Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Project Board => Topic started by: ST1100 on December 12, 2015, 09:17:21 PM
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Hi all,
well, its starting, kinda...
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that hideous saddle has to go...
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rear fender beyond any attempts...
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one of many "...WTF where they thinking?!!..." moments...
Unfortunately is that K2 rear bumper/grab rail missing... will need to chase that down...
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see above... :(
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main-stand pedal actually cut off... good that I've stashed a spare in mint condition...
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silencers and downpipes not looking good...
And note those passenger pegs, their massive, like filed out a lump of steel...
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uh-boy... AME-bling... can you spot the mistakes?
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more bling-bling...
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interesting disk setup...
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messed up clocks...
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plumber's hose-clips... :o
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a piece of garden hose serving as case vent...
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IGN lock bracket: mounting tabs seriously bend and something rasped down... :-\
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again: what were they thinking...
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no comment...
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what IS this???
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definitely some DIY sizzling...
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fuel tank in astonishing good condition though...
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even the mesh/filter still alive...
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prepping the shipment to Menno...
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another disaster area...
Apparently the lug for the brake pedal pivot has been torn off once, and "sizzled" back in place...
Bad that the tab with the pedal stop-bolt is missing...
Swapping the frame won't be an option, as this will mean to loose the original title of that motorcycle...
So lots of work there...
First I'll get switches, electrics, throttle and clutch cables working again... swap the carbs out...
Give the engine some service (valve clearances, compression check, etc...) to check if its even firing up and running...
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Crikey, that old girl is going to need some love. Good luck with the build.
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LOL! ;D Any affinities to Oz? ;)
Removed that badly mangled rear fender... and then some...
Rear t/signal posts had been painted over, will see if they can be brought to shine again...
Wiring harness is a mess... requiring replacement was expected...
Discerned a not original regulator with wider housing, interfering with the inner fender, bending the electric base outward...
Freed the stubborn, corroded shut filler cap... dipstick bone dry... case reeking like old transmission fluid...
Removed one of those fancy, also stubborn AME tappets (must have been installed with an impact wrench back then >:( ), to pour 1ltr fresh 10W40 down the galleries... no instant leaks spotted ;)
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Carb isolators, intake rubbers and all cables (throttle, clutch) ordered... in stock, gonna pick them up Friday...
Will see if I get to tune the engine this w/e...
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Dropped this seller a line if he could also assembly a tool-set for a CB500K2...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252161743335?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D252161743335%26_rdc%3D1
Guess what, he does... will ease the task at hand tremendously 8)
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Removed the carbs today... use of a heat gun does help, but them old rubbers proved to be stubborn as a mule...
Couldn't get the isolators off the intakes though, so I sliced the open ends with the wire cutter and tore them apart...
Removed the plugs, all quite sooty... and the wrong type: D8EA instead of DR7ES installed...
Odd that one has to remove the rev cable for proper access... and good that I have a number of OEM Honda tools (plug socket) around...
Threw the lens-end of the endoscope down the plug threads, huge deposits on the crowns... only on #1 I can make out the embossed number, the others have a too thick crust...
Used an oiler to get a few drops of 10W40 into each cylinders...
Checked valve clearances, odd procedure, some were tight, did 3 runs to be sure... at least the engine turns freely by hand...
Points plate looks OK, contacts corroded, isolation of cap cords crumbled off... new parts already on the shelf...
Installed a € 25,- replica ignition lock, attached the boost-starter, flipped the switch and... we've power!
- oil warning OK
- neutral dark, either switch dodgy or bulb burned out, will sort that out later...
- t/signal/s working, astonishing
- HIGH/LOW working, same...
(switches are in really bad shape, some only have the metal-prong left, but their all working!)
And the horn resembles a croaky road-runner... ;)
So I broke out the compression tester:
#1: 5.7 bar
#2: 6.0 bar
#3: 6.0 bar
#4: 0.0 bar... zero, zilch, nothing... bugger... ???
Can't tell yet if its burned, bend or a shaft seizing in the guide...
At least I now know that oil pump and switch are working...
So, should I drop the engine out the frame right away, or start by removing only the head with case still installed...
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You can remove the plug in No3 cylinder quite easily with the genuine Honda plug spanner that comes with the bike.
