Honda-SOHC

Nothing 
It's there (like aways been), I'm just leaning in the curve so it's hidden. Unless photographer used photoshop to remove it, but I do not see reason to do so 

I need to check if there is some type number on my shocks, but obviously these are not 7610 type. However, length as OEM (~320mm) and except conflict with chain guard they fit

Linked to my other thread about Koni shocks that won't fit ideally, I'm considering other options to replace my stock shocks. Ideally, new one looking like OEM (chomed)

Any ideas what is actually available on the market and where to buy?
I was looking at TEC website but those declared as matching OEMs are not available... https://www.tecbikeparts.com/product/cb500f-cb550f-k-tec-chrome-shock-absorbers/ but have no idea about their performance anyway.

The reason I'm lloking for the replacement is very, very poor performance of OEM ones, bike is "jumping" on uneven surface and behaves very bad in curves... I simply need much better performance for my riding needs.

Photo of current bike with original shocks attached
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Ahhh I see now - I have different shocks obviously...looks like yours have steel (chromed) body at the bottom (clevis). Mine are aluminium ones, much more massive. So, I need to look for another solution 

And I installed them correcty, there is no way to reverse it anyway - only one hole has thread - it need to go to wheel (bolt comes from pipes side). See pic in the beginning of this thread - this is outside side

Thanks for all the great info and suggestions. Most of the small brass components are now looking pretty spruce and the little spring bit in all the needles is free (much soaking).

Im left with some corrosion and pitting on the outside walls of a couple of the emulsifier tubes although the pinholes look clean and uncorroded - I am assuming this OK?

Im going to make some replacement gaskets for the top cover above the slide arms using Flexiod from Amazon. It comes in a number of thicknesses. Can anyone tell me what thickness and if Flexoid is a poor choice, please shout out. Thanks, Mike

Mike, before deciding of you reuse brassware, check emulsification tubes for internal corrosion - I spent years investigation why I had one cyl spark plug always dark - see here https://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,25641.msg235103.html#msg235103

mine goes back to top of the battery area

Just to give you the update on this

Since last post I ordered few parts:
- shift drum stopper, neutral stopper and stopper cam plate replaced by new ones
- new clutch springs
- basket filed
- basket play adjusted (thanks to Oddjob's shim set!)
- assembled, new oil, filter etc

I did not do anything with dampers in clutch basket - I'll keep that for later (winter job, highly likely engine to be opened anyway for primary chain replacement at least)

First ride : up-shifting issue is still there, but I feel it less happening / reduced.

When testing shifting mechanism before assembly clutch and cover (with new replaced parts) I did this video to show the issue that I feel during shifting - when up-shifting, I usually cannot change gear unless I turn gearbox. Down-shift is always w/o issue. It is clearly visible in the video that when up-shifting, movement of gear drum is "stuck" in the midway and moves more when I turn gear (clutch basket shaft). This is exactly what I'm referring as my up-shifting issue.
https://youtube.com/shorts/G-AaCvEzcqE?feature=share

Question is if this is normal (so no more issue) or problem is in the gearbox itself? Maybe experts here (Bryan, Graham, Oddjob..) can comment?