Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Other Bikes => Topic started by: Johnwebley on May 17, 2016, 09:53:36 PM
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well,I have done it,
got a scruffy little RD125,
tiny next to the Honda,going to need some work,and tiding up,
as soon as I get it looking halfway decent,I will post some pics,
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Great fun 2 strokes, really easy to work on as well, 4 bolts and the heads off!, look fwd to seeing the photos John .
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Great fun 2 strokes, really easy to work on as well, 4 bolts and the heads off!, look fwd to seeing the photos John .
first pic,needs TLC,just like me,I have already joined the AircooledRD forum,had a quick read ,got some links to parts in the USA,
ordered so about £200 worth,pounds !! not dollars,although they do seem very fair and consolidate postage,and sends refunds,
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Oh it's the early round tank "torque induction" brilliant , that will be a little cracker when it's done, always had a hankering for the 350 version, getting too expensive now though, does it run?
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Oh it's the early round tank "torque induction" brilliant , that will be a little cracker when it's done, always had a hankering for the 350 version, getting too expensive now though, does it run?
yes,it sounds quiet,a nice burble ,
but no chain or battery,so will be a little time before it runs properly,
Yambits,a sort of Yamaha David Silver,dated it at 1974,early RD,
when I last had a 125 yam,it was a YAS1,and at times I ordered spares from a London company,Sondel Sport,
guess who used to work there??
David Silver,
small world !!!
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Yes, RDs are great. I have an RD350A which I've owned for years. My brother has a 1973 Yam CS5E 200, similar to this 125 that he is looking to sell, fairly tidy although a bit non standard and been sat for a few years. It used to belong to a friend of mine back in the day when I was riding my CB200 (all my bikes seem to be off the road), and when we took them up the by-pass I used to be able to get mine flat out up to about 85mph (that's what it said on the speedo anyway) and he would always be able to overtake me on the Yam. He was really annoying like that as before that I had a Yam FS1E and he had a Suzuki AP50 and mine would just about reach 45mph and he would pass me and then change up into fifth. The fizzie only had 4 gears as I remember.
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Yes fs1e was 4 speed. I had an AP and it was slightly faster,especially downhill when you could make full use of the slightly taller top gear. The old Honda ss 50 always gets slated for being slow but I seem to remember that the later 5 speed version was okay once it was wound up.
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I have both RD125 that I restored and RD200 (bought restored). Coffin tank 1980 versions. Great fun !
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How's the restoration going john have you started to progress it yet?
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yes,mainly spraying Plusgas and other products over all the rusted bolts,
spending all over the world using fleabay,
mudguards,airbox,air inlet tubes,filters,cables,stacks of odds and ends,not been able to get in the garage,but will soon,and more later
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quick update,
it seems to be coming apart quite well,as the pictures show,
main problem is the simple steering damper,the adjuster rod is rusted into the bottom disc,being a small threaded rod,I don't
want to force it,still trying Plusgas,or oil,or Redex,anything to try to free the threads,
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Try Heat and plusgas/wd40 at the same time----just be prepared for the flames!!
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A lot of heat works every time with me.
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still not attacked the steering damper,
just lots of Plusgas etc ,
so while that is (starting) to work,I hope,
I decided to start taking the "blues" away,
see a few before and after pics,nice to see some alloy again,
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As well as the above good advice, I've been undoing some very corroded parts with the following method but it does rely on getting a socket or some form of drive onto the part (I'm unfamiliar with the non stuck end of your damper rod).
Using a drill with screwdriver with variable clutch (not one of the newer types of impact screwdriver as the torque is too high and will snap components) if you get a square drive socket bit you can set the clutch really low and just persistently rattle with a socket first one way and then the other to free the corrosion, it make take a little working but it will usually get things moving.
Don't turn the torque setting up much as you are not at that point trying to undo it and it may snap easily, but just keep gently working it until it starts to free itself and you can get more lubricant into it before getting it to turn further.
Works well on case screws as well by using an impact driver bit to get some stuck ones moving, also exhaust studs are fairly easy even when quite corroded.
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I like the sound of that technique, I'll give it a try sometime.
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As well as the above good advice, I've been undoing some very corroded parts with the following method but it does rely on getting a socket or some form of drive onto the part (I'm unfamiliar with the non stuck end of your damper rod).
Using a drill with screwdriver with variable clutch (not one of the newer types of impact screwdriver as the torque is too high and will snap components) if you get a square drive socket bit you can set the clutch really low and just persistently rattle with a socket first one way and then the other to free the corrosion, it make take a little working but it will usually get things moving.
