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Messages - Laverda Dave
Pages: 1 ... 166 167 [168] 169 170 171
2506
« on: July 03, 2016, 04:54:53 PM »
Hi all,
I think I might have a problem with the front wheel spindle of the 400 project bike and I'm looking for some guidance.
I have installed new wheel bearings supplied by DS into both sides of the wheel. The spacer has been been refitted as per instructions however...... when I install the wheel spindle and torque it up to the setting as described within the Haynes manual of between 36-39lbs the spindle goes solid, i.e the wheel will not turn on the spindle. Finger tight all is fine but anything more and it gets harder and harder to spin the wheel.
All the correct spacers have been installed, the new bearings are 'home' and the wheel spindle is greased and everything moves freely. I did notice the bearings supplied from DS are sealed on both sides of the actual bearing where as the ones that came out have the balls exposed on one side although I do not know if these were genuine (and they were worn anyway). I also noticed the spacer between the bearings have three 'tangs' on each end of the spacer, are these supposed to locate inside the exposed side of the wheel bearings, although obviously they wont locate in the DS supplied bearing as they are sealed!
It appears as though the wheel spindle nut is pushing hard on the adjacent spacer that goes through the dust seal and this is pushing onto the inner bearing race and compressing everything solid?
Am I doing something wrong, is the spindle nut supposed to be torqued as per the Haynes manual or is this one of the Haynes errors?
Dave
2507
« on: July 03, 2016, 04:28:07 PM »
Chris,
I bought a 350/4 lever and knuckle from the USA thinking they were the same. After getting stung by customs and getting it home and unwrapping it I found the lever itself was about 50mm shorter compared to the genuine one fitted to my other 400/4.
At least I got the knuckle which was all I really wanted as the one with the 'project' had the usual crack in it making it useless, I already had the spare lever and now both are re-chromed they look the part.
Maybe Mr Pusher has one for sale, he did have a very nice 350/4 he was breaking or try Steve Cooper.
As an aside, I waited nearly 2 years for NLM to re-manufacture swan neck kickstart levers for the 350's to clear aftermarket rearsets. They had exactly the same issues as DS with quality problems and the levers snapping. They got some made eventually in the UK I understand.
Dave
2508
« on: July 03, 2016, 11:09:18 AM »
The knuckle is the same between a 350/4 and a 400/4 but the kickstart shaft itself is shorter on the 350.
2509
« on: June 20, 2016, 02:27:35 PM »
Hi Ash,
Excuse my ignorance but how do I navigate to your VJMC CB750 lower fork leg refurb article? I cannot seem to navigate to it via the site.
I'm just about to go into the man cave now with a huge mug of splosh and digestives to assemble the newly blasted lower fork legs.
Dave
2510
« on: June 20, 2016, 02:23:31 PM »
This is how my 400 engine rebuild journey started! When I was 17 I traded in my CB200 for a s/h 400/4 from D&H Motorcycles in Acton.
It was a great bike, a red F model. It was previously owned by an older gent who had fitted a huge barn door fairing, massive top box and suitcase sized panniers complete with front and rear crashbars. I removed all of it within a couple of days including the front crashbar.
I replaced the bolt and went for a ride, when I arrived home the engine was smothered in oil. The crashbar mounting bolt had replaced the original lower engine mounting bolt and was slightly longer to take into account the 3mm crashbar mounting lug. it was too long and split the lower engine case when I replaced it although I didn't notice at the time.
I tried the epoxy glue, liquid metal, chewing gum, body filler method and nothing worked. I ended up buying a s/h engine from Frank in Ealing when he used to break bikes in a garden shed!
6 months and many miles later I took the engine apart to replace the cam chain on the dinning room table (the tin of linklife chain lube was boiling up on the gas stove and the cylinder head replaced the leg of lamb in the oven at the same time).
2511
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:52:11 PM »
I have rebuilt four 400 engines over the years and they have all had the same issue as yours does. As I normally have the engines apart for a rebuild I use a fine file to clean up where the aluminium casting has been turned over by the flapping cam chain.
I've never had a problem with any engines following the rebuild and file surgery although I always install a new cam chain, both tensioner blades and the sprung tensioner horseshoe making sure the tensioner plunger has no markings caused by previous owners over-tightening the tension adjuster.
2512
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:40:09 PM »
That's a very nice bike, the colour suits the location 
2513
« on: June 16, 2016, 11:52:43 PM »
I second that thought, great site. Thanks Steve.
2514
« on: June 14, 2016, 09:38:52 PM »
Thanks for the advice, all now on order  . Obtaining the correct coils with a 4-ohm resistance is proving very, very difficult though!
2515
« on: June 08, 2016, 06:00:39 PM »
I fitted a Boyer to my 400/4 in 1992, its still in there going strong and I have never had to do anything to it once it was set. Ill be fitting another one to my project 400/4 no question.
2516
« on: June 07, 2016, 10:33:50 PM »
I'm having to replace the coils and plug caps on the 400/4 project as the old ones are past it being cracked and broken. DSS has the correct? black plug caps for cylinders 2&3 but not 1&4. The price seems a bit on the expensive side though and I can only get two but need all four so I'm looking at buying a full set of black NGK's from e-bay at a third of the price. Can anyone advise of the correct NGK plug cap ordering codes, there appears to be so many all with slightly different angles?Does anyone know if I can get the coils cheaper on e-bay, DSS are charging 29.95+vat+p&p per coil? I'll post a few pics of the rebuild so far in the next few days, the engine is now complete and ready to fit into the frame and the marathon carb re-build is finally over but they are not yet tested for leaks although all the jets, needles, gaskets and o-rings have been changed throughout including the link tubes and I live in hope  Dave
2517
« on: June 07, 2016, 09:48:09 PM »
Thanks for the info Chris. I think this is a case of Sod's Law in action! I bought an endoscope last Thursday on Amazon, I go into Lidl and Aldi every week to check out their deals!!!! The one I bought cost 65 pounds and is made by Teslong with a lithium battery, 3 meg camera, snapshot and record onto a supplied memory card. It had good reviews (5 star) so I just thought I'd buy it with my Christmas vouchers . It appears to be pretty good although not used in anger yet, that will be next week when I look down the bores on my Jota (Honda Jota  ............). I'll give some feedback next week just in case anyone else is thinking of buying one. Dave
2518
« on: May 27, 2016, 02:06:36 PM »
Thanks for the advice so far. Roy, if you can let me know the make of your one that would be good.
I have an Aldi near me, I'll see if they have anything.
2519
« on: May 27, 2016, 01:03:01 PM »
Hi there all,
Does anyone here have any experience of buying and using an endoscope on their bikes? I'm looking to buy one with the Amazon vouchers I got for Crimbo. There appears to be an amazing array of these for sale with very few having reviews!
I need to get one with a small enough camera to go down a spark plug hole to look into the combustion chamber etc so the led lamps would need to be good. Picture and video recording would be ideal. If anyone has used one and can recommend a model this would be good.
Dave
2520
« on: April 25, 2016, 02:59:09 PM »
It's still nice though. I agree with you Ash, the 400/4 is undervalued. Prices seem to be stagnant compared to Dukes  . At least being low in price more folks will want to ride them and not sit looking at their 'investment'.
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