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Messages - Gary400/4
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« on: February 20, 2024, 01:15:30 PM »
Hi everyone I have posted a picture of the scratch in the bore, I am still in two minds about using the cylinder?
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« on: February 20, 2024, 12:22:41 PM »
Many thanks for the responses, I especially like the comment by JohnWebly, about 2 stroke rings not snagging on ports.the new rings placed in the bores have an end gap of 0.279mm which is between 0.15 - 0.35mm standard ring gap. This means the bores are well within service. Given the scratch dilemma, I would prefer the replacement liner option. Does anyone know where I could obtain a standard liner with a bore of 58.5 mm?
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« on: February 19, 2024, 10:53:44 PM »
Hello all, I have recently acquired a CB550/4 K project bike to sort out, I have owned these previously and enjoy them more than the CB400/4.
I have stripped the engine to check it over, the engine was literally seized together, it took a lot of effort to remove the cylinder head, the cylinder barrel had accumulation deposits around the front barrel studs. I ended up with a few chipped fins. On inspection of the cylinder bores, the piston ring end gaps were still in service, but not by a lot, so I have purchased a new set of standard rings. On inspection of one of the bores, I note that a scratch is evident about 1cm long by 1mm deep running horizontal in the cylinder wall. I will be honing the bores to help the new rings to bed in. But I am worried about a ring getting snagged on the scratch as it motions up and down at revs. Is this something to be alarmed about?
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« on: May 14, 2022, 10:37:34 AM »
Many thanks my gear lever is now selecting again and the return spring is returning the lever to the middle. It was because I used a too thin clutch cover gasket. A DIY one I made out of gasket paper. Let this be a lesson to anyone else who makes thier own gaskets. Just make sure the gasket thickness is similar to the original.
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« on: May 12, 2022, 10:23:12 PM »
I am having an issue with my gear lever sticking in the up position meaning I cannot change gear. If I release the clutch cover Allen bolts a tad. The spring return allows my gear lever to return to usability again. I am wondering how much clearance there is by the clutch cover to a point of contact within impacting upon my gear changing mechanism. I have just changed my clutch thrust washer, given my old was very worn. Thinking that allowed my clutch drum to come in to far. Could it be the clutch cover gasket thickness. I have made my own using Flexoid gasket paper, it is quite thin? Any ideas most welcome. I had to forgo the recent NABD rally because I couldn't change gear out of 2nd.
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« on: July 09, 2021, 11:28:28 AM »
Thanks folks, yes it was my much thumbed tattered Haynes manual, I got my carburettor set up data from. If anyone knows of information more appropriate to setting up the carbs I would appreciate to receive it
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« on: July 08, 2021, 11:06:28 AM »
Many thanks guys, (I've been at my wit's end over this).For giving me a pointer to work with, the thought did occur to me to fully close the slides and adjust with the throttle tickover screw. But I decided that the manual must be correct and doesn't mention fully closing the slides. Only setting then at wide open throttle. The carb kit came with 35 pilot jets as opposed to the OEM 40 pilot jets. I have retained these in the carbs.The float valve needles are better as the springs are stronger to deflect the floats. When setting the 21mm height.
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« on: July 07, 2021, 07:36:50 PM »
I have taken my cb400/4 carburettors off a number of times to fully overhaul them. I have just replaced the main jets,emulsion tubes, throttle needle, set on third groove. Float needle valve and seats. Running a standard airbox, Throttle slides set at 1 mm at wide open throttle, seen from air intake side. The push cable distance set at 56mm, The carb kit I've purchased is from Red brain Honda eBay shop. I haven't got any obvious air leaks, my carb rubber intakes are not split and securely clamped, as well as the air filter ones.I have used the Haynes CB550 400/4 for reference data. To set the carbs. I am starting to suspect the information I am reading. Is there any Honda technical data.
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« on: October 18, 2019, 06:30:08 PM »
Hi everyone, good news and not so good news. I've got my 400/4 running firing on all 4 cylinders. Albeit with a bit of fuel leakage from one carburettor. It was holding steady on idle with a bit of choke on. At 1200 rpm I slackened the cam chain adjuster bolt to take up the slack. This quitened the engine noticeably. However, the quiet running was being punctuated with an annoying, Clutch rattle, which quietened when I pulled the lever in. I daresay when the bike is running in gear this intrusion won't be noticeable? I am not far off the limit on clutch adjustment, and I am presuming my clutch friction plates and any thrust washers are getting past their best. Time to buy replacements?
Gary
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« on: October 13, 2019, 07:38:41 PM »
Many thanks to the forum for all the pearls of wisdom, for my ignition dilemma. With what has been aforementioned, taking heed of this, concerning testing for insulation across my open and closed points. I am happy to state, that after taking my points terminations apart, and smearing silicon sealant in and around the hole in the tab that the terminal bolt passes through a couple of days ago. I can now confirm that testing across open and closed points with ignition leads and condensors removed. That the points are reading upon a continuity scale on a test meter. Open at infinity no circuit between the moveble point contact and ground. The moment the F1-4 mark aligned with the index mark. It remained open to the point the F2-3 F mark came around to align with the index mark. The points 1-4 went closed circuit until 180 degrees later when the F1-4 mark came around to align with the index. When they went open circuit.
