Honda-SOHC

Here's a couple of pics of my spare carbs - you can see the spring quite clearly







There is a good rebuild guide here - http://www.sohc4.net/cb550-faq/indexphp/pd46a-carb-rebuild-guide-by-brian-barnes

Hope that helps

D

The ports you use will depend on which type of carbs you have.

The PD46 carbs have their own sync ports so you will use the intakes without.
If you have the other carbs (without the sync ports) you will need the intakes with the ports.

Check your carbs - good luck - you seem to be storming on with your project 

I do agree with you oddjob that the work that's gone into that bike is quite something.

However it's not about the engineering or the style of the bike it's about the execution and how balanced the bike looks.

The bike above has no sense of balance -the back end looking completely disconnected from the rest of the bike and I think the less said about the seat angle the better.

The engineering skills to fit all of those bits together, well yes, i doff my cap to that.
But for me it's in the design where that particular bike falls down. For me is just a collection of parts thrown together with no apparent thought as to how well it all sits together.

It's not about preferring one particular style of bike over another - I personally like bobbers, scramblers, racers, well all bikes really, but they have got to look right.

For example. I have seen a lot of cafe racers and essentially they are all the same. Tank, racing seat, rear sets etc.
But, while some of them just don't look quite right, some of them look horribly wrong and leave me wondering what on earth the builder was thinking - it's all about balance for me.

There is a relationship between the tank and seat that has got to be right for me.Yes, you could build a lovely cafe racer with all the right bits but if you put a seat unit on that sits higher than the tank or overhangs the rear end too much then the balance of the bike is ruined and the whole package suffers because of it.

Of course this is all just my opinion. If we all liked the same thing blah blah blah :0)

From what I've read on this - the r6 is an easier bolt on job re the triple trees etc and bearings from allballs.

But you will have to mess about getting spacers made for the front wheel.

There is a good write up on sohc US I think - I will link it later if I can find it.

Gsxr is made easier but pricey by cognitomoto who can supply all the bits you need including a spoked hub to fit the forks.

Have a look at cognitomoto - really nice gear

Very interested in whichever way you decide to go.

Hi
I bought a set of forks recently that had been fully rebuilt.
New stanchions, seals, sliders all polished.
They looked good so I thought why not.

It now seems that the threads  on the sliders which hold the mudguard and top of the caliper are bugggered.
The guy I bought them from has offered to fit them with helicoils.

Can't say I'm convinced and my initial reaction just to tell him to do one and get a refund.

What do you think? Any advice welcome.

Picture below shows the threads in question -
I'm thinking this is already a weak area and drilling would weaken it further - am I right or wrong?

These are not the actual forks - just a picture I grabbed from the net

Update:

Bike back on its wheels now aaannnd...... the forks are crap - really crap 

Push down and they stay down - have to pull on the bars to get the bike back to normal

Used 10w castrol fork oil and put 185cc in both legs measured with a big syringe type thing.

Checked for oil leaks and all is well.

Going to put it back on the stand and turn the springs round again.

Does anyone know what the free length of k3 springs should be?
In the manual it just says to measure the free length but it doesn't explain what the measurement should be.


Buggeration!

Thought so - tight coils downwards it is.

Thanks chaps

Good point bryan

Trigger - just what i needed

Thanks