Don't turn the torque setting up much as you are not at that point trying to undo it and it may snap easily, but just keep gently working it until it starts to free itself and you can get more lubricant into it before getting it to turn further.
Works well on case screws as well by using an impact driver bit to get some stuck ones moving, also exhaust studs are fairly easy even when quite corroded.
thanks for your advice,in this case its a friction damper of the old school,large plastic head with a screw into a friction plate at
the base of the steering head,its about 4mm dia,see the Ebay link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371499958518?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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well,
heat worked !!
the damper rod finally unscrewed ,
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after loosening the threaded rod,,that turned out to only half the problem,the center boss fitted inside the steering head,and it was stuck !!!
lots of Plusgas,a few gentle taps with wedges to drive the parts free,and then out it came !!
then cleaning,stripping the frame ,and replacing the headlight unit,
this is a 5 3/4 unit,with a 30-30 watt bulb and sidelight,so I obtained the correct size reflector with a 35/35w H4 halogen bulb.
hopefully now it will be able to use more modern bulbs,
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getting some jobs done before I pop off to Italy for a break,being retired is hard work,with Golf,going out on rides on the bike,
evening out at restaurants,its damn hard work,so I need a holiday !!!
back to the little Yam,
having sorted the damper,got new headlight unit,time to clean up the frame ,so out comes the gunk and paint stripper,
in the pick are the headlight shell,fork ears,side stand and frame,also swingarm,all need more preperation prior to painting,
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Are you having it powder coated or spraying it yourself John?
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Are you having it powder coated or spraying it yourself John?
I am spray painting using industrial paint,various colours from the Rustoleum range,very durable and cover well,
I have heard of powder coating cracking if the brackets flex,
but,I am in a bit of a jamb,
I need to fing out the length of the Yamaha RD125 drum braked models spokes,
I cut the old spokes out of the wheels and disposed of them ,and the rims,before finding Central Wheel doesn't have the spoke details,
so if any of you know were a YAS3 and/or RD125 is,please measure from center of spoke hole to rim,
thanks all
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wheel problem sorted
Hagon wheels have all the sizes and details ,so ordered from them today
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wheel problem sorted
Hagon wheels have all the sizes and details ,so ordered from them today
as I ordered the rims,I guess I need to get the drums re-furbished,
and after a couple of hours,I have done about 80%
more to follow
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after removing the 'orrible paint,
time to restore a bit of shiny !!!
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That's certainly smartened them up John, I polished the outside of my hubs but sprayed the ribbed section (too difficult to polish), looks like new 18 months on, anyway keep up the good work!.
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more parts refurbed,
the exhaust had new studs fitted ,
and
the frame has had the stand pivots reinforced to take out wear and general slop.
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the frame is back to black !! that sounds familiar!!
get the VIN plate exposed,no idea what it means,hope to find out soon
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oh goody !!
the shiny bits are coming together
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Can't beat standing back and admiring the shiny bits! Looking good👍
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after some shiny bits,
some darker trims
with a before and after pics
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more bits coming together,
it at times like this I am glad its so small and light !!!
just got the fork tubes back after straightening and rechroming,I will fit the new seals over the weekend,and then it should be
on its wheels,
BTW,I used a local engineering company to skim the drums after the wheels had been built,great service and price,they do do
other stuff ,check the website,the guy that did the work was in the VMC,he has got an old CD200 plus AJS,
http://www.hmsengineering.co.uk/
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now fitted,
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well,a fine but chilly afternoon,
as they say "nuthin on da tele!!"
so time for some therapy ,
and its now "Wheels Down"
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Looking more like a motorbike than a collection of bits. Very therapeutic is a bit of spannering, I've just been doing the clutch on my mate's 400four.
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been some time since I posted ,so an update and a few pics,
started serious assembly,mainly the electrics,managed to get a very tidy s/h loom,made life a lot easier,also checked motor,the top end was
in good nic,pistons,rings and bores very tidy,the crank looked and felt like new,
replaced oil lines with clear,just so I can see the flow !!!
also fitted new chain and sprockets
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Coming on nicely John, what's left to do?
