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Messages - Erny
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361
« on: August 06, 2019, 01:08:18 PM »
Yes, I know, it is decribed at the beginning if this thread  BTW When i tried to measure resistance of secondary coil, I was unable to measure - not even sure if method was OK - I suppose one end of coil is end of HT lead and another is one of primary wires, correct? I tried all, I mean end of HT lead ( I tried with and without cap and plug) and other to black or yellow (had coil 2-3 for test). Each time infinite resistance... but coil works, not sure if perfect but works... What I did wrong?
362
« on: August 06, 2019, 12:46:20 PM »
Paul,
interesting info about Boyer micro digital ign, they declare power consumption less than stock, I just wonder how this can be if all coils fires at the same time (2x more sparks)?
I was thinking in the last days to buy, but will rather wait a bit - curious to see what will be result of your investigation
363
« on: August 05, 2019, 10:45:39 PM »
Those who have US import may still have sealed beam headlight that has quite low light output power (at least for me, very insufficient, even rated 40/50W) and "position light" in front indicators (that are consuming significant energy - 8W each) I wanted to convert to OEM Honda but stock H4 headlight insert is pretty expensive (Stanley) if found. Fortunately, there is pretty good and cheaper solution I just tested on my CB550K1. I was looking quite some time for good replacement insert (H4) but all I found on ebay were either not known brand to me (=no big trust) or pricey.. Finally I found Hella on amazon on pretty good price (free shipping) : https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000VU7C1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It is Hella H4 insert for continental Europe - right hand driving (Hella P/N 002 395 – 071) that is 1:1 replaceable with sealed beam. It comes with "parking bulb" already inserted in and sealing rubber cap (to protect from dust and moisture). One note for people taking care all details - Hella insert is glass, but almost flat, compare to convex stock sealed beam / H4. So, if you decide to go for: Only what you need to source additionally is H4 bulb (I highly recommend Philips X-tremeVision moto) and make 2 short wires to connect "parking bulb" that connects 6.3mm terminals on parking bulb to bullet male terminals (+12V and ground). So, female 6.3mm terminal on one side and male bullet terminal on other side. For UK - look for left handed drive alternative at Hella website (different P/N!) US import bikes have position light in front indicators - those can be now deactivaed - on my CB550K1 - simply unplug Lb/W and O/W front indicators wires from terminals in headlight and connect new "parking bulb" Lb/W or O/W terminal and connect additional wire from ground (green terminal) to parking bulb. in total, it is almost energy neutral: - US setup is 2x8W (position lights) + 40W low beam = 56W - new H4 Setup is 4W parking bulb + 55W low beam = 59W 3W delta can be compensated by swapping rear tail bulb 21/5W by LED one... Note: as I understood from other posts here or from another sources, in principle any standard 7'' H4 insert should fit, not necessary Hella only. I forgot to take some pics, I'll do and post here next time I open headlight again.
364
« on: August 05, 2019, 10:19:42 PM »
yes, they are all checked, are new NGK, I even swapped cap 2 and 3, issue remains on cyl2
Moreover, ign coil I had for test had came with caps, so I tested another coil and another cups. No change
365
« on: August 05, 2019, 09:50:21 PM »
Graham, thanks for your opinion, I start to feel the same now  I managed to have another coil (from 550F 1976) to test - result is no change, plug 2 still darker than others. Next: waiting for intake manifold to replace mine w/o grooves. Carbs will go off again, so time to re-check around air screw (did not checked before). if no improvement, I'll try to look at another carb set 
366
« on: August 05, 2019, 09:46:31 PM »
Time to work on another iusse I'd like to fix (low prio till now). I have shifting issues on lower RPMs, typically when cruising in city traffic or smooth ride (slow acceleration, shifing on low RPM up to 3-4k) It is almost impossibble to shift up from 1->2, 2->3, 3->4 nomal way, practially always neutral appears (between 1 and 2) or false neutral between 2-3 and 3-4. 4->5 usually works Scenario: When I shift, I move lever all way up and feel I cannot move more, like there is some block, more force does not help, so only neutral is engaged. If I try to keep it lifted up longer I feel block is released and upper gear is engaged, but not always. Most of the time I have to release cluch and lever, then press again clutch and then i can shift from neutral to upper gear. You can imagine it is very annoying when starting from traffic lights, you want to be fast, but then 1-neutral-2...shame  What is strange, shifting 2->3, 3->4 works fine in higher RPMs (stronger acceleration), or at least I don't observe it. Shifting 1-2 in higher RPMs is not perfect too (neutral appears) but better than in lower RPMs. Donwnshifting is OK, all gears, all RPMs. Clutch works perfectly, very smooth. I suppose this is not just a standard "feature" of 550. Was thinking if it can be related to oil used? I use mineral MOTUL 4T 3000, 20W 50, the same as on my CB750 K7 (that works perfect) Any other ideas? Should I be worried that I need to open engine? It was not open yet, 15.000 miles on the clock.
