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Messages - K2-K6
1
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:42:10 AM »
If there's response by swapping the leads over (within one oil pack) then analysis of why that could happen may give answer.
There's specific performance in the condenser relating to this (if the original system is in place) with it's ability to fire the mixture.
The opposite ends of the coil have slightly different spark characteristics, with also the condition in cylinder from the live one to the wasted spark one maybe causing a bias to disadvantage the live cylinder on compression and give a shift in performance to that cylinder.
Swapping the leads checks for that, also the insulation of the HT too.
2
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:26:13 AM »
Interesting thread. This fouling at idle - is this when the revs drop after running steadily for 20 seconds and can be cleared by revving the throttle to restablish the steady idle? Mine does have that tendency on the denso plugs but also one cylinder which is cooler than the others so I’m guessing that’s the one that fouls.
I have found on many different bikes cars lawnmowers-that iridium plugs give better starting, smoother idle and avoid fouling on two strokes. It seems there isn’t one available for the 550 - why not ?
Think I'd initially swap the plug lead with it's paired one to see if the cool running transfers with that lead. If it stays where it was, then looking more at that cylinder condition, compression analysis to count that out, idle jet system to ascertain if there's any impairment.
3
« on: April 26, 2024, 07:59:32 AM »
No experience on that bike from me either.
Does the gearbox have any problems now ?
If not, then an oil change to look a what's in there (presuming it's seperate lubrication? ) and check through for specular particle etc would be worthwhile prior to the general restore. Could be fine without strip and attention, with dedicated gearboxes unlikely to be compromised if lubrication has been OK through life.
If it's EP oil spec in there, my "favourite" oil is Motul EP 75w80 if that's in compatible range from specification.
4
« on: April 25, 2024, 06:47:36 PM »
Oh, your ape hangers may not fit florence 
5
« on: April 25, 2024, 06:41:32 PM »
Obvious check, starter clutch sprag, it's engament and ability to turn the motor. There was updated material specification for them .... should be in there on later build apparently ... no way to really check parts. It should though engage instantly, not hear it dragging without crank turning (slow moaning / screech) and fire it pretty promptly. Not helped if battery is low or not up to scratch in giving the sprag a good "hit" to get bite and rotation. If slow from battery, don't keep doing it as it won't help lifing. Fork seals, check for weeping as they can get a bit gummy. Rear brake caliper gers alot of water as underslung .... give pedal a good squeeze, then roll it back and forth to asses release. Not hard to service, with two slide pins and lubrication of pistons etc. It will need reasonable and regular inspection if used year round, though not a show stopper. Tires, check for alignment as wheel beeds are very well toleranced and resistant to popping the tire up onto correct place to run true. They're tubless too. Must run antifreeze all the time, not water. Generally tough and reliable overall. Great torque from motor, like a diesel bus  don't need to rev much for pace. Feel very different to many fours in character, can feel a bit top heavy with full tank, though steer very neutral considering they're not race rep type bike. Easy going to ride, you've got to load the pegs and muscle the bars if you really want to get them moving fast. Nice bike to own.
6
« on: April 25, 2024, 01:44:15 PM »
You're making the assumption that I've said it needs more power (supplied by the Boyer ? ) which is not what I've stated.
I agree it doesn't, there's other attributes within that system that hold value in this performance arena.
Question .... can you describe the failure mode within the combustion chamber which gives erratic acceleration response as you've described it ? In other words, why are you not getting a perfectly linear response with the settings you have.
Honda never state (as far as I appreciate) that you have to use equal idle circuit settings, just a suggested start point, from which their setup routine .... well written in my view ..... will allow settings for individual cylinders in giving long term combustion equality. Thats just normal in my reading of their factory instructions. It goes further in the later PD carbs, such that it calls for correct settings, then to record those individual adjustment as the genuine reference point from then onwards.
Also it states that they are set in this way at factory, advises not to arbitrarily adjust them without making good record of their factory position BEFORE working on them.
Sensible, I feel.
7
« on: April 25, 2024, 10:53:58 AM »
Not owning a 500, I've not that specific experience to offer.
A big BUT though, genuinely I've never had problems with plug "fouling" on four stroke engines, that's across all bikes and cars I've looked after since early 1970s.
Another observation, the Boyer ignition is very, very competent in it's delivery. I've no problem working with the std system, believing it to be mechanically almost peerless in it's design, application and component specification .... the Boyer i can see by comparison does offer tangible benefits if that's chosen by the owner though.
Among those benefit appears the ability to fire more adverse mixture range more of the time with exceptional repeatability. This seems to support a more optimum idle mixture that may give benefit in any residual unburnt component/fuel that may be affecting the fouling determination this topic is about.