LOL! ;D
Somewhere out there must be an ocean floating with "lost" OEM tools ;)
No such thing on a 40 year old bike, dunno what people do with them, I carefully keep mine in place and shape on all my vehicles...
I used a long Honda plug spanner with 12mm hexagon head for removal (I had floating around in one of my treasure chests), but not the Honda spanner (will have to get me a proper sized socket for the ratchet kit ASAP...); still found it safer to remove the tach cable, also hose and adaptor of the compression check manometer like the clearance gained.
Likely a valve has rusted or seized into the valve guide, can you see the valve going up and down as the motor spins?
Rockers moving properly during valve clearance check, valves didn't appear to remain stuck open then, nor would the visual "height" of the adjuster bolts inside the rocker arm suggest such...
I suspect a shot outlet valve there, but will check again today, this time also armed with a fully charged car battery, since the small boost starter thingie doesn't deliver much "omph" (its Chinese battery is only sufficient for about 3 starts on a good, promptly firing engine like the 16 valve V4 of an ST1100... I actually had to recharge it between testing #2 and #3 ;) )
Since the frame needs sanding and paint, I'll have to drop the engine out anyway; I'd only like to collect an "inventory" while all is still together in working order...
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Ha! Made it and freed the bugger up again 8)
After the valve clearance got "tight" again after 2~3 cranks, I went to a desperate manoeuvre and poured like 10ml Datacol (carb cleaner fuel additive) down each plug hole, plugged them, gave the engine a brief crank to squirt the cleaner around and let it sit for about an hour.
Then raised the paper towels a bit from the plug holes and cranked the engine a couple of times to belch the stuff out... yuch, quite some black goo...
Then peeked in with another, better endoscope with periscope bit:
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Yay, the distinctive mark indicates the valve is now actually touching the seat :D
Gave the valve clearances another run, #4 out again tight, loosened it, another 5~6 cranks (the B.A. car battery serves well) and it seems to have settled now.
So I did another compression check: 6 Bar on all 4 now!
Still only half the pressure a new engine would reach, but I a) don't know how good my compression test kit truly is, or b) how corroded the valve seats are, c) condition of rings, d) etc...
With all the tinkering not only the oil pressure is up at the instant, with some oil gushing around in the case also the neutral switch decided to get back into working state again, so we've a green light there ;D
Checked the ignition next, both capacitors dented + cable insulation thorn -> replaced.
Adjusted points gap and checked timing, gave it a run, no spark on #1 & #4... :o
ID-ed LH point as culprit, threw a new one in, now spark on all 4 cylinders, good 8)
While at it I removed the RH switch-pod, freed the throttle pipe, installed new throttle cables and put all back on again...
Will see if and how I'm motivated tomorrow to a) get up early, b) install a cab-bank and c) pour some 98oct into the w/shop tank bottle and try firing the bugger up ;)
Only a brief run to get the oil warm so I can drain it and fill new one.
Once cooled off I should check valve clearances again in case rust & deposits have burned off the seats and valves...
So that's the current state now:
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And that's the helpful plug socket I managed to unearth
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That manual you have there is only for the VERY early 500 and has some glaring inconsistencies with the later K0 and onwards
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Thanx for the info, I noted that the engine pics do show the edged K0 case, but till now the manual hasn't let me down...
And I couldn't locate a distinctive CB500K2 manual anywhere, they all offer only '71~'73...
Only the parts catalogue (which is the most helpful yet) is a K2 edition
Even DS doesn't list a K2 ED model, only the US K2 which differs...
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There is no specific Honda manual for the K2 as the Honda one covers all the 500 and the 550 models. The K2 was a 73 model. I do have all the manuals and parts books i have on a cd/dvd
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Loving your restoration posts ..keep em coming 'warts and all' please !
Luckily, the 500 manual is spot on for my restoration ...even shows the correct crankcases . The manuals I have for 500/550 are in my Dropbox link but guess you have those already
Bryan ,were there any Service Bulletins for the 500/550 like they did for the 750?
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...keep em coming 'warts and all' please !
Yeah, still shows all the dirty and agonizing stuff long before the shiny and bling stages when finally done someday ;)
Wait till I brake out the angle grinder to cut and smoothen off all those "additions" some PO's welded to the frame decades ago...
