Honda-SOHC

If you go onto Camcoats website Roo and click on his Instagram link you'll see my gold rims near the top of the page, still in the boot of the car ATM.

Thought I'd mention the ozone being produced by Fridges and Freezers as most people have one in their garage, they reckon it affects the rubber and it was ripping mine apart under traction, not helped by the motor having huge amounts of torque and me using it all, got a heavy hand most rides, I just don't do slow even these days.

Correct on the colour wiring question, any yellow to any white is fine. Black is almost certainly green and of course red to red sounds correct.

Didn't know Electrex did looms Ted, I'll have a look at them although my old 550 loom is in good nick I've sourced a NOS 550 loom instead.

Muriatic acid was the exact one they were testing Roo, couldn't remember the name without looking again, it was extremely aggressive, it virtually dissolved the alloy test piece so if you've left the petrol tap on for instance it would wreck that, on steel it cleaned off the rust pretty quick but then went on to start dissolving that as well, on iron it created huge craters in the surface. After about 1 week all the Hydrochloric acid had off gassed off and it slowed right down. I would not advise using that at all after watching how it affects stuff, they used metal filings as one of the test subjects, both the vinegars dissolved them, the muriatic did as well but a lot lot quicker. Molasses and Evaporust didn't really affect them.

This is the test I watched, boring bloke but good tests except for using water, really, what did he expect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dzlE9-9DVE

Rear wheel cush drive rubbers Ted..

Interesting question Alex and one I can't say for certain if it will or won't as I've never owned a 750. However the front wheels are both 19" so the blade will fit, the brace however is different as are the stays. If you still have the brace off your old guard you could in theory swap them over, just use some 5mm bolts and domed headed nuts. This would also give you the brake line clamp which is welded onto the brace on the 550. The braces should fit the forks BUT the braces aren't the same as the 550 ones, whether the 550 braces if you still have them will fit the bolt holes in the guard is a question you should ask.

Depends on price, if it's a good price buy it and see if it fits, if it doesn't swap the brace over and it should then.

Just looked molasses up as a rust remover and to be fair it seems to be on par with Evaporust but considerably cheaper. The main problem is how long it takes, around 7 days looks to be good but longer if possible, it doesn't appear to harm metal as well, unlike Evaporust which will the longer you leave it. As far as I recall Molasses is just black treacle and you may be able to find it in Tescos or Asda for instance. I'll be having a look for some next time I'm shopping. It also doesn't appear to promote flash rusting afterwards but a swill with some diesel might be a good idea for a tank.

Holland and Barratt sell 454g of Molasses for £2.50 which is cheaper per litre than Lincoln Molasses sold at Farm stores. After some calculation I work it out to you needing 3 jars to completely fill a CB500 tank which IIRCC is around 3.1 gallons. I suppose you could store it afterwards and use it again.

The newly painted rims were my spare set, luckily I bought them cheap and so I could have one pair painted without being off the road. However the front end now has a clunk it didn’t have before just as the bike comes to a stop. Maybe it’s jarred the newly installed taper bearings or maybe it’s bent the fork stanchions, got a spare pair of those complete but the ones on now are hard chromed so I’d like it if they were ok. Got a new set of radial Brembo calipers to go on as well so I might as well do everything at the same time.

I’ll be having the new rims fitted with new tyres, already got a brand new Michelin Road 6 rear free of charge off Michelin due to one of my tyres cracking so oddly they sent it back to France and cut it apart. They blamed the emissions from my freezer for causing the cracking, oddly enough the next tyre did exactly the same thing so maybe they were onto something

As I've repeatedly said Ash, the amount of work you put in can but doesn't always reflect on the amount of results you get out. Do it cheap and you'll need to do it again.

Just as an aside, had my Cb1300 wheels ceramic coated this week instead of powder coated, I had a small incident the other week whilst on my way to Dynasurf where the council decided to block off a road, mainly I suspect because it was being used as a short cut through a new estate and they wanted to stop that, so they blocked a small section of the road off, no signs etc, ripped up the pavements and laid grass, replaced the tarmac of the road with a sort of high grip surface. From a distance you cannot see the road is no longer there, it looks like the road just carries on, no railings etc. So I didn't spot the kerb lying across my path until the last minute due to low winter sun etc, hit it really hard and essentially scrapped both wheels, the front was so distorted it started to loose pressure. So to get back on track, got them done gold to match the present wheels and I'll see how they last and report back. Seen a pic of them and they look really good. I also had a LOAD of my 500 parts done at the same time, mainly as an alternative to having parts chromed, for instance, I have 6 CB550 exhaust clamps and 6 CB500 exhaust clamps, the 500s will be chromed the 550s will be chromer ceramic coated, we'll see which last better, the chrome IMO will always look better. I also had 24 exhaust collets chrome ceramic coated to see how they perform as opposed to either just leaving them as bare metal and watching them rust in short order or trying to zinc plate them and watching that get burnt off by the excessive heat of that area.

I'll post some pics when I pick them up, was supposed to be today but I've been bed bound all day.