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Messages - Eldrick
1
« on: Today at 04:27:56 PM »
Bike 'broke down' two days ago. Battery was not charging when I went on a run two days ago. It is a new battery and I recently replaced the wiring loom. I can't for sure rule out the rectifier or regulator however the AA man, (a biker too, he used to build custom machies for himself) strongly suggested the issue is insufficient charge from the [/color]alternator. [/size]
2
« on: Today at 04:22:02 PM »
Is is possible to replace the kickstarter shaft (complete) without disturbing anything else in the crankcase?
I am sure that my kickstart does not work because the splines on the shaft are stripped. I have the kickstart lever attached so I have not fully investigated this yet. Even so, I may only need the knuckle end if the lever is the issue and not the shaft.
I am inclined to do nothing if the shaft repair is required and necessitates any work that dismantles the crank case. I would like a fully working kickstarter just for fun.
3
« on: Today at 03:29:27 PM »
When I replace the alternator later this week is it best to have a rotor removal tool?
I also need to replace, at least, the rocker cover gasket and maybe the cylinder head gasket, not sure yet where the main leak is. From which supplier will I get the best quality gasket set please?
4
« on: April 28, 2024, 11:03:57 AM »
Another Day another Beach... getting lucky with weather again
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5
« on: April 18, 2024, 06:56:18 PM »
Out and About to the beach today in Cornwall
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6
« on: January 30, 2024, 05:56:30 PM »
thank you 
7
« on: January 30, 2024, 05:17:19 PM »
Should my brake caliper be painted black or left shiney...?
I see in the worksop manual it is black then I see on 'car and classic' some are painted or even just the inside caliper is black. This being a UK 1975 model if that makes a difference.
8
« on: January 24, 2024, 02:41:50 PM »
To clarify my earlier tired answer
I would use it above the seal and in the gap arround and behind piston but i would not use it on the seal, in the seal groove or in the bore as, personaly, i would not want the chance of any contaminent in the brake fluid cos i am not a good enough chemist to know what would happen
same here, thanks for the clarification
9
« on: January 24, 2024, 09:18:48 AM »
To the original question....the stainless piston option is a good one. Experience on here is that they are well made and work well.
As Bryan has already contributed, the seal, its groove, how clean that is, are one of the most crucial aspect of getting this (and any caliper) to work correctly.
They should be assembled with silicone grease (it's directed even in the very first 750 Honda manual) to work well and protect it from corrosion.
I noticed that the Haynes book suggests smearing the piston with Brake Fluid before inserting back into the caliper body. Is the silicone grease a better choice or is there a good reason to use it? Thanks
10
« on: January 22, 2024, 03:04:56 PM »
11
« on: January 22, 2024, 02:49:35 PM »
Yes,
I think Wemoto can supply stainless ones, and seals
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I am seeing a few suppliers, prices from £20 tru £85
12
« on: January 22, 2024, 02:37:51 PM »
Just checking that I am right to think I should replace this 400f front brake piston.
13
« on: August 29, 2023, 05:44:46 PM »
OK, I can get on board with that.
Any reccomemndations on spoke wrenches to use? Or any other useful tools for the job?I don't think I even have a tyre lever.
14
« on: August 29, 2023, 05:36:23 PM »
Planning for the winter here, I want to replace the spokes on both wheels.
Is it possible to literally remove an old spoke and repace it with the new one and repeat the process to the end?
My train of thought on this is to make sure I lace the wheels up properly.
Thanks.
15
« on: May 08, 2023, 04:41:21 PM »
Do you think it could be repaired by welding? Just a thought.....
no, it snapped in two nd the damge are (weak spot) was big, relativley speaking
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