The manuals I have for 500/550 are in my Dropbox link but guess you have those already
Collected those in good quality (so not the Honda4Fun ones...) down to the CB550F2 supplement long before actually starting the work, and merged them into a 190 page *.pdf, which I'll choke through my duplex printer later today (hard to work from a screen on a bike, one needs to have the paper right on the bench there...).
Basically the CB500K2 seems to be a 550 with smaller engine... LH switch pod like the 750 (horn/pass combo), clutch interlock switch, the "newer" clutch design... so I'll have to be carefully when ordering parts, but thanx to your link to the parts list (also printed) I can hunt more accurately.
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Sorry mate the K2 had the original 500 clutch it was the K3 that was a sleeved down 550
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Sorry mate the K2 had the original 500 clutch it was the K3 that was a sleeved down 550
I wrote it seems, haven't opened the cover yet ;)
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So, the Ricoh is ticking off the heat (and screaming for new toner ;D)
My edition of CB500-550 w/shop is sorted and ready to get stapled (too thick for my small spiral binder)...
Think I'll keep Sundays for the more administrative parts of the project/s, like research, ordering parts, etc...
BTW: when working on the K2 I found the contacts plate to be shot...
Some ham-fisted PO managed to strip the thread for the bolt holding the right point and jammed a slotted M6 into there (which is why I'd only replaced the left one yet...)
So I had to go for a new points plate assy... another € 45,-...
Still not sure if and what electronic ignition I'd go later on...
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Thanx, nice offer I will return to in the future, especially on some rare items.
Just don't know if everyone is willing to part from his stash that easily ;-)
And at this time of the year, folks might have other things on their minds...
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Like my bleached and mangled pilot lights console, which has [turn - high - oil - neutral] whilst all offered come with [turn - oil - neutral - high]... :(
Methinks such items then qualify for the [desperately seeking] columns...
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Till current day only one found with "my" configuration, and that's in not so good shape...
Received the CB500 Owner's Manual today, nice read ;D
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Removed that knackered points plate, pulled advancer, freed the moving parts (yep, stuck...), lubed them, sprayed some untold liquids (http://www.picgifs.com/smileys/smileys-and-emoticons/sticking-tongue-out/smileys-sticking-tongue-out-486576.gif) on the assy to stop corrosion, cleaned ignition housing (found drain hole clogged with engine sealer??), put all back together, adjusted ign timing, tested: nice, solid spark on all four.
Started toying with the one (out of four) nice looking cab bank:
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Amazing how aggressive fuel can be...
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Found an unusual VR made by BOSCH:
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That RCA transistor alone might make it worth keeping though... ;)
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Design or air-box, resp. position of the drain seems to depend on year of MFG?
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The K2 utilises the lower one, stub at the LHS.
I do wonder why the engine breather isn't routed into the air-box as on current vehicles.
Would burning those gases have ill effects on the engine??
Air filter housing and lid are in bad shape:
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Found a NOS housing though, still in need of lid, mesh-cover and all the metal hardware/stays it (once) was mounted to the frame...
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Air breather from cam cover never went anywhere except to atmosphere as there were no emission regs when bike was built, drain from air box has a split end to allow water to drain out.
That sidepanel badge you wanted must be a european only one as the US K2 parts book I aquired shows the original type as being on the K2
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...there were no emission regs when bike was built...
Yeah, we even had leaded fuel back then... ;)
Still, would it actually hurt to route the case vent into the air box?
That sidepanel badge you wanted must be a european only one as the US K2 parts book I aquired shows the original type as being on the K2
Yep, the rig is a CB500K2-ED; not an F nor a G...
It even has the clutch interlock switch... interesting that all CB500 wiring diagram omit that, only shown in the 550 grid...
Sooo... which wiring harness do I need to obtain later??
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If you want the interlock get a US 550 loom
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If you want the interlock get a US 550 loom
Well, mandatory for the MOT... safety relevant and that...
Only that I've yet not found the little control box for that... probably removed by any of the POs...
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Don't have a contol box on all of them frequently just a diode
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Don't have a contol box on all of them frequently just a diode
That one I located and wondered, familiar with such circuitry on my ST1100, why there is no switch present... till I found the empty bore in the switch pod...