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waiting for carb rebuild kits,replace all the tinware,still at painters,
fit and check indicators,
and a few little mods,
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spent a few lovely warm hours unplating spagetti wiring and fitting rear indicators ,
and they work !! also fitted LED stop/tail bulb ,to save a bit of wattage .asI think the generator is not to powerful
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It's always a nice surprise when an original loom actually works, what with electrics being mainly magic and witchcraft , I labelled up all of the connections on my CR's original loom, but then took so long to actually get around to using it most of them had dropped off!, much guess work later it also worked 😄, keep up the good work john👍
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almost finished sorting the electrics,using a H4 bulb,
carb rebuild kits arrived ,soon be time to get the motor running
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just got the fork tubes back after straightening and rechroming
Hi John. Can you tell us a bit more about the straightening of the forks? The stanchions on Francis (my CB125) are bent and I've had stanchions hard-chromed in the past but never sent bent ones away so not sure if it's extra or if there's a limit to how bent they can be.
Who straightened them for you?
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Look on the inside of the bend and if there is a "Bulge" in the crease they are too bent to straighten. I believe Phillpots will straighten them before rechroming for not a lot extra
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Look on the inside of the bend and if there is a "Bulge" in the crease they are too bent to straighten. I believe Phillpots will straighten them before rechroming for not a lot extra
Rechromers have to straighten forks as part of the process, they will tell you if they are too bent, almost all forks are a mil or so out they told me, just from hitting pot holes and the like.
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just got the fork tubes back after straightening and rechroming
Hi John. Can you tell us a bit more about the straightening of the forks? The stanchions on Francis (my CB125) are bent and I've had stanchions hard-chromed in the past but never sent bent ones away so not sure if it's extra or if there's a limit to how bent they can be.
Who straightened them for you?
my forks only had a slight bend,and had been riden with the bend,so the top fork bearing had worn through the chrome ,
the guys I used are Dynasurf,Sandback,
they arranged collection and return,took less than 2 weeks,total cost £180
http://www.dynasurf.co.uk/motorcycle-forks
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Thanks for all the replies re forks guys. Will send my bent ones off to the place in Sandbach
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paint work starting to come together,
decals need applying,the fork ears still need a little work,but otherwise I'm happy,
one picture is how it should look !!!
other is how it is coming on
http://classic-motorbikes.net/yamaha-rd125b-road-test/
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So you're going for the A 'stripe' decals rather than the pre-A 'swoosh' ones. Probably a wise choice as the sidepanel/oil-tank decals are available for the A but on the pre-A it was a chromed plastic 125 badge and cannot get them anywhere
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So you're going for the A 'stripe' decals rather than the pre-A 'swoosh' ones. Probably a wise choice as the sidepanel/oil-tank decals are available for the A but on the pre-A it was a chromed plastic 125 badge and cannot get them anywhere
got the tinware back today,really nice finish,fitted new Tap,oil sight glass,and various little odds and sods,
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Excellent. Regarding the oil-glass. It's unlikely you'll be removing/refitting one again but best way to get them out is to push them in then fish them out filler-neck.
Seems a strange approach but they're almost impossible to lever out even if you're not fussed about damaging the seal
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thanks for that,
that is how a removed it,cutting the outer lip off,and pushing through,before taking it for painting,but getting the new one in was hard work !!!,I had to clean some of the new paint away before it would fit,
thanks for your nice comments
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nice sunny day,
a little pottering in the garage
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Is that the same as the RD 200 with the mechanical advance visible outside the generator, If so take a lot of time getting the timing correct with a DTI and a tool to hold the advance open, once watched a boss of mine bump start an RD 200 the put his helmet on to road test it for a fault whilst I kept it running the ride off backwards when he put it in gear as it had started backwards!! Lots of laughs and encouragement on that one.
If you want to email me direct(addy in profile) I will send you a pic of the special tool that will take about 5 mins to make
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thanks Bryan,
the 200 had an advance mech because of the electric start,a sort of Dynastart gadget ,all the others from 100cc up to 400cc used
static timing using a dial gauge, 1.8mm BTDC,or with the new fuel ,suggested 1.7mm
I have a Dial gauge,like going back to the dark ages with points again -))))))
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Nowt wrong with points mate, just spend a lot of time getting the gap correct and the timing spot on and you will be fine
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Any more progress John?
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Any more progress John?
a little more,
got the tinware back,
assembles the exhausts,clocks,electrics,just awaiting a decent throttle cable
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Looking good John, it will be great fun to ride, like an FS1E on steroids!
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Looking good John, it will be great fun to ride, like an FS1E on steroids!
I used to have a YAS1 twin, a forerunner of the RD,and a YDS7 ,a bigger brother ,before I started owning Hondas
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been playing in the garage today,
I have been having issues with the throttle cable,it is one cable from twistgrip to a splitter,then 2 carb and 1 oilpump cable,try as I might
I could not get this to work properly,each time both the carb cables detached inside the splitter unit,
the splitter outer tube,and nylon inner have some playso I surmizzed the inner was tiltingand the out flexing allowing both cable nipples to pop out !!
so decided to make a new inner unit,using nylon bar,
check the pics,and yes,it works great !!
