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Topics - Laverda Dave
76
« on: July 23, 2018, 08:17:16 PM »
I dropped the CB250RSA barrel and head off a the engineering shop today. It looks likely a rebore will be required although he is going to try a gentle hone first as there is a lot of melted piston in the top of the bore. If this doesn't work it will be a 0.50 oversize piston (I had it bored 0.25 over previously).
The engineer thinks the Haynes Manual maybe incorrect regarding the cylinder to piston clearance. The manual states a clearance of 0.01 —0.04mm. He thinks this is very tight for a 74mm piston? He doesn't want to risk a potential seizure.
Does anyone know if the Haynes Manual measurements are correct or is there a Honda measurement or even a 'rule of thumb' for Japanese bikes (Brit bike clearances are much bigger).
Dave
77
« on: July 21, 2018, 10:53:46 AM »
Just received next month's classic bike.
Someone is selling a 400/4 with only 1 mile on the clock. £5/6k sounds like a bargain.
78
« on: April 21, 2018, 05:34:30 PM »
The CB250RSA went for it's MOT today, the test centre was 2 miles away. This was the first time I had ridden the finished bike.All went well, I noticed on the way there the carb needed some fine tuning but I thought I'd do that tomorrow.
I arrived home, parked up, had a cuppa and went back outside to the bike, disaster! A huge pool of oil was sitting underneath the engine and directly below the front chain sprocket.
When I put the bike on the bench and pull the cover off and chain sprocket I found the inner lip of the seal had been ripped as in the photo.
Does anyone have any idea what could cause this, the seal is a DS pattern part and the shaft was checked for any damage during cleaning and reassembly. It didn't leak previously either.
I guess this is going to be an engine out and lower crankcase half removal to replace the seal as it has an outer lip to sit in the cases.
I used Hondabond HT on the case halves, is this easy to remove, any special solvent required? The instructions only advise on application, not removal!
79
« on: April 11, 2018, 10:30:33 AM »
Having received my lovely fresh CB250RSA paintwork back from Menno I am looking for something to protect the paintwork on the rear of the petrol tank to stop the front edge of the seat rubbing the paint away as these seem to do and also to protect the paint from the rubbing/scratching effects of jackets etc.
Can anyone recommend a suitable protector and preferably one that can be removed without taking the paintwork with it? A clear protector would be ideal. All the ones I have seen look as though they will damage the paint on removal.
This bike is going to be used as intended but I would like to keep it as clean and as mark free as possible.
If anyone also has a recommended source for a front crash bar that would also be welcome. I have seen universal crash bars advertised but just how 'universal' are they on such a small bike?
Dave
80
« on: January 27, 2018, 11:36:27 AM »
Does anyone have any tips of how to remove the magnetism from tools? I've just spent 30 minutes trying to locate a 2.5mm e-clip back into the kill switch. Every tool from my tool box appears to now be magnetic, great for picking the clip up but useless trying to place it!
It appears over the years small things like screwdrivers and pliers have somehow become magnetised. Does anyone know how to remove it?
81
« on: January 15, 2018, 10:31:52 PM »
Does anyone have any tips of suitable products to renovate black plastic parts such as rear inner mudguards, air box casings etc? I've used Halfords Back to Black in the past but the finish wears off very quickly. I don't want to paint the parts as it tends to flake and crack and looks awful.
82
« on: December 28, 2017, 12:53:16 PM »
I've made a real schoolboy error  with the CB250RS engine and now I need a pin spark eroded out. Does anyone know of anyone who can offer this service? All the company's that advertise are only interested in mass production work and not one-off's. Happy to send the part (it's the rocker cover) anywhere as it's only small.
83
« on: December 02, 2017, 03:16:20 PM »
I saw this at the Kempton Park Autojumble today. It was fully working and obviously from the 70's (maybe?). It was being sold by a couple of guys who'd travelled over from France for the day. Unfortunately the guy selling it had wandered off and his friend didn't know how much he wanted for it. Likely to have been expensive though as unmarked and complete with polystyrene packing but no box.
Makes a change from the usual Evil Knievel wind up toys.
