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Messages - singleoverheadbraincell
1
« on: April 05, 2013, 10:57:44 PM »
apologies to all contributors for not voicing my gratitude for your help before now on this issue........I did contact Paul at classicmotorcyclesolution.com and he apparently is able to help me. He has returned my email as per verbatim below which may be useful to anyone looking for airbox to carb rubber connectors (not to be confused with carb to inlet manifold)....he is going to send me the one connector that I need but postage is understandably quite expensive (from USA) so if anyone needs one, let me know and I can get it sent with mine if you like and I can post it on to you....
Hi Liam, I should be able help you out. I'm still producing the air box connectors, but the carb insulators are on hold. I usually sell the connectors for $30.00 for a set of four, plus shipping. I can sell you just one if want, but the shipping will be about the same. The last set I sent to the UK was about $18.00 for shipping. I accept paypal and if you'd like, I can send a paypal invoice. If you only want one, I can sell it for $8.50. If you do want one, please let me know the over all length of the connector. Thanks for the inquiry.
...............Paul
2
« on: March 08, 2013, 11:57:02 AM »
that'd be great Mick, thanks
Liam
3
« on: March 08, 2013, 10:37:07 AM »
Hi,
would be grateful if anyone can help me with this query. I have a 1977 550K3 and need a new airbox to carb rubber. On the David Silver website they are not listed for the K3 but are listed (as a set) for the 1977 F2 Super Sport. I presume they would fit my K3? In the photo (on the website) they look like the right ones. Can anyone enlighten me? I only need one by the way (#4 pot) but looks like I need to buy the set.
SOHBC
4
« on: February 08, 2013, 11:04:21 AM »
I'm about to embark on carb clean/tune. I have the Haynes manual which I presume should give me all the info I need but I do recall this forum having a 'tutorials' section where many numerous topics/tasks were detailed. I can't seem to find these tutorials now - or did I just dream that? Is anyone able to direct me or, failing that, has anyone got a link outside of the forum?
Many thanks,
SOHBC
5
« on: October 08, 2012, 02:28:58 PM »
So, I was having problems getting my new induction type timing light working continuously (where an induction lead is clamped over the HT lead)...it worked ok on #1 but only occasionally on #4. The engine is firing ok on all cylinders, I know this. But to get accurate timing I decided to use the timing light.
Wondering why I was getting the light to work only intermittently I was having a good probe around the #4 HT lead when I noticed a few drops of water......on further investigation I discovered this was running out of the HT lead. I made a slight cut through the outer insulation and water came running out. I'm thinking the presence of this water may have been causing the timing light not to work. Has anyone else ever experience this?
Anyway, replacing the HT leads is not straight-forward on the 550K as I'm sure you all know. I understand it requires 'breaking-into' the sealed coils and patching the thing up again. The idea was to replace just the HT leads but perhaps the coils could do with being replaced too as I'm sure there is dampness in there too. I am however, getting a nice bright blue spark so I just don't know what to do.
It would obviously be more cost-effective just to change the leads and persevere with the difficult fitting work at the coils - I reckon I could manage this ok. The leads can be bought off eBay very cheaply. I would be interested to hear other people's thoughts on this situation.
6
« on: October 04, 2012, 06:56:45 PM »
Thanks folks for your replies - Oddjob, just one thing, what exactly is the PDI, excuse my ignorance....but I did observe that the engine is prone to revving up if I turn the wheel a certain way.
Methinks I have two incorrect cables!!!!!!!!!
7
« on: October 03, 2012, 04:54:43 PM »
Bryan,
the handlebars are stock items but it is possible that it's a replacement cable that's a bit too long.....but surely if a third party manufacturer was making replacement cables, one of the fundamentals would be to get the length correct?
8
« on: October 03, 2012, 11:01:12 AM »
I have this bike only about a month now and have been tinkering with various things up until now, except the carb settings. I did suspect that it was ticking over a bit high (around 1400) and checked the manual which verified that tickover should be 1000rpm (550K). I turned the thumb screw outward to lower the idle only to discover to my horror that the engine started to sound like it was a diesel. My initial thought was that it sounded like a small end bearing. The noise disappears though at revs around 1400 or above so I set about adjusting the timing chain. I adjusted the timing chain using the method (described in this forum) of putting a little bit of tension on the chain with the kickstarter after TDC on cylinder#1. Anyway, this seemed to help it a little bit but the noise has not gone away. My only solution (at least for the symptoms) is to raise the idle to around 1400.