This is a change from what was happening before which prompted me to sign up to the forum.
Bouyed by this I tested for a spark across a plug to ground, on both coils. Given the daylight was becoming dusk. I fitted a charged car battery with attached jump leads to my battery HT cables. I turned on the ignition, pressed the starter button, the engine spun over rapidly. Oil light went out and I saw faint sparks going across the electrode on my test spark plug. The fact they are faint is because the condensers are preventing arcing, the speed the engine was being turned over, the gap across the tip of the plug. If it is normal for a weak looking spark. I will put the tank on tomorrow and put fuel in and try to get it to run? One more thing, I am concerned there is too much suppression on the coil HT leads. The fact is the plugs are R type NGK with a 5 kohm resistor built in and the suppressor caps are also 5kohm resistor meaning each coil is subjected to 10kohm additional resistance.is this a cause for concern?
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« on: October 13, 2019, 02:03:51 PM »
I was checking my insulation resistance across my points. Which I rotated in a clockwise fashion with a 22 mm six sided socket on the hexagon. I made the following observation. As the ATU rotated towards the F mark for both both sets of points. At the point the F mark became inline with the timing mark. My test meter went from confirming continuity across closed points to a brief incident of infinity open circuit. Yet within a couple of mm movement of additional rotation. My test meter continued to show continuity across an open set of points to ground. My question is this: At the fraction of a degree when my F mark aligned with the index mark which gave me an open circuit infinity resistance reading. Is this a normal open circuit length of time for my coil and condenser to discharge. To give me a spark at the plug. Which I don't have at the moment?
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« on: October 09, 2019, 12:22:07 PM »
Many thanks for your further insights, relative to my ignition problem, I take note the kill switch is s potential cause for
concern, grounding faults, chaffed insulation. I will check mine, I agree with the remark that the insulators within the points might be suspect, current might be tracking through to ground? I will remove the items causing resistance within the ignition circuit. As a precaution.
The fact is, 11.7 V DC is detected across the points, given that the battery voltage has flowed through the wiring loom including the primary windings within the coils, switch gear etc. Indicates a healthy Voltage at the points. But I don't think the coil electro magnetic flux and capacitor voltage is being induced into the secondary windings, when the points open, given that the primary voltage has an easier route to ground because of the 7 ohms resistance to ground. I am detecting. I might as well buy a new set of points, to see if that helps. Years ago it was a forgone conclusion to change the points and condensors together. When I used to own a 550/4 I always carried a spare set of condensers, because 9 times out of 10 it was the condensors or one of them, which gave up the ghost causing the engine to limp along firing on 2 cylinders. Which is why I have serviced the points and replaced the condensors for new from Dave Silver spares.
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« on: October 07, 2019, 09:38:53 PM »
Thanks for the input. I am still non the wiser. The points are still serviceable given that they are gapped and the fibre heels mean that they are still within adjustment to time the moment when the points to the F1-4 and F2-3 marks start to open. The blue wire is paired to coil serving cylinders 1-4 and corresponding set of points. Conversely the yellow one serves the coil to cylinders 2 and 3. The black and white wire which carries ignition voltage common to both coils. The black wire within the loom is a positive supply to all of the ancillary components. Because continuity exists between live and ground via the resistance of bulbs in the console, there are 3 common green ground wires between hi beam and the indicators. I am wondering if this is causing me to detect this at the points? I have seen replacement coils for the FL703 on eBay at around £25 each. They are push fit HT leads with screw locking caps.
Should I be detecting continuity of around 7 ohms between the points terminal wire and ground when the points are open or should this be closer to infinity? To know for sure will help me with my investigation.
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« on: October 07, 2019, 11:46:44 AM »
Hello all, I have been toiling away over a couple of years in my shed resurrecting a forlorn cb400/4. The problem I now have is trying to get it to run. Engine is rebuilt, good compression engine turns over on the starter motor. I have 11.7 V measured at my ignition points terminal. This means current has flowed through my primary windings in my coils then out on to my yellow and blue wires. I can manually open the points to obtain a spark across them. The points are timed to start to open at the F1-4 and F2-3 marks. I have fitted new capacitors. Points gap set at 14thou of an inch.
The coils are Tec FL703 type, the primary resistance measured at approx 5.5ohms the secondary windings measure at approx 12Kohm. Without suppressor plug caps.
I have also noted that when the points open, if a analogue meter is used the pointer will drop towards zero. If I use a digital meter. The low resistance across a closed set of points should go quite high in terms of open circuit resistance, when the points open. But I am detecting 7 ohms of continuing continuity. Suggesting a resistive open circuit short circuit to ground. This has me thinking this is offering my ignition voltage a low resistance path to ground, lower than having to energise a collapsing electrical field inducing an emf into the coil secondary windings. It's all well and good putting new coils on, I am not 100% convinced that will solve my lack of spark problem.
On the points, I do wonder if the tiny insulting ring that passes through the the terminal screw tab, and has insulated discs either side, can loose some resistance.
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