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Very resourceful, well done John. Nice to see you don't let little issues get in the way of your restoration. Keep the pics coming! ;D ;D
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I was thinking about designing and making something like that after I saw it, well done.
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Nice bike, nice work!
here is the 1972 AS3 from a friend in the neighborhood.
You need min. 5.000 U/min to get of, but a 6.000 the wheel comes up. Much fun with 15PS
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Nice bike, nice work!
here is the 1972 AS3 from a friend in the neighborhood.
You need min. 5.000 U/min to get of, but a 6.000 the wheel comes up. Much fun with 15PS
the RD is almost identical with the AS3,infact it has an AS3 engine frame number,the difference being are reed valves in the induction tract,
maybe to give a bit more low down !!
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Forgot to say, first owner 1972 - 1978 of that AS3 was Karl Kling, Formula 1 and Carrera Panamerica driver with 300SL.
Nice reg. number
BTW: Sorry for OT
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after almost 12 months,I got her fired up ,
used the remote fuel bottle so I could have access to the motor and carbs,little bit of adjustment,synced the carbs,all the electrics worked,battery seems to charge,all the gears select ok up and down the box,
major issue,the clutch slips and drags !!!!as it didn't have a clutch cable ,or chain when I got it ,I couldn't check,but the clutch grips enough to kickstart it,
will get the r/h side cover off and see whats what,
tried to take a few pics of clouds of blue smoke,but it is not to much to see,,
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Could just be the plates sticking with a bit of luck John, should be an easy fix whatever's causing it.
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Could just be the plates sticking with a bit of luck John, should be an easy fix whatever's causing it.
well,the clutch seems to work OK now,stripped it and re-assembled,only just realised its possible to kick start while in gear !!
just going around finishing all those small jobs but its looking a lot better than 12 months ago
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almost finished,
ticks over really nicely,clutch now sorted,( I think)
starts OK
the carbs have been re-built using Keyster kits ,KY-0160 ,with #94 main jet,but the engine will not rev past 6K,seems far to rich,
any ideas ??
check out the pics,
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morning all,
HELP and advise required,
the little RD is not running as it should,low down is great,but no top end,we all know these should rev their "sphericals" off ,but this will not
rev about 6K,
so I checked the float level,well within tolerance 20mm +or - 2mm,timing checked,new plugs,starts beautifully
so I tried to see what happened as the fuel level dropped in the bowls,and as it got to the bottom,along came the revs,revved really well,so I am guessing its running very rich!!
dropped the needle to the max,clip at top,bit of improvement,
it has standard airbox,new foam filters,no difference if I take out the foam,
the carbs are Teikei 18mm,
main jet is at #94,as reccomemnded,
but on the US model it is #66
and a later version (DX) its #82
I guess I should try the #82 jets to see what happens,
do you know any thing else ???
I have posted on another forum,but despite lots of views,no advise,so I am sure the sohc bunch can help !!!
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94 does seem like overkill for what is effectively a 62cc single. I think I would go midway between the U.S. and the DX, say 75/78 and see what happens, but obviously being a 2 stroke running too lean is to be avoided at all costs! (Learned the hard way with a T500 Suzy many years ago, both pistons holed!)
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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Another thing just came to mind, did you have the crank rebuilt with new labyrinth seals, or did you chance the originals?
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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Another thing just came to mind, did you have the crank rebuilt with new labyrinth seals, or did you chance the originals?
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
I took a chance,when I stripped the top half of the motor,internally it looked as new,it is .5mm oversize pistons and bores,the pistons
looked as new,and the crank felt smooth and solid,
thinking of going to #80 MJ to see how it goes
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Okay, but off jetting doesn't sort it, bear in mind the labyrinth seals will probably be as old as the bike, and if they are hardened/leaking it will never run right. Did you get a chance to ride it before buying it?
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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Okay, but off jetting doesn't sort it, bear in mind the labyrinth seals will probably be as old as the bike, and if they are hardened/leaking it will never run right. Did you get a chance to ride it before buying it?
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
no,it was a not quite started project,no clutch cable,no chain,I did see and hear it run,it just blipped the throttle,sounded ok,
but no high revs,and no load
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just spoken to Nrp carbs,Manchester,
quoting carb model ref 39690,
he then explained early RD twins had a variance in mainjets,should have had either a #66 or #68,
not the #94 listed
hopefully this will sort it !!
