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Messages - Oddjob
Pages: 1 ... 147 148 [149] 150 151 ... 287
2221
« on: January 27, 2023, 09:43:53 PM »
IIRC Roo the caliper does indeed have a raised cup inside the caliper body, it was a sort of inverted cup and the hard line is dished inwards to accommodate this fitting.
2222
« on: January 27, 2023, 09:42:05 PM »
Never had to do that with genuine Honda shoes Ted.
2223
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:55:27 PM »
How much did DS charge you for that?
2224
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:51:27 PM »
And yet I've had some really good deals and sometimes when I've rang him he's thrown in parts FOC. I was after a rear mudguard for a 500/550 once, rang him and in the conversation I said I was looking for the plastic inner guard, he threw it in FOC and the rear guard was really well priced. Suppose it can come down to who answers the request, some are more flexible than others.
2225
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:48:25 PM »
There are some pitfalls to using stainless rather than original bolts. First is cost, they can cost more, however a new OEM bolt will cost more still, DS and CMS don't give these away, the cost far exceeds there worth IMO. Also certain bolts can be high tensile, now stainless isn't as hard as high tensile but TBH there isn't a lot in it and I can't personally recall any bolts used in the 70s which were marked as high tensile, the brake caliper bolts for instance aren't, they just look like standard bolts. The second is that most 8mm bolts are 13mm headed these days whereas the standard Honda bolts are 12mm headed, not a big difference but they can look out of place in certain location, same with 10mm bolts, Honda tended to use 14mm heads and stainless replacements tend to have 17mm heads, on stuff like the caliper bolts this can mean getting a socket onto the head can be awkward. You can source stainless with the correct size heads now IF you know where to look, 6mm stainless seem to get 8mm headed if they are shouldered bolts as well.
I never use socket screws, they collect water if facing upwards, this encourages corrosion and you go to remove them and the inside of the socket just rounds off. Been there, done that. No problem if they are stood proud, quick grab with a pair of mole grips and they come out but not where they are sunken, points cover for example, I've also had them round off just by torqueing them up, or trying to remove even genuine Honda ones that have been in there a while, my 1300 pinch bolts for the front spindle were socket bolts, they were also coned so when they rounded off moles couldn't get a grip, ended up using a cold chisel to knock a slot into them to get some purchase.
You want a cheap alternative to JIS casing screws, use modern Honda ones, they are 8mm headed, can be found in really odd sizes like the original ones are, try sourcing 32mm x 6mm screws, you can't generally. Find a breakers on Ebay where they are breaking a bike, they tend to offer all the bolts and screws as a bundle just to get rid of them, £20 or so and you can buy a hundred or so of all different sizes. They look better, don't round off and you can use air tools to remove and fit them. Or electric if that's what you have.
2226
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:29:25 PM »
Look at it another way Ted. The spring on it's own is around £10, then you've got postage etc IF they would send it to the UK, that's most likely £10 as well. So you'd be willing to pay £20 for a spring (also second hand) but not £24 for a spring and pedal, as I said you can sell the pedal on, tidy it up, get it rechromed and it will fetch enough to pay for itself and the spring.
2227
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:25:26 PM »
The arm and the pivot bolt it's fitted to should be marked with punch dots, these line up to show you were it should be aligned. Same with the brake pedal and it's pivot arm, if that's fitted too far forward you'll get what your experiencing now as well.
2228
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:22:04 PM »
Where's the side bolt holes Ted? I can't see them or the brackets they are on.
2229
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:15:12 PM »
2230
« on: January 27, 2023, 05:12:45 PM »
I'd also advise checking the cables themselves John. They can wear against the frame and other stuff, especially if they are routed wrong, check the outer surface for abrasions etc, any that go through to the steel braid will need replacing as they allow water et to enter and that causes the inner to start to bind onto the outer. I cannot seem to find the 500 cable routing but the 550 one is almost the same except for the lower half of the clutch cable, that's in the 550F appendum. Take off the throttle tube from the right hand switchgear and grease between the tube and the bars, everything should move freely and without any drag. If anyone has oiled the cables in the past this can also cause it as the teflon coating on the inner cable swells when in contact with oil, use silicon oil instead, if need be hang the cable off a door and allow the oil to soak down overnight. Hold cable upright, slide up the inner cable and see if it drops under it's own weight, if it's free it should do easily.
If it has no pass/horn button it's off a USA model, that can be a problem as they tend to have more wires for indicator running lights etc or it could just be a copy. No biggie but I do prefer the look of the proper button.
I have quite a few parts for 500s and 550s so if you need anything let me know and I may be able to sort something out.