I haven't yet cleaned or balanced the carbs and I know this could help matters and I know also (from my reading) that these bikes are prone to a bit of low end rattle but I'm just not sure it should be as noisy as this. I understand the cam chain can be changed with the engine in-situ by attaching the new chain to the old chain and drawing it round and I would be prepared to undertake the surgery - I'm just wondering if this would improve matters or would I need also a new tensioner (these are pricey!) I don't really mind living with the issue (by keeping the tickover around 1400) as long as the chain doesn't break, which would be a disaster. The bike has 44k on the clock and I just changed the oil/filter using 10W40 mineral oil.
Any thoughts/feedback most appreciated.
9
« on: October 03, 2012, 10:29:45 AM »
.......well I finally have the (original) clutch back in place. The springs still retained their working tension after 35 years so I have kept those. The clutch feels light but I have discovered (as mickwinf eleuded to previously) that the feel of the clutch is affected by the route it takes. I don't as yet have it cable-tied back to the frame but I have discovered that when I pull it up off the rocker cover and back towards the frame it becomes tighter. At the moment it takes quite a large sweep which projects out from the front of the engine. It doesn't look good aesthetically and I don't know if the MOT inspectors will be happy but it makes for a light clutch. The problem is though that the cable does rest on the top of the rocker cover and will melt the cable if I'm not careful. I will try to fashion a cable tie or something similar around it to hold it up off the rocker cover whilst trying to retain this larger 'sweep' to keep the clutch light.
10
« on: October 01, 2012, 11:59:23 AM »
I suspect I have a similar issue to deal with - if you look at my post under "unusual teething problem" from about two weeks ago I eluded to having a similar problem which I thought might have been related to 'stale' fuel. I'm convinced now I have an intermittent issue with my reserve tank tap position (getting blocked) and I'm going to drain the tank to remove the tap for a closer inspection.
11
« on: September 29, 2012, 06:48:56 PM »
Oddjob,
thanks for the feedback but I'm a bit confused....there is no grease nipple on the casing (I have a 1977 550K). Regardless, everything is working smoothly but I'm intrigued to understand exactly what it is you are talking about. Anyway, I received 'Heavy Duty' springs from Wemoto but I'll be sending them back. For a start their 'free' length is beyond the standard mentioned in the Honda manual - I don't have the figure to hand and in hindsight, with proper vernier measurement, I don't see much wrong with the springs that came out. They are lighter than these EBC springs and for me, anything that contributes to a lighter clutch is desirable. Anyway, as I say, I'll report on the overall outcome when it's all back together.
Caio
12
« on: September 29, 2012, 08:40:12 AM »
Oddjob.....thanks for your advice but I'm a bit confused with your suggestion. I have a 1977 550K. I don't see any grease nipple at the adjuster - is the 500 radically different to the 550 in this regard? surely not? Am I understanding you correctly? anyway, all the mechanisms work fine and the pushrod is in good condition with no 'mushrooming'.
With regard to the cable - I don't know if it's a genuine Honda or not, I suppose it might be printed on the outer cable. It's been lightly oiled anyway using an old syringe (I don't take heroin btw, my poor old mutt gets injected with insulin every day for his diabetes).
Off now to spend another glorious day tinkering in the garage
13
« on: September 28, 2012, 02:17:34 PM »
I took the clutch apart and indeed on closer inspection with the vernier guage the plates are around 2.60mm which is supposed to be their 'as new' size....I have 44k showing on the clock - barely 'run-in' judging by the mileage 'mathewmosse' and 'oddjob' have clocked up. So it seems these little suckers just don't like to wear down very much.
My clutch was quite heavy though - I have removed the cable and oiled it up so that it's now sliding very smoothly........it wasn't that bad before, actually. I'll be interested to observe how the clutch 'action' at the handle has changed and if it has improved. Thanks for the contributions and I'll update the post when I get the whole thing back together with fresh oil etc.
14
« on: September 24, 2012, 04:39:48 PM »
I see now Delta, thanks.
15
« on: September 24, 2012, 02:31:22 PM »
in this manual under 'Service Data', it states the 'friction disc thickness' (by which I presume they mean the clutch) should have a standard value of 3.3mm and the serviceable limit is 3.0mm.....so this has confused me further!
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