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Topics - petermigreen
16
« on: July 06, 2017, 10:59:59 PM »
I've been mulling over fitting a Boyer Bransden system to my 500 (following a points issue recently). I had a quick look at their available systems and as far as I can see there seems to be a choice of a system that retains existing coils and advance mechanism etc and another that comes with coils (not sure about the advance).
Can anyone with experience of them highlight the pros & cons of these systems in comparison with each other please?
Peter.
17
« on: June 17, 2017, 10:44:32 PM »
Anybody else going to this? http://www.hoc.org.uk/Classic2017.htmI'm not in the HOC but would like to visit the DS collection so seems like a good opportunity. Would be great to meet any other forum members (in the east) if you're going plus a good chance to run one of my fours out for the day and is a good 2 hours/95 miles away from me. Maybe see you there? Peter.
18
« on: June 13, 2017, 09:57:41 PM »
Bit perplexed by this one. I've managed to set my carbs up ok with the exception on No1 which no matter what I do just keeps leaking.
I did a bit of research and found some M6 x 0.75 grease nipples which I drilled out to create a means of seeing the fuel level in the float bowl. I thought this would give me an insight into what's going on in the bowls but now I'm more confused than ever.
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Even with the level below the seam I'm still seeing a drip out of the overflow. Obviously the image only shows one drip but it is continuous and about 2 a second so not inconsequential.
I can only surmise that the fuel level I'm seeing in the tube is not correct (don't know how this can be) as fuel is obviously getting into the top of the overflow tube.
Also, presumably the float valve isn't sealing if the fuel in the bowl remains high?
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance, Peter
19
« on: May 12, 2017, 10:10:59 PM »
Evening all,
I went for a little spin on my 500 tonight in preparation for an MOT in the morning, which is the first time I have ridden the bike (except for around the garden). Since buying the bike I have had my reservations about the US spec bars and having now ridden it I'm convinced that I don't like them. Maybe it's an acquired taste but I felt the handling was awful.
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So I would like to convert to a low rise bar like on my 400/4. DSS have a low rise set (but without cable routing holes) and 4into1 also offer alternatives but I'm nervous about throttle and clutch cables to suit the new lower/shorter reach bars.
Has anyone done this conversion that can offer advice or does anyone have the lower bars on a UK bike that can advise on cable length.
Thanks in advance (wish me luck on the MOT).
Peter.
20
« on: April 27, 2017, 07:38:41 PM »
Anybody tell me how much and what grade fork oil in 550 forks please
Tia, peter
21
« on: April 22, 2017, 10:28:19 PM »
One for the gurus please, I'm looking for the exact clutch cable route on a 500. I don't think mine was in the right place when I got it.
Thanks, Peter.
22
« on: April 09, 2017, 01:29:24 PM »
Rather clumsily managed to break a ring during disassembly today. So obviously need to get a new set.
Question is this. Am I correct in thinking that if cylinders are on standard bore then the pistons will have NO numbers on the top surface?
Anybody got any sets?
Thanks, Peter.
23
« on: March 24, 2017, 09:15:54 PM »
Okay, I noticed an oddity with my fork leg lowers, that being I seem to have an additional boss on the right leg that mirrors that of the left leg where the brake mechanism is bolted to the leg.
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It's shown here on the uppermost leg and the boss in question is the closest to the floor.
I think I may have seen this feature on the 550 forks (not sure).
So question is, are these forks a later version/some sort of different spec or what?
Not really worried as they are good functional forks but just curious and wonder if geometry might be affected if a different length from stock.
Or maybe they are correct but just rare?
I welcome any comments/ideas.
Thanks team.
Peter.
24
« on: March 14, 2017, 07:13:52 PM »
Evening all. I have acquired a US import 500 with a makers plate showing 12/72 and serial numbers starting CB500-211****.
date suggests K1 but on checking the serial numbers against records these suggest K2?
What do the experts think please?
Thanks, Peter.
25
« on: March 04, 2017, 09:05:13 PM »
Wondering if a 500K1 1972 airbox is unobtanium or shared with another model.
Thanks in advance.
Peter.
26
« on: September 27, 2016, 07:58:18 PM »
Since completing my 400/4 I've had an itch for a new project. So I went and bought this today. It's a 750 twin side valve engined WWII harley davidson. Sounds superb!! - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixIv2HzYd1A [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
27
« on: September 01, 2016, 08:08:10 PM »
Back in May, fresh on a high after completing my Yamaha restoration, I gave in to a whim and bought an imported CB400F on ebay and then drove 240 miles round trip to pick it up. With thanks to some of you on here I established it would go in my tiny van.
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I was hoping it would be a bit of a tidy up to get it through an MOT so that I could start the registration process but on inspection of the bike in the cold light of day I soon realised that I had a bit of work to do to get to that stage. With this in mind I decided that I didn't want to throw money at a full on restoration (i.e. chrome/paint work) so have sorted the essentials at this stage and will probably do the paint and chrome in time.
28
« on: July 17, 2016, 09:05:26 PM »
Have a problem setting the valve clearances. History first.
Had top end off to clean and paint casings so cam shaft has been off rockers bagged etc. valves 'lightly' ground in to clean seats/valve contact area using fine paste only.
Cam was removed after setting timing marks at TDC and replaced likewise. Rockers/valves labelled etc.
Have reassembled complete top end and following haynes manual to set valve clearances. Set no 1 piston at TDC on compression stroke.
So the problem is: I can set the set the clearance on inlet and exhaust on no. 1 but on no. 2 exhaust and no. 3 inlet there is no clearance at all to get the feeler in and when I rotate the crank to get no. 4 at TDC on compression stroke the same problem exists in that I can set in/ex on no. 4 but cannot get feeler under no. 3 ex and no. 2 in.
I'm wondering if I've put the cam back in wrong, i.e. with no. 4 on compression stroke and not no. 1.
Any help or suggestions gratefully received. Thanks in advance, Peter.
29
« on: June 18, 2016, 10:36:34 PM »
Guess I'm looking for a little re-assurance here.
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Looking down the Cam chain tunnel, at the front where the chain guide sits. The casting seems a little ragged. Does this look correct.
There are no fragments in the bottom of the engine so I'm fairly confident but would like a second opinion.
Thanks, Peter.
30
« on: June 17, 2016, 10:08:02 PM »
Next query. Stripped out my neutral switch tonight and the wire connecting to it was just pushed through a hole in the end of it. I thought this looked odd and expected to see some form of connection, so searched for one online and they all seem to look the same.
So question is - is that it, is the wire just pushed through the hole in the end of the post, and held in place with the spring, or should there be some other form of connection?
Just seems a little heath robinson to me.
Thanks, Peter.
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