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I certainly hope so with all the work you put into it.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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I certainly hope so with all the work you put into it.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
so do I,
but if not,well S**T happens ,it will mean a few more weeks sorting !!
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I think you should be OK John, if your seals were shot it would struggle to tick over and be hard to start, when you dropped the needles it improved so I recon it's just way too rich, I wouldn't run it much before getting the smaller jets as the excess petrol will be washing the bores etc, that's if it's got separate fuel to oil .
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fitted a pair of much smaller main jets,
seems to rev out now,
but as its not MOTed,or Taxed ,(free historic) I can't run it on the road,
need a few more checks,and then go for MOT,
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Hi John. Firstly I've not been reading in detail all the posts you've made re the running problems but just had a quick look at the last post about main jet sizes then had a look at my manuals.
A table in the 1st RD125/RD200 manual shows main jet is #66 (#64 high ground) for the 125 and #94 for the 200 (#92 for high ground). That may explain the confusion with #94 size mentioned earlier.
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Hi John. Firstly I've not been reading in detail all the posts you've made re the running problems but just had a quick look at the last post about main jet sizes then had a look at my manuals.
A table in the 1st RD125/RD200 manual shows main jet is #66 (#64 high ground) for the 125 and #94 for the 200 (#92 for high ground). That may explain the confusion with #94 size mentioned earlier.
thanks for this,it does explain the confusion ,
Andy at NRP also helped ,
these strokers are so confusing !!!
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finally got the main jets ,(66)
now I will book MOT for wednesday,
hopefully the weather will co-operate !!
as I want to take the Honda for a night out to Stow on the Wold,
latest pics and news later
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OK,the little RD is MOT ed !!
took the long route there,and back !! so put 30 miles ,the brakes started to bed in OK,amazing how hot the drums get !!
initially the motor was sluggish,but with some encouragement it would spin up to 9K,
cruising at around 7,500 RPM it started to clear out the oily exhausts,
after the first 15 miles the removable baffles were almost dry and the motor was revving much better,
lets see how it runs with a few hundred miles on it,this is how it looks after its 1st run !!
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Well done John. Enjoy it while we have the good weather (I was in Hereford today so I know).
Do you plan on restoring anything elso to keep you busy in the winter or are you short of garage space?
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Well done John. Enjoy it while we have the good weather (I was in Hereford today so I know).
Do you plan on restoring anything elso to keep you busy in the winter or are you short of garage space?
well,garage space is short,I quite fancy a Suzi T20 super six,
or a small Kwaker triple,250 or 350,but they are getting silly money,not quite "sandcast" level !!
I hope to use the RD for some time,its perfect for local country roads,
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know the little RD is on the road,making sure it runs well,and behaves,the project is finished
based on notes and costings,the initial purchase cost of £640,parts,shipping from all around the world,replacing badly rusted items,
the total is a shade over 3 grand !!
they have a saying in light aviation,"how do you become a millionare? start with two million !!"
it was a money pit,but it was fun,taught me patience,planning and a few skills I never had,
would I do it again?
probably !!
hope the sun shines so I can get out on it !!
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Also it's a worthwhile hobby. Other people with their hobbies pay through the nose for stuff like fishing rods, ham radio sets or hang gliders so why not us.
Personally, I always have a sense of achievement rescuing a wreck, even if I've lost money and sold it on.
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I think it's a very worthwhile hobby. We have some very big 'shoots' up our way and for the same amount if money you spent on the RD you could go shooting for 2 days and come away with a brace of Pheasant that you could buy in the butchers for less than a tenner. I know what I would rather spend my money on. ;D
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agree with Mike and Julie,
its a great hobby,but the cost did surprise me ,its great thats its running and now back on the road,all taxed etc,Historic is great !!
pics to follow on the out and about thread ,
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Which is why I chucked all my David Silver, powdercoating, Central Wheel etc receipts. I didn't want to add it all up or I might have become disillusioned. Ignorance is bliss.
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The bike looks great John.
I would spend more on the bikes if most of my wages didn't go on funding the next job (and new van ::) don't work in a car dealership)
But on the plus side I can book my bikes and parts receipts as Plant and recoup a few pennies.
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after about 100 miles,a slight hiccup!!
see pics,
problems to solve ,rides to be planned ,at least I am re-flating the economy !!
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Ouch! Were they genuine pistons?
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Looking at the top of piston it looks to be running weak (or wrong plug grade)