84
« on: November 12, 2017, 12:03:09 PM »
Hi All,
I am currently in the process of cleaning and measuring all the gearbox parts of the CB250RSA engine. So far it's all pretty good with no undue wear although I'm installing a new cam chain, tensioner, refaced rockers and a NOS cam.
I am having trouble with the balance shaft chain in terms of measuring for wear. There's nothing in Mr Haynes manual regarding what is acceptable wear. I've clean the chain in degreaser and laid it out as in the photo. The chain length is 283mm (doubled up, it's endless) and it has a deflection of 25mm as shown. Is this acceptable, it doesn't have a hard life as it's inside the engine and covered in oil?
85
« on: October 23, 2017, 05:16:55 PM »
I had a day off today and decided the time had come to finally complete project 400/4! I still have to MOT it (just in time for winter  , but at least it's now finished and I can resume the CB250RSA restoration. I'm happy with the final result considering what I started with and I know there's a lot of pattern and stainless on the finished article but I would rather use stainless where I can and exhausts and rear mudguards are difficult (or impossible to get hold off). I bought the bike in several boxes of bits and two dismantled engines. Thank you to everyone on the forum for help, advice and in some cases, parts. If anyone has a genuine working horn for sale I'd be interested, I tried to save mine even using the 'boil in a bag' method but sadly it didn't work.
86
« on: August 05, 2017, 10:51:26 AM »
Hi All, I bought a second hand set of Davida Vacuum gauges a while ago to replace the steel rod Morgans that were never unfortunately as good as the mercury ones I had years ago and sadly got broken. The Davida's didn't come with any instructions but I didn't think that mattered as I've used the mercury filled Morgans well in the past. The problem I have with the Davida's is the reading scale, the increments are in lbs and not hg. The scale reads from 0-0.6lbs. According to the Haynes manual a reading of between 16-24hg is required during carb sync, there are no alternative lb readings provided. Checking a conversion chart on the web 16-24hg = 0.6-0.8lbs? This will be off the scale on the Davida's  Does anyone have a set of Davida's and can you give me an idea of where on the lb scale the carbs should be balanced at?
87
« on: July 27, 2017, 05:45:20 PM »
I know this may have been asked a million times before but after searching the carb threads I cannot find the answer I need. Here goes..... Does anyone know of position of the carb needles, Mr Haynes advises the third grove, I've done this but the bike is still a pig to start. I've got the carbs off for the third time now and going through them again. History is they were stripped, ultrasonically cleaned, vapour blasted, new jets, gaskets, needles etc (Keyser kit) and carefully re-assembled. I even made a custom 21mm float height gauge as advised by Chris  . To-date I have started the bike 3 times and every time its a nightmare, it just doesn't want to run, three of the headers have begun to yellow just through trying to set the carbs up, I haven't been on the road yet! The exhaust is a DS item and I'm aware of the potential for more fun and games regarding the back pressure  I'm going back to basics now, stripping the carbs again and using some carb cleaner to flush them out. Any help or advice appreciated at this stage, I just want to get it MOT'd before winter!
88
« on: July 24, 2017, 07:53:56 PM »
Hi All, I am trying to obtain a couple of oil seals for the 250 rebuild. I have the old seals (they are for the kickstart shaft and the clutch operating arm) they are both the same inside and outside diameter but their markings differ? One is marked as C14 SD 12 X 22 X 5, the other is marked as C25 SD 12 X 22 X 5. I have tried various oil seal suppliers (Simply Bearings is one) and they all have 12 x 22 x 5 oil seals of various prices ranging from a cheap eurobrand up to SKF at four times the price. Some are nitrile, some are vitron. None have the C25 SD or C14 SD on their description  Can anyone advise what the C25 and C14 and SD marking actually mean?
89
« on: March 01, 2017, 08:20:09 PM »
90
« on: February 04, 2017, 09:52:18 AM »
Hi All. Can anyone recommend a make and suppliers of a suitable engine assembly grease for things like crank and cam bearings? I used to have a tube of red grease given to me years ago by my local Honda dealer. It was in a plain white tube with no branding. It's all been used now so I'm looking for something else, any ideas?
Dave
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