According to the parts list and evidence present on the bike, the CB500K2 also utilized a turn signal buzzer, plus the 2-step ignition lock, enabling the parking light function (tail-light on with key out).
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re w
Air breather from cam cover never went anywhere except to atmosphere as there were no emission regs when bike was built, drain from air box has a split end to allow water to drain out.
Hi Guys ,
At the moment I have just got a CB550 K0 (built date 7/73 from DK which I have started working on .
The engine air breather does go to the air box .and on my Cb750 K6 USA Built (1976) does not go there !!
Interesting work going on in this tread and I am reading to see for any tips for my Bike . Hopefully will start my own tread too!!
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The 550 did recirc the gases the 500 never did
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Well, my friend finally rolled his z750 off the platform, so I placed the K2 on it to get some real work done... (hate having to crawl on the floor...)
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Bottom of engine shows seepage...
Possible the outdrive seal, maybe also the oil-filter housing, will deal with that later when dropping the engine out.
Fork bottoms are in not so good conditions, especially the RH shows severe lateral clearance...
The wheel moves so far, that when pushing the bike around with fully tilted steering, the rotor seizes in the calliper... :-\
Any way to overhaul those forks? Like getting them milled out, cold-shrink a stainless steel pipe into them and having that honed to factory specs?
Tips appreciated (will have to use an other front end anyway, but still need the repair option)
Placement of electrical connectors, respectively the shell for the fuse box seems out of place; will have to search for pics showing the proper setup,
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Fastening point for the seat lock base is cracked and in need of fixing, will have to brake out the electric welding kit for other minor repairs anyway.
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Anyone knows what that welding spot/mark origins from?
K2 frame:
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K1 frame:
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spare frame:
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Too far forward to having been the helmet holder...
BTW: did all bikes/years have those? How to recreate best?
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Keyster bolt-sets and rep-kits arrived; also thanx to Honda Classic Restoration Services for providing the brilliant tool-set.
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On such old, neglected rigs carb restoration isn't a plug and play job...
Ended up with taking the two best looking banks apart; at times quite a challenge...
Float axles stuck, took a while of gently tapping them back and forth till they finally broke loose and slipped out.
Tip of a slow jet broke off in the housing while unscrewing, managed to drill the remains out with a 2mm bit.
In one Keihin the slide was completely gummed up, wouldn't bulge, wouldn't move for even one millimetre.
Took me a while, but eventually managed to get it out without braking things.
Pre-cleaned all in my small parts cleaner (the Chinese steel tank thingie with circulation pump for €35,- comes quite handy...), then took all the bits and pieces home, to...
...well, currently am I running a dishwasher load full of carbs ;D
Once everything is neat and dry I'll throw together one working carb set, to see if the engine will fire and run, and to warm it up for a first proper oil-change.
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How did the carbs come out after the dishwasher. Did that with mine and the alloy was almost black afterwards. Had to have them vapour blasted to get the shine back. Probably should have run it without detergent?
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How did the carbs come out after the dishwasher.
Not a blind believer of instructions given by the industry/marketing, I generally use only 1/2 a tab ;D
So no discolouration, the dark grey carb bodies got evenly dull, the (chromed or painted now? ;) ) top covers and bowls clean and degreased on the outside, but kept all nicks and scratches, so will require some polishing later on.
The base plate, rod, belly-crank and linkages turned out really nice, would have taken a lot of time and efforts to get them this Q-tip clean by hand.
The dried up goo and crusts in the chambers did not go away, but I didn't expected that; will have to detail that manually with throttle body cleaner this afternoon.
The parts did loose the stench and remains of the petroleum based engine cleaner, nicely degreased with the 70°C cycle, of course are all shafts and joints now in need of disassembly for lubrication, as done during any full overhaul anyway.
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So, today's work unit started with a pile of parts from two carb banks...
Did some detailing with carb body cleaner, gasket remover and a small brush, another rinse, washing down with brake cleaner and blowing out every bore and channel.
Then scrambled the most useful looking items for building my test carbs.
Quite some work, sliders got new needles, all linkage points (springs, pans, ball-joints) a tiny dab of BelRay marine grease (probably the first lubrication they saw again since leaving the factory...), choke axle & lever on #1 required removal and adjustment (bend handle...), a few drops of engine oil on the surfaces of the sliders prior installation, same on the axles of the choke flaps.
