Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: masonmart on December 17, 2019, 07:39:15 PM
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It's been asked before but I have a newly assembled Dresda CB500 and I can hardly pull in the clutch. I could never take the bike out as it is because I wouldn't be able to change gear after about the first two changes. Is this normal and is there any possible way that I can somehow improve it?
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The clutch should be light and easy.
Check the cable. Make sure its not corroded. And no tight curves.
Grease the worm drive with HMP grease.
Has it been fitted with over strong springs?
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Clutch on my 550K1 goes very smooth and light (I use 2 fingers), engine never opened and clutch does not slip
I suppose 500 is similar
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Clutch on my 550K1 goes very smooth and light (I use 2 fingers), engine never opened and clutch does not slip
I suppose 500 is similar
I think the 550 clutch has a different operating system.
The cable fixes on the same side as the clutch.
But the 500 fixes by the gearbox sprocket. And pushes a rod through the gearbox shaft.
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Dresda supplied, when contemporary, clutch springs that were higher rated than standard for all the Honda 4 cylinder engines. You may need to check the spec that's in there to assess what you're starting with.
They do make the clutch heavier by quite a noticeable amount.
Normally I'd change bike gearboxes without using the clutch generally if it's setup well.
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Correct routing of the clutch cable is paramount. Have you set the play of the lifter as prescribed? Is it greased? BTW, forget about the play at the lever as prescribed by Honda, but rather follow Hondaman's advice in: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,165583.msg1914790.html#msg1914790
I've adjusted my clutch thus, that there's hardly any play at the lever with engine cold. When the engine is hot, I have more or less the play Honda prescribes. Works fine for me. I never had a problem with the rod, nor with the adjuster/lifter. When working on them, don't loose/omit the steel ball inside the lifter!
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If it has "drop" type bars the clutch will never be light
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If it has "drop" type bars the clutch will never be light
Thanks Bryanj. The bars are raised a couple of inches but the frame isn't standard but a compact Dresda frame so it could be cable?
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If it has "drop" type bars the clutch will never be light
Thanks Bryanj. The bars are raised a couple of inches but the frame isn't standard but a compact Dresda frame so it could be cable?
You may have to use the cable US CB500 models had. They had raised handlebars compared to European models. Consult Parts Lists, DS or CMSNL for the part numbers involved.
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You would only need the US cable if the bars are about 4 inch higher than UK ones
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Funny, the CB500 clutch topic runs on the UK, the German and the French site simultaneously. Maybe it is interesting to measure and compare length of the CB500 as well as the CB550 lever arm (engine side).
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I've found at least part of the problem. With the clutch adjusted at the cover end as per the manual, the actuating lever in the casing is at around 45 deg at the start of pulling the lever in and vertical when the bar lever is at full travel. This increases the force needed by a very large amount (as above). I disassembled the actuating assembly, re-assembled it and readjusted it and it does exactly what it should. Still heavy but massively better. I'm not sure exactly what I did but I must have done it wrong when I first did put it together. The cable routing needs sorting out and maybe the length reducing to keep it straight.
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Perfect now.