each con rod are: 1D, 2D, 21(should it be an 'I'), 21 (same as rod no.3). The rods and ends are correct pairs, I can see they haven't been swapped with each other as the numbers and letters are stamped half on the main rod and half on the lower shell cap.  Can anyone advise what bearing shell colours I need?
Question 6: Can the con rod bolts be reused once undone or are they stretch bolts? (exxxpppeeennnsssiiiveee  :-\)
Question 7: Does anyone know the OD and ID of the main engine bearings, the parts manual only provides part numbers, can anyone recommend a bearing supplier? Do I, or should I, replace the main engine bearings considering I have the engine in bits and never heard it running?

Apologies for all the questions, its just the crankshaft bearing issues appears to be a can of worms!

One last question, can anyone recommend a good painter, I have a tank with a slight dent in primer and a couple of new sidepanels from DS that also require painting in the F2 maroon with the pinstripes.

Thanks for reading this far  ;).

Dave

111
New Member Introductions / New member
« on: January 26, 2016, 09:56:19 PM »
Hi All,
This is my first day at the Honda school for sohc's!  My name is Dave and I'm from London (this sounds like Take Me Out!).
I already own a Honda CB400/4 and have owned 2 previously, indeed it was my first 'big' bike in 1980 when I graduated from my CB200. 
I have owned a red one, and maroon one and built a yellow one in 1991 (when genuine spares were cheap and plentiful????).  I was so proud of the bike it featured in the very first edition of 'Japanese Classics' that short lived mag for retro bikes launched in May 1992.
I made the mistake(?) of recently buying another 400/4 in a large amount of boxes, will I save it from the scrapheap and the 'breaking for spare' e-bay description, I hope so, 400/4's do not deserve a hacksaw across the frame and throwing in a skip when all the good bits have been robbed from it and sold for a lot of cash, time will tell, stay tuned, I'm going to need some advice, it really is a wreck :-\
Dave

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