The actuators, washers, springs, spacers, felt rings, etc... all cleaned and lubed before installing them.
Did a "bench sync" by using the shaft of a 3mm drill-bit as feeler-gauge, all is moving smooth and effortless again now.
Started to install jets and nozzles, to ensure damage free fitment all O-rings got a tiny dab of silicone grease smeared on...
Will have completed that tomorrow, and probably try to start the engine then...
The quality of the materials used by Honda keeps astonishing me... 4 decades of neglect and abuse, just clean and adjust, fully operational again...
Like the top covers and bowls, a little rub with a tiny dab of Autosol (probably spit would have served just as well ;) ), a brief buff with a soft cloth and suddenly you've got bling on the bike 8)
Seems a genuine Honda doesn't break by itself, it requires ignorant people to ruin it... ;D (except those build in Atessa which already rusted away while still in the showroom, but that was a different story anyway...)
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sound likeyou are getting stuck in ST
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Occupational hazard I guess... and respect for the ingenuity of those bikes...
Also my ST1100's always receive that aviation-like attention to details... pays off when you're abroad for two weeks, far from home, like somewhere up north in Scotland or deep in the south of France... the rig never let me down... the least you want is a spoiled ride/vacation over some neglect...
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... ITS AAALIIIIIIIVVVVVVVEHHH!!! ... ;D
But, first things fist...
Tinkering with the bits 'n pieces...
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Planning to use jubilee-clips for air-box rubbers or holding those fancy pods?
Please don't... :-\
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...a real PITA to straighten those dents again ???
the MFG designed those steel bands for a reason...
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A little before and after comparison
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all pretty much set up
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Note the different gasket-groove on the carb bowls from different sets.
LHS features small grabbing-bulges enabling the use of O-ring type gaskets as delivered with the Keyster sets,
RHS (probably earlier years??) instead do require the pre-shaped seals
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All buttoned up, ready to be thrown at the bike
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I did not want to use any new bolts at first, but all the old ones are so corroded and rounded off, I just didn't have the heart at the end... ;)
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Had a wrestle with those new carb rubbers of course...
Having a heat-gun, priceless... 8)
Those refurbed carbs do look a bit out of place on that old beaten up motorcycle
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Weird setup with that infusion bottle thing dangling from the ceiling ;D
Need to get me a proper IV-pole ASAP...
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One of those vintage SUN-monitors aside would really make a statement in that assemble ;)
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Of course is there no such thing as easy...
#1 tended to overflow... fixed...
#4 didn't want to fill at all... fixed that to...
Fortunately only the two outboard carbs were acting out... yes, it is possible fixing that with the bank on the bike ;)
Attached and adjusted the throttle cables... working as one can expect with the old switch-pod and grip on...
So, we've oil topped up and instant oil pressure within two starter revolutions, which is a good sign of some sort...
We've reworked carbs and fuel in them...
OK, choke working nicely, set to about 1/2, throttle closed...
To be honest, I didn't really expect what happened next...
Careful me I never operate a starter motor longer then like 3~5 seconds...
...vieeee-vieeee-vieeee...
...vieeee-vieeee-vieeee...
...vieeVRRROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM....
WTF just happened??!!!!
40 years of sooth, rust, abuse and neglect belching out that tulip-endpipes, stinking up the place within seconds with the engine screaming to life at steady 3000RPM... :o
Stunned I hit the kill-switch and ran to kick them doors open...
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...couch-couch... ;D
Can this really be???
Confused I'm switching back to RUN and blip the starter button:
...vieeVROOOOOOOOMMMM...
Yes, it runs!
No knocking, no clatter, no abnormal noises... I'm flabbergasted...
I reach near the downpipes, and indeed all 4 emit heat into the palm of my hand...
I walk around the bike, no oil or other liquids pouring out...
Moving the choke to off I get brave, trying to gently work the throttle... vrooom-vrooom-vrooom... carefully avoiding going higher then ~4000rpm yet... blizzards of rust bits flying out the end-pipes, but hey it likes that, it want's to go! Smooth... ;D
Any spectators around would need to wear respirators and ear-muffs though... ;)
What a persistant little motorsickle... grounded and neglected for I don't know how long, flawlessly firing up at the 3rd push already?!... un_F_believeable!!! I think I'm finally smitten... 8)
I'm familiar with such reliability from the V-4 plants in the ST1100, but those engines are from the 90ies and a V... not a line-4 from the 70ies...