Very loosely, NGK plug heat range on these engines could be approximated to continuous load under wider throttle for extended periods of time.
A 7 giving ROUGHLY decent coverage for 7000 rpm running.
Likewise, an 8 for predominately covering an 8000 rpm consistent load type riding. Etc, etc
Basically its a balance of number of actuation per minute against heat clearance from the engine, ambient air temp also playing a part in air cooled motors too.
8
« on: April 24, 2024, 10:47:39 AM »
The fact that the L was a half grade came from the same reptat suggested d7ev to me, and that man knew how to read plugs
Thats noted on some published charts too .... the -L designation. https://www.ngk.com/ngk-spark-plug-numbering-systems this lists that design element, although note that they have a statement of NOT being NGK USA official scource. The listed data looks comprehensive though.
9
« on: April 24, 2024, 10:43:18 AM »
From a wheel installation point of view ... usually I roll the wheel in, put chain on sprocket (not usually split) then roll wheel back and put spindle in that side, push through to brake plate, hold the spacer in there to fully locate wheel and then complete the whole thing by holding wheel rim at top as it's still located on chain side to facilitate alignment through right side of swingarm.
10
« on: April 24, 2024, 10:37:03 AM »
As interesting alternative Ted https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390062925510 these are flank drive and very low profile ratchet head for access. Another point for interest (I've already had an alternative manufacturer set like this) is that they make extremely good plug spanner setup for these 4 cylinder Honda engines, with the "pass through " arrangement being able to use the extension and a socket to drop over the plug .... being hollow, both item ... to make very useful reach and access for those two central plugs. You'd need to check that plug facility yourself though as mine is a different make (now not available) Bahco also owned by SO too.
11
« on: April 23, 2024, 04:42:51 PM »
Mostly worked on 750 and always with them on right side of bike. Amusing that in a original Honda 750 manual, a double page spread illustrated with exploded build diagram on RHS, picture of rear with it on RHS, also another picture installed opposite LHS. As Julie notes though, it doesn't make a difference from a clamping point of view, the spindle is "floating" and will effectively impart tensile load the same from whichever side you put it in.
12
« on: April 23, 2024, 02:15:48 PM »
If it's properly "farked" .... cheap socket, tap it on, weld it to it, then it'll come undone. They don't get stuck on their threads, just compressed the seal o-ring and if done too tight by previous O then "splaying" the filter housing. The bolt diameter is quite big as it houses the oil pressure bypass valve to accommodate if the paper filter gets blocked as emergency through route. The flange is relatively small in it's overhang from that bolt diameter, but probably difficult to cut off without risking the housing. A really good new/sharp set of "cobra" waterpump type pliers can get onto the outside of flange to succeed sometimes .... keep your fingers out the way though  in case they slip. It's an odd one, because they aren't usually stuck that much, as in not seized solid, just enough to prevent easily coming undone with a mangled hex. All because people avoid warning not to tighten them too much.
13
« on: April 23, 2024, 09:08:50 AM »
You could file the flats to give a little better chance with a smaller sized socket firstly.
The WD doesn't usually do much as they aren't usually stuck in conventional "corrosion" terms, more that they've been tightened too much to distort the filter housing and just making the torque required too high to turn easily.
The housing will rock clock and anti clockwise within it's pegged location, just a little. Turn if fully clockwise first, then while putting pressure on the bolt to undo it, try and turn the housing WITH the bolt, until it reaches it's furthest anti clockwise position.
Then hold the bolt and turn the filter back fully clockwise again, then repeat this to get the bolt moved. It's just fidgeting it (doesn't move much) but gradually ratchets the bolt to help it loosen. Once the pressure comes off the housing the bolt will usually move easily.
14
« on: April 21, 2024, 07:55:45 PM »
What's the original mc bore diameter on the 500 ? Is it 14mm ?
With that, 5/8 will give a hydraulic loss (disadvantage) but likely the mechanical on radial will be the opposite direction.
It shouldn't be too much in the way of overall effect, but only really thorough way is to try one.
If lever pivot is "bearing-ed" or very competent bush, and caliper is meticulously on target for free movement, seal condition etc, then highly probable it'll work well.
You'll not be far out of bed in reality, more a preference in how you like them to feel and ideal potency is going to be up for debate.
15
« on: April 19, 2024, 09:38:55 AM »
Are the moving taper part of the valve brass or rubber tip Dave ?
If brass, you could spin them in lathe and use a emery stick fine finish to dress the taper again.
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