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Messages - bruxby-clive
16
« on: August 01, 2022, 12:26:35 PM »
Apologies, to clarify my earlier post, I tend to use the corrosion block grease on bolts ETC, preferring marine grade grease on pivot shafts and wheel spindles and copper slip on anything that could get hot, although it does say in their data sheet that it can be used at high temperatures, I haven't tried it.
17
« on: July 31, 2022, 11:21:44 AM »
I have found Corrosion Block grease to work really well on most areas, although I revert to copper slip where high temperatures are present. Here is a link to the makers web site they also produce ACF 50. http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm
18
« on: July 31, 2022, 10:32:39 AM »
That's a really nice looking 500, enjoy.
19
« on: July 29, 2022, 10:24:58 AM »
I think you should also check the loom over as it is probably corrosion or old wiring that has caused resistance within the cables and generated heat at the weakest point, causing the fuse holder to melt.
20
« on: June 17, 2022, 08:47:29 AM »
Hi Ted, where did you get your plugs from? I had an intermittent fault on my KH 250 which I finally traced down to a sparkplug breaking down, my fault as I bought them off eBay, as soon as I replaced the plug normal service was restored. Although I do appreciate that as it is with 2 cylinders it is unlikely but worth a check.
21
« on: June 14, 2022, 09:14:01 PM »
Thanks Oddjob.
22
« on: June 14, 2022, 04:23:38 PM »
That looks really nice, enjoy your new bike.
23
« on: June 14, 2022, 04:17:02 PM »
Could someone please confirm the correct cable runs for the clutch and throttle cables on a 500K2. Thanks in advance.
24
« on: June 11, 2022, 07:57:02 AM »
Not mine either, that looks really garish. Sometimes less is definitely more. I am sure the original Harrier was far more restrained.
25
« on: June 10, 2022, 01:57:54 PM »
Had me crying with laughter.  Absolutely brilliant!
26
« on: June 01, 2022, 06:42:34 AM »
Simon, I have never had any issues with a successful crimp on the cable where the insulation is, it is the stripped end that causes me the issue, only on the 1mm cable, 2mm crimps just fine, that's why I decided to bend mine over before crimping, doesn't look quite so tidy as just the straight bit of cable being joined to the connector, but mechanically stronger. Also as Alan mentioned I always give each joint a pull, before I make the crimp to the insulated part of the cable. Would probably be easier with ratchet crimper but I haven't got one. As for how the manufacturers do it I have no idea, but guess they may have an individual tool for each individual type of connector. Hope this helps.
27
« on: May 31, 2022, 06:53:52 PM »
Final part of the loom replacement, I have refitted it to the bike and am very pleased as everything works apart from the reg / rec, but replacing the loom was not going to fix that. I have retaken the voltage readings again and the results are shown below.
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12.61 volts with the ignition switched off.
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11.87 with the ignition on, but it dawned on me that both coils would be live and all of the warning lights are also on. Removing the 9 pin connector to the warning lights and disconnecting the 2 coils gave me a reading shown below.
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12.60 volts, if you factor in the voltage drop of 0.74 of a volt, this is from a battery that needs recharging after running the bike for approximately 20 to 30 minutes without any charging that seems quite good to me. if we subtract 0.74 of the first reading I got at the beginning 12.72 volts, I should have had a reading of around 11.98 volts, so the new loom has reduced the volt drop by 1.36 volts or around 10%, there is a formula to work out the resistance in the old loom but I can't remember it. All in all I believe thee work was worthwhile and I hope this may encourage someone else to have a go at creating or repairing their own wiring looms.
28
« on: May 31, 2022, 01:48:08 PM »
Simon, good luck with the rewire of your camper, take your time and I am sure it will work out fine. Alan thanks for your input.
29
« on: May 31, 2022, 11:08:39 AM »
Hi Simon To answer your questions; 1. I find wrapping the self amalgamating tape around itself before moving down the branch is enough, although I go around both sides of the branch before moving on. 2. With the 1mm thin wall I have doubled the stripped end over on itself before crimping to provide a bigger area for the crimp to bite on. I use this crimping tool https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-51-crimp-tools/c-119-non-insulated-terminal-crimping-tools not the greatest but adequate if only doing the odd loom, if I was doing it regularly I would go for a ratchet crimper like this; https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-51-crimp-tools/c-119-non-insulated-terminal-crimping-tools/p-269-ratchet-crimping-tool3. Given that thin wall has a greater current carrying ability and makes the loom thinner in size, I would always use it, you can still get the old style cable, but I think the range of available colours may not be quite so good. It is probably down to your individual choice, although hopefully, Big Al may be able to provide a more technical view on the matter, he is far more knowledgeable than myself.
30
« on: May 30, 2022, 09:25:16 PM »
Finally for today a couple of pictures of the completed loom.
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