Since I couldn't get the idle lower then ~2500rpm in a quick way (will deal with that in a second work-run on them carbs), I stopped the engine after aprox 5 minutes to let the now warmed oil drain (an what a black sludge that was... ::) ).
Them PO also hadn't used a crush-washer on the drain bolt, so it was torqued hard but came off without damages...
While that "tar" drained I broke out the shop-vac (big ass Hoover for you ;) ) to clean up the mess that starting incident left all over the place...
Once the house was clean, I closed the doors to keep the winter cold out and focused on the CB again...
Bad news: that oil filter bolt just won't bulge, it was already rounded and slightly damaged so I refrained from applying any further excessive forces, will deal with that later, probably need to cut it off or have a go with the impact-wrench, unless you guys have any good tips there...
Anyway, new 10W40 went in, to ready it for the next test run...
I'll remove and rework them carbs again (ridiculous if they couldn't be brought back into full working condition, damn...), check/adjust the valve clearances once more and once I can establish a proper 900~1100rpm idle, I'll check mixture and sync...
And once the engine has belched, coughed and spit out most of them cobwebs and deposits, I'll have another look at the compression to decide where to go from there.
And, note to myself: the next test run happens outdoors... ;D
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You should have known it would run its a Honda after all.
Plenty of heat on the stubborn filter bolt should free it.Don't forget to put the spring back in when you do free it.I forgot to put it in mine twice.
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You should have known it would run its a Honda after all.
Yep, got that right... should have known better ;)
Thanx for the tip, planning to have a go with the blowtorch later on, during the next oil change (want to flush the case as good as possible).
Dunno yet if I've should break the engine open or not...
If it runs smoothly and shows proper compression?
Maybe I do just the top-end, overhaul the head, new timing chain, tensioners...
What's the general view there? It has done 40.000km... how durable are those engines?
SC26 plants will easily last 400~500.000km, with proper maintenance provided though...
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My green k1 had 70k on the clock and showed excellent compression that had also stood for years.
I should change the timing chain really I suppose
Its still running perfect at 80k and it gets pushed at times
I have a rule if it runs it runs if it did it in the 70's it will do it today.
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Its also my opinion that a factory build engine won't grow any better by someone (me) knocking it apart...
Just treat and handle properly, apply care when servicing and address any issues prompt and accordingly.
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If it wont tick over and the idle screw is unadjusted all the way plus play on the cable chances are that you have got the adjusters screwed in so much that the slides are "Hanging" on the adjusters.
To get the filter bolt out its either a 3/16 or 1/4 Whitworth socket that is a "Hammer Fit" on the bolt head
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My cb500/4 got to 170 000 miles before I had any reason to go inside the engine. Even then the primary chain hadn't taken lumps out of the crankcase or anything sinister, only issue was she would not stay in 1st or second under load. My own view is that if you can attain that kind of milage with little more than oil changes then taking a healthy engine appart is a waste of time and gasketts. On the other hand I have had other sohc 550's where the inside of the engine has been in a very bad way at 30k miles, these have inevitablynsuffered from rebuilds by beginners before I got to them. My rule of thumb, if it looks good, sounds good and runs good leave alone. If there are any sighns of gaskett goo owning previous owners, then have the rocker cover off, check oil supply to top end, then play it by ear from there.
regards oil filter bolt, set of stilsons / pipe wrench has often proved effective for me.
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...chances are that you have got the adjusters screwed in so much that the slides are "Hanging" on the adjusters...
Since idle screws are set properly to 1+1/8th turn out, also my theory that I simply overlooked having the slides resting on the bottom of the bodies with no tension on idle adjuster, belly-crank or cable...
But since also the floats are acting up a little, I'll have to make a do over anyway... considering their original condition I actually didn't expect getting them to work perfectly right away... ;)
So, the plan is
a) get them carbs working properly
b) check valve clearances again (rust & deposits might have worked off)
c) sync and adjust to a nice, smooth idle/tick-over
d) shift through the gears with the bike secured(!) on its main-stand (no working brakes yet...) with the rear wheel spinning as load
e) remove breather cover for inspection
f) have another compression test
If nothing serious appears, I could then dump the oil again and remove that filter case before dropping the engine out the frame for restoration processes...
