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Messages - royhall
1
« on: May 21, 2024, 06:26:54 PM »
Just checked the original needles that were in the carbs when I got them and they are the same as the upgrade needles. Must have already had the fix.
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2
« on: May 21, 2024, 04:21:56 PM »
When I get a chance I will check the upgrade parts against the standard parts and see what the difference is.
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3
« on: May 21, 2024, 04:19:10 PM »
I know what you mean Ash, but they do appear to be good quality. As with the rubber bits they may dissolve when you oil the chain though. Actually their piston kits are very high quality.
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4
« on: May 21, 2024, 09:50:44 AM »
Just checked the carb parts, Ash's upgrade kit versus Cruzinimage K0 set. The needles mike up differently but are the same length, the drillings in the emulsion tubes are a different pattern and possibly different hole sizes. I am going to ultrasonic clean the upgrade parts and use them in the 14C build. I have a pair of rebuilt 14H on the bike at the moment but I still think it's running rich. Not really had chance to take it out recently so I could be wrong. Just waiting for some floats to rebuild the 14C then I will know for sure.
5
« on: May 21, 2024, 09:26:55 AM »
Sorry Mo only just catching up with the thread. Been dealing with medical issues, two weeks holiday, the a bike trip to the Isle of Man to scatter my mates ashes. Busy few weeks. If you have a look at www.Cruzinimage.net they have the sprocket and the tank rubbers you need. The sprocket I used was the 68-74 item (35 tooth) and it fit just fine. When you do the search use CB450K leave off the zero or you wont get any results. On this page, don't use any rubber items that come into contact with petrol or oil as they wont last. Don't use the gaskets as they are crap. And for heavens sake don't ask them any questions or they will blacklist you. I don't think we used the same carb kits as mine were for a K3 and yours K0. Ironically I have two sets from Cruzinimage to rebuild my 14C's so I will get in the garage later and measure the needles against Ash's Honda upgrade parts that I will be using. I will report back later with what I find.
6
« on: May 01, 2024, 03:26:03 PM »
Apparently the downside is the rear light needs rechroming. What? That's embarrassingly bad.
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7
« on: April 23, 2024, 04:21:19 PM »
If your happy to take the exhaust off every time you get a puncture put the nut left, otherwise put it on the sensible right.
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8
« on: April 23, 2024, 06:57:54 AM »
That number plate looks huge, it's almost covering the indicators. I think they may have ordered the wrong size there. The drag from that sail will probably stop him cracking 50 mph.  Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk
9
« on: April 09, 2024, 01:42:15 PM »
RS Paints.
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10
« on: March 25, 2024, 09:12:20 PM »
Aye, and a farthings worth of tripe fa thy dinner.
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11
« on: March 24, 2024, 12:26:22 PM »
I had a talk with the Intergas sales rep at a demonstration at our suppliers recently and they do look impressive. Never fitted one myself though. Location could still be the big issue.
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12
« on: March 24, 2024, 11:37:43 AM »
The obvious move is a combi in the attic as you wont have to climb loft ladders to get to it. It's your concrete floors that are the limiting factor. If you don't want want a combi (why wouldn't you) you could remove the expansion tank and fit a pressure vessel fill loop combination then you could use a standard heat only boiler (limited types available and pointless). Or you could use a heat only system boiler which is basically a combi without the hot water facility. The far easiest is the combi in the attic though. Gets rid of the cylinder and header tanks altogether and makes the fitment way easier. Plus any replacement later on are an easy combi swap. Most of your pipes will already be in the attic due to the concrete floors downstairs. You may need to re-run the gas supply in 22mm and install a drain.
13
« on: March 24, 2024, 10:10:23 AM »
Ted. I'm pretty sure all back boilers were finally phased out in 2020 (Hurrah). The Viessmann boilers are reported to be suffering from burner box corrosion, the larger ones have even had a recall/replacement notice that cost the company a lot of money. When you say a bad connection to the condensate pump, was that water or electrics. The pumps on those things are a nightmare, if you have wooden floors you can replace the pump with a decent one. There's not room in a BBU for a better pump so we put them under the floor next to the chimney breast and pipe/wire to there. Obviously the pump needs to be lower than the heat exchanger so that wont work on a concrete floor.
I don't know the layout of your house but there are usually options. Is it a house or bungalow, is it concrete floors, are there laminate/tiled floors everywhere, is there room outside where you could build a small lean-to boiler room, is your chimney on an outside wall etc.
In 30 years as a gas engineer I have never failed to find a way to replace a boiler. An example was a back boiler replacement that we couldn't figure out. In the end the chimney breast (on an outside wall) was opened up and a combi put inside the old chimney then they had a cupboard front fitted. There was a lot of other work to it but that was the jist. Just some ideas for you.
14
« on: March 22, 2024, 03:36:27 PM »
Just wondering what the opinions are on this. The Honda manual for the CB750K5 says that the air screws should be backed out 1 turn +-1/8. I have in the past had to go to 2 turns out to get a 750 running correctly. Some of you have far greater experience of the 750 than me, just wondering what you think. Cheers.
15
« on: March 19, 2024, 06:26:52 AM »
Thanks Ash that would be fantastic. Don't really want to trust a plater to do those bits as they will probably end up plating the shafts or something similar.
Yes Mo the one on the right is a 14C.
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