367
« on: August 05, 2019, 09:03:25 PM »
Re-opening this topic. Found I better replace HT leads on my stock coils, using above mentioned method Can somebody recommend proven supplier of HT leads? (please recomment exact type i should look for)
368
« on: August 02, 2019, 10:22:15 PM »
369
« on: August 02, 2019, 01:59:59 PM »
my pipes does not look bad from outside but have tiny holes at the bottom silencer rim. So shall not be normally bad
370
« on: August 02, 2019, 01:45:39 PM »
hmmm, interesting idea. Will try to check that, just not sure how long cable my camera has. But in theory it could explain too.
371
« on: August 02, 2019, 11:12:01 AM »
Small update : yesterday did test swapping plug caps no2 and no3 and cleaned plugs. Result is no change, no2 still dark.
Next steps
- I'll try to test with another coil 2-3 to eliminate coil no2 output (cable) issue
- replace intake manifold 1-2 to ensure rubber seals as it should
- recheck carb2 for dirt, especially around airscrew
372
« on: August 01, 2019, 02:40:05 PM »
If rim is not bent or damaged other way I would re-chome it.
373
« on: July 31, 2019, 11:47:32 AM »
Well, this I did not check honestly!
I assumed it must be clear as carbs came from Gerben completely dry, I used them first time after rebuild
But will check! Thanks!
374
« on: July 31, 2019, 11:13:46 AM »
OK, I can try. This could be manageable w/o taking carbs off the bike.
I doubt this is caused by idle jets themselves as I replaced all 4 by new Keihin genuine (38). But screw is another story.
Back to my previous question - what about eventual issue with coil / HT lead? (plug caps are new, but I can swap no2 and 3 caps at least to exclude them from investigation)
375
« on: July 31, 2019, 10:05:43 AM »
Update on this issue. Since last update I did: - replaced main jets O-rings by proper ones 3.5x1.2 (bought in local shop). O-rings I had in carbs before were smaller crossection and larger diam and main jets were quite loose in casting. I had to apply some force to push jets into castings, before they went in very easy almost zero force. I was hoping that this is main reason for my issue (leak arounf main jets O-rings). Pic showing differences between O-rings attached - replaced O-rings under intake manifolds (OEM). Another issue with manifolds discovered see another thread http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19713.msg174773.html#msg174773- replaced rubbers between manifolds and carbs by new OEM - carbs again checked for float height, including clear tube test (see pic for levels) - carbs sync'ed after full warm up - idle screws left in basic settings (1.5 turn) Result: There is zero or little improvement compare to before... Still, under ~3k RPM, using little trottle when trying to keep stable speed (cruising in the city) or trying to accelerate from ~2k - 3k still not good, engine has "hard" run, I feel it like too rich mix or like one cyl is not working. Otherwise, on higher RPM (5k+) I think bike runs well I did >60miles test, most of the time bike runs on higher RPMs (this is my favourite test route, curvy uphill/downhill area). After i came back I check plugs. Result the same as before no2 is fouled, see pic. it is dry black smoke, easy to clean with brakecleaner, not oily. I can definitely put plug issue out of the question, becase I swapped plug 1 & 2 before this test, so previously dark no2 became clean in no1 and previously clean no1 is now black in no2.. Was thinking if this could be caused by coil/spark issue on no2 (intermittent spark, HT cable broken etc)? But looking at plug there is some spark for sure. I tried to swap cables 2&3 but no2 is not long enough to reach cyl3... Can somedy advice what else I can try/test? note: Maybe no2 dark plug issue is linked to issues on low RPMs? (e.g. engine running virtually on 3 cylinders?)
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