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Not much new yet...
Parcels keep arriving: new oil bolt, new (NOS!) air-filter housing (essential as the old one was drilled, thus provide altered air-restriction), a set of new coils (pattern parts though...)...
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Reworked the carbs (float movement, height and max opening angle, should do now)
Removed the stubborn oil filter bolt (air-wrench, and the thing was on with a LOT more then 27Nm >:( ... the nut did quite a nibbling on the flanks of the 14mm bolt head, but eventually it did came off...; then new bolt now has a 17mm head...), enabling me to replace the filter element.
Quite some goo inside the filter housing (who knows when that last oil change took place...), all carefully cleaned and assembled.
While emptying the plastic drain-pan, I found tiny metal flakes on the bottom, sized like the particles in metallic paint... dunno yet if that's cause to be concerned...
Topped up the oil, checked valve clearances again (yep, did change due the last real engine run...), in which I found the delivered valve adjuster coming quite handy.
Carefully straightened some slightly bend fins on head and cylinders and inspected the engine all around:
- seal of outdrive shaft is leaking (found a fresh drop right below), wonder if seal can be replaced from the outside...
- threads of one breather-cover bolt are stripped... as its the one right below the stub for the breather-hose not much material for installing a TimeSert there...
- apparently were 4 bolts holding the valve-cover once stripped too... thus valve-cover has been drilled and the head re-cut to M8 instead the original M6... not cool, means I'll need a new valve-cover in decent condition, possible a new head too if TimeSert won't work...
When having to do the top-end anyway, I can as well also do the bottom... more work, more $$ but I get that "metal flakes in oil" issue off my mind... :-\
Further:
- bracket holding rear brake light switch has been tempered with/different part welded on... will need to fabricate a new one, matching the OEM design...
- front calliper bracket has been drilled (a 2nd "adjuster bolt hole"???... WTF!!) for no apparent reason...
- apparently had a PO once worn the pads down way beyond limits, so the rotor took like 4mm out of calliper part B which is therefore also done...
Filled bore of calliper part A with penetration oil to, hopefully free the piston; will try to remove it next w/e...
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On a 500 metal flakes are usualy from where the primary chain rubs on cranckcase when chain wears but sometimes can be cam chain
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Personally I would never run or use an engine of unkown history, without totally stripping it. It makes me cringle when DK give bikes a 'snort of ether' to check if a bike that's stood for yonks runs or not.
Take the 'weather seized ' '69 CB350K1 I got from DK ..10k miles, perfect inside (cam/rockers/bores etc.) but a PO has put fasteners back loose inside and I found a mangled up split pin jamming the gearbox ..so not weather seized at all plus a dried out wasp. The 8k mile CB175K5 I just got had a broken kickstart...wouldn't turn the engine over... I had to completely strip the engine to investigate (well bottom end at least) and found teeth broken off the kickstart pinion.. suppose I could just have used it with electric start but what havoc would bits of gear teeth done to an otherwise perfect engine? Definitely going to completely strip the 500K0
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On a 500 metal flakes are usualy from where the primary chain rubs on cranckcase when chain wears but sometimes can be cam chain
Also I figured primary chain as possible source... so another reason for rebuild.
Personally I would never run or use an engine of unkown history, without totally stripping it.
Ether is also not my cup of tea there... or things like push-starts... an must fire easily and on own power...
The engine turns freely by hand, all "feels" smooth and precise, all is adjusted, oil pressure light goes out instantly (thus no major bearing issue), so there was no massive argument against a test run...
Anyway, I'll need a head and a valve cover, dunno yet what awaits me on the inside...
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Head and valve cover off any 500/550 will fit and look the same. The later covers had locked in spindles the rockers pivot on to stop the spindles rotating and wearing the hole in the cover oval, something the Yanks go on about a lot but I have only ever seen one---strangely the same engine i found the only 500 crank worn out i ever seen
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Already nailed a valve cover with named locking spindles on eBay 8)
And one used head resting on the shelf awaiting closer inspection, probably requiring lapping, thus new valves anyway...
Still, plasti-gauge, Graphogen and other items are already avail or on the "to get" list...