One thing I would advise, replace the headlight bulb with a more modern LED bulb, that is of course if your current one has an H4 fitted, the 500 got a really weak 35w headlight bulb IIRC and it's like a glow worm in a jamjar at night. If you have the OE headlight I'd strongly advise replacement with a H4 headlight, that's if you want to see at night and more importantly, allow others to see you. Most 7" headlights will fit.
Take a few more pics of the bike, some from the other side, some with the seat up and we can spot anything that doesn't look right or that you should be aware of.
2231
« on: January 27, 2023, 04:40:49 PM »
Have you got the plate (50107-390-000) it mounts on? and the small rubber that goes onto that plate that fits inside the slot in the box (83621-333-000). Without those the box won't fit.
I've possibly got the box, fitted with a new stainless steel screw and circlip if I can find it.
2232
« on: January 27, 2023, 03:04:20 AM »
For rear mudguards be more specific, do you want the 3 hole type or the 4 hole type? It would depend on what rear light bracket you currently have of course.
2233
« on: January 26, 2023, 09:42:31 PM »
Hi John, some odd things about the 500 you may not have noticed. Firstly, it seems to be in Starlight Gold, which was only ever a 500K0 colour, yours looks to be a 500K1 and should be in Candy Gold Custom, the pic Julie has posted of hers is Candy Gold Custom, it makes no difference but it's nice to know if you ever need a touch up pen for instance. My 500K1 is also in Starlight as I tend to prefer it to the Candy Gold, although mine did start off as Candy Gold. It's less metallic and a slightly golder colour with the Candy Gold having more orange in the mix I think.
Secondly, it would appear that someone has changed the switchgear as there should be a separate headlight switch mounted onto the left side of the bars, yours look like 550 switches, is the high/low switch on the left side switch? does it have a pass/horn button on the left hand switch or just a horn button like the starter motor button? Again, not a big thing, I prefer the 550 switches as well. I'd say they also swapped over the handlebars grips as well at the same time as those are 550F grips, the 500 ones were IMO pretty uncomfortable especially with no gloves.
The UK 500 never got a disc guard, the 550 did.
Not sure what the rear grabrail is off, it sits higher and longer than any I've ever seen fitted before, could be a 550K3 or another make entirely.
I'd advise not pulling the clutch in if you can help it until you find out why it's so heavy, the mechanism in the left hand casing is alloy and can break if too much stress is put on it. Could be something as simple as cable routing, which is pretty important on the 500, there's a routing diagram somewhere on the site to help you get it right. Same goes for throttle cables, routing is important.
The bike looks fine, a really good start with probably some minor work to do.
I'd like to ask a favour if I can, are the chain adjuster blocks on the GT550 the same as those on the 500? Same thickness etc as I can source GT550 ones a lot cheaper than CB500 ones.
Was never a 2 stroke kinda guy but always had a soft spot for the Suzuki Triples, yours looks great, very nice indeed.
2234
« on: January 26, 2023, 06:52:45 PM »
O-Rings have arrived. All the sizes fit. I'm leaning toward fitting 23 x 2.5mm between the tap and tank as it seems to protrude more from the body of the tap, the 2mm one protrudes but I'm thinking it's better to have a little more compression available rather than a little less.
The bowl one, both look ok TBH, but I'm thinking the 2.5mm might be better as the ID means it's fits the bowl better. I'll test it and see.
The doughnut and new bowl have also arrived. The doughnut is actually 3.5mm thick so I've ordered some 4mm Viton sheet and if I need to I'll sand it a little thinner but I'll test fit it first. All the 4 holes seem to be the same size, which is odd as the pics make them out to have at least one slightly bigger. I'll try a 4mm punch and see if the hole is large enough, if not I may need to order a 5mm one. The diameter is 20mm, in case anyone else is considering doing this. It's also very supple, they don't seem to stay that way for long though. Most of the ones I've felt were hard as rock.
If it all pans out I may sell a set of 2 rings and a new doughnut for £5 inc P&P. Approx £25 for the same in genuine Honda parts and they'll most likely be Nitrile not Viton.
2235
« on: January 26, 2023, 05:23:19 PM »
I think that because he doesn't have to get any of his employees to do any work on it that he does it for pocket money. TBH it's a decent job, not perfect but again TBH it's because I don't get the surface as smooth as they get them, mainly because I don't have a linishing machine. This is one of the levers I had done. It's more than acceptable in my eyes.  Oh and this is the exhaust clamp I had done as an experiment, to see how they would come out. I'm having some chromed and some chrome ceramic coated, those are currently being done this week. I'll fit which I like best. 
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