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Messages - petermigreen
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466
« on: June 20, 2016, 01:55:05 PM »
Thanks, that's good to know. As said, the mechanism is lovely and free and the chain looks very good. Given that I'm not going to split the engine any further as it is very good with hardly any wear.
Thanks again all. Peter
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467
« on: June 19, 2016, 02:17:09 PM »
The adjuster plunger is free as a bird so that's a relief. Don't really want to split the cases as otherwise the engine is sweet.
Thanks for your advice. Peter
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468
« on: June 19, 2016, 08:45:30 AM »
Can the tension not be freed off without splitting cases? It moves freely around its arc.
Thanks, Peter
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469
« on: June 18, 2016, 10:36:34 PM »
Guess I'm looking for a little re-assurance here.
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Looking down the Cam chain tunnel, at the front where the chain guide sits. The casting seems a little ragged. Does this look correct.
There are no fragments in the bottom of the engine so I'm fairly confident but would like a second opinion.
Thanks, Peter.
470
« on: June 17, 2016, 10:08:02 PM »
Next query. Stripped out my neutral switch tonight and the wire connecting to it was just pushed through a hole in the end of it. I thought this looked odd and expected to see some form of connection, so searched for one online and they all seem to look the same.
So question is - is that it, is the wire just pushed through the hole in the end of the post, and held in place with the spring, or should there be some other form of connection?
Just seems a little heath robinson to me.
Thanks, Peter.
471
« on: June 16, 2016, 10:32:17 PM »
Thanks for your time maintaining this great resource.
Peter
472
« on: June 16, 2016, 10:30:18 PM »
I make my own out of a kitchen sponge/ scourer thingy. The foam is a similar density to the original and I just cut it to size and shape with a scalpel. Does the job a treat and you can get 4 out of one scourer.
What a great tip. Thanks a lot. However, I now need to think of an excuse when kitchen scourers go missing  Peter
473
« on: June 16, 2016, 12:52:44 PM »
Cool, thanks. Looks like an oil trap then for recycled air.
Afraid I haven't printed off the service manual yet so it's not always easy to find information in the documents.
Thanks, Peter
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474
« on: June 15, 2016, 10:23:20 PM »
Can someone tell me about the panching plates and element that appears to sit underneath the air filter in the airbox.
My bike is naturally missing these parts and I think I can source some used panching plates but the element B - 17352-377-000 seems NLA.
What exactly is this part for? Some sort of additional filter? Oil trap?
Is there anything available that can be used as a substitute?
Thanks in advance.
Peter.
475
« on: June 15, 2016, 10:13:19 PM »
I'm having to replace the coils and plug caps on the 400/4 project as the old ones are past it being cracked and broken.
DSS has the correct? black plug caps for cylinders 2&3 but not 1&4. The price seems a bit on the expensive side though and I can only get two but need all four so I'm looking at buying a full set of black NGK's from e-bay at a third of the price.
Can anyone advise of the correct NGK plug cap ordering codes, there appears to be so many all with slightly different angles?Does anyone know if I can get the coils cheaper on e-bay, DSS are charging 29.95+vat+p&p per coil?
I'll post a few pics of the rebuild so far in the next few days, the engine is now complete and ready to fit into the frame and the marathon carb re-build is finally over but they are not yet tested for leaks although all the jets, needles, gaskets and o-rings have been changed throughout including the link tubes and I live in hope 
Dave
Have you seen these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160973248450?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
476
« on: June 08, 2016, 10:38:58 PM »
Cool, thought so, just wanted to make sure.
Thanks, Peter
477
« on: June 08, 2016, 10:13:59 PM »
Currently overhauling the front brake master cylinder, when I look in the pot, there are two holes, one is full bore and the other one seems much smaller, very small in fact, so much so that I can't tell if it's blocked.
Before I force something through it, can someone confirm that both holes should be clear/open. I'm fairly certain they should be as I seem to think the smaller one is to allow the piston to return, but don't want to force something through it if not.
Thanks, Peter.
478
« on: June 06, 2016, 09:49:12 AM »
Ok thanks, I've managed to source a 400 one now,
Thanks all, Peter
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479
« on: June 05, 2016, 10:03:45 AM »
Ok fine thanks, peter
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480
« on: June 05, 2016, 09:42:30 AM »
Cross my palm with silver and I may blab
You can get rep handles at £12 or OEM at £30 from DSS 
Both Unavailable on dss, hence the question. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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