Next w/e I'll first check how my refurbed carbs do, then prep to drop the engine (already have a CB500/4 engine stand around)...
Still some headache about the fork bottoms, they appear very worn out, if I don't find a company able to fabricate tube-inserts, I'll have to seek new ones...
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The eBay sourced valve cover looks pretty nice on the mechanical side, outside shows corrosion, thus in need of soda-blasting and a colour coat...
A recycled DS-carton arrived today, containing a rear bumper in pretty pristine condition (cheers Bryan!! 8) )
Besides LH turn-signal base requiring minor adjustment, some buffing might bring it back quite good.
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You are welcome, didn't realise I had recycled a DS box but I do try to keep postage as cheep as possible
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The red [Fragile - handle with care] sticker is very familiar; I've a couple of those boxes here too ;)
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No postings does not mean that all went dormant ;)
A pretty steady flow of parcels with spares is streaming in, just this afternoon I toyed with some things, like the rear bumper (which looks really great on the bike), or the Habermann (which will definitely look good on the other, '72 café bike), dropped the aftermarket VRR and installed an OEM again, which is clearing the inner fender so the tray fits back into the frame...
Lots of small things to tinker with and check out, like brake pedal vs pivot (seems I'll first have to get new pads installed) or the kickstart lever, which is a bit loose and clanks onto the clutch cover when retrackting.
A pretty new (to me) thing I'd discovered is the bracket for installing a side-stand switch!!
I kid you not, right behind the kickstand pivot, the frame-tube has a sheet-metal bracket welded on, suited or holding a switch in the style/design of the rear brake light switch, also the kickstand has an extra nut welded on, receiving a bolt/screw to attach a tension spring to operate that switch...
Checked with the 500K2 parts catalogue, no avail...
Seems I'll have to look in the 550 pages for P/N's on that...
Any idea if this even was a feature/mandatory on a 500K2? Shouldn't a sidestand switch not only interlock with clutch and starter solenoid, but also energize a warning light on the dash?
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Never seen one on an old Honda and never one with a warning light, normally just stops the starter working or cuts the spark
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Checked the other two CB500 frames: no bracket for s/stand switch there...
Must be some crossover design meeting the 550 requirements...
Fixed the linkage for the bike-lift lowering-valve (installed two massive U-joints... the Chinese "invented" something using cotter-pins for the joints, which of course shared off at the 2nd or 3rd actuation... now the pedal linkage has no slack at all, enabling slow and precise lowering...)
Inspected the K2 a bit more:
- head bearings fully shot (nearly seizing up... ;) )
- front wheel bearings must have like 1mm gap, movement of rim between fork legs: +/-5mm... no wonder the calliper was binding...
- corrected routing of throttle cables by PO... now over front of frame head to LHS, through frame window above coils... moving pretty freely now...
There is supposed to a small sheet-metal cover above the steering limiter on the frame head... its badly mangled, any chance that's avail as spare?
Same for the bracket/mount holding the (rear) brake-light switch... the genuine one is gone, PO's had welded "something" onto there... like to get the original back on...
Disassembled and cleaned the genuine CB500 brake master I'd received from a mate here, really excellent condition, need to search brake-fluid resistant satin-black now...
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Not much happened...
Did some (parts) research, tinkered with the aux fuel IV/bottle (added hoses with quick connector, etc...)
Managed to drive the piston out the brake calliper (connect with old m/c, fill, bleed and pump out, while placing the calliper inside a bucket <splash!>... no chance getting it out with compressed air, ring fully gunked up, piston pitted, seeking replacement...)
Will change the front end and rear wheel from the yellow "spare" CB500 four (most parts missing, no title)
Found out that the two pattern ignition coils obtained have only 2.5Ohm, whilst the old OEM ones have 4.7... so the new ones are useless (unless I aim for dimming headlight and constantly drained battery...)
The more I look over and tinker with the SOHC Honda, the more I realize that such grows into an "endless" project...
So prioritising on the bikes alive and vital next w/e: my two ST1100's... small overhaul, fluid & filter replacements... ;)
The '94 ST is also due for alternator upgrade, swap of the lock-set (8 barrels + ignition), applying new nuke-yellow/lime livery from Bluelite Graphics, etc...