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Messages - AshimotoK0
1
« on: April 14, 2024, 09:12:10 AM »
Nice one Ian,
I did a bit of that kind of thing during the 1st Covid lock-down. I made a few adapters etc to have a go at machining down rubber rollers. My mate Graham Curtis found that on CB72/77 cam chain tensioners/idlers that the rubber appeared to be rock hard but if you remove a mm or so from the surface, the rubber underneath is still pliable. I have always shied away from using chemical softening as I reckon that may end in disaster if the roller breaks up after softening. Graham told me to use a very fast speed and really sharp cutting tool. This was a bit of a problem because I always get the guy at work to sharpen my machine tools (old school tool steel) but he was off work, being furloughed. I had a go at sharpening myself with limited success. He was correct that the underlying rubber was still pliable but I chickened out a bit as I was attempting rollers off a Black Bomber K0 cam chain tensioner assembly .... mega expensive unobtainium 2 rubber roller/one steel 'sprocket' affair. Problem with the Bomber is that it a very long and complicated cam-chain arrangement and I was concerned that removing 1mm or so from the diameter of the rollers might affect the geometry of everything. Then lock-down finished and I was back at work and moved onto other things. It's an interesting concept though. I wondered at the time if freezing the rubber would aid the machining. Graham has done dozens and dozens of the CB72/77 cam chain tensioners.
Has anyone else had a go at this. Only really worth it on 'unobtainium' parts though.
2
« on: April 11, 2024, 07:34:04 AM »
Those Fork seal Holders are b*ggers to undo unless they have been removed before. Even the Honda special tool won't unfasten them sometimes, as it only has two peg mounts. My mate Graham Curtis made this tool up pictured and used it to remove mine. Problem is it also needs a bit of heat when they are REALLY difficult due to corrosion.
I thought this was a restored bike you bought Mo? ... I really feel your pain.
Give me a couple of weeks to try to round up the folks I sold carburettor mod. kits to ... to ask if they have anything spare left over. David Silvers won't have those kits ...they didn't even know of their existence. I told them about them and gave them a copy of the fitting sheet to add to their museum's archives room.
This is Graham Curtis's home made seal holder removal tool (in use on a CB72/77 leg but same seal holder arrangement as the K0 bomber and works on those too (Bomber has alloy bottoms/CB72/77 Steel).
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Below ....This is some other guys tool who is on Facebook (don't know him though).
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3
« on: April 07, 2024, 08:14:21 PM »
That experience was the 4k flat-spot, as described in the instructions for the carb kits (see below) I was selling a couple of years ago Mo but sold 'em all now and chances of finding any more are pretty slim. The ones I had came from the Honda UK Service Centre in Nottingham and that closed in the early 70's I believe. (you can tell as the fitting instructions are done on a typewriter)
A few people bought multiple kits from me and perhaps they have a spare to sell ...bit of a long shot though, Hopefully, the aftermarket parts were designed based on the upgrades but I wouldn't hold my breath there either.
Not sure about the aftermarket carb kits yourself and Roy bought .. they may address those problems dunno really. Probably why Roy is trying out later model 450 carbs.
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4
« on: April 07, 2024, 09:01:09 AM »
Pretty sure ChrisR will win at least two of the prizes hands down if he's there. Highest mileage plus the UK Press Bike JGC 606N if he takes them.
At the 750 event though, he was asked to be a judge by DS at the last minute because another judge didn't make it (think it was John Wyatt now RIP).
I will probably go, as Cathy likes it down there and according to her genealogy trail, one side of my family hail from Woodbridge many many moons ago.
5
« on: April 06, 2024, 01:18:32 PM »
Hello Ash.
Yes It is the one from Steve's spares. But as previously stated.
It is too long & too large a diameter. Yes the length could be cut down.
But the main body of the baffle is too big fit into the silencer. That's before we get to the end collar where the fixing screw is. That is even larger diameter.
Why after 30 years of ownership the baffle should fall out, us beyond me. But I'm really pee,d about it. It's loss has spoilt a lovely little tidy bike.
I am touched by your kind offer of a replacement. And the present availability situation appears to leave me no alternative but to accept.
Please let me know your price.
And if I can find a replacement. I will of course forward it on to you.
Sean.
Just send me your address and I swwill post it on ... no payment necessary
6
« on: April 05, 2024, 09:39:05 PM »
Is that one from the link I sent to eBay guy in Hull ?.. Stevesvintagespares? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255988586298....If so it's supposed to a C100 one... which should deffo fit. If you are desperate I can send you one of my NOS spares and just look around for a replacement sometime for me.
7
« on: April 05, 2024, 01:27:22 AM »
If so welcome back! 
(Attachment Link)
I have already answered this question you asked me via WhatApp a couple of weeks ago or have you forgot already Ash 
No .. you didn't answer that question. I said he was shown as being logged in on the stats page and that was what your reply was about. This was on the 'Who's on Line' section on the main page. So it was reasonable to assume that perhaps he was allowed back on again, seeing he was shown online on the main page. How can a banned member be online? It never happened with 'Bikepusher' .. as soon as he was off the forum (I assume kicked off ) he came up as 'no longer a member'.
8
« on: April 04, 2024, 07:48:38 PM »
uuummmm....I can't say I understand the post Ash! 
Does this make it any clearer. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
9
« on: April 04, 2024, 07:20:13 PM »
If so welcome back! [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
10
« on: April 04, 2024, 03:34:41 PM »
Here it is after bonding with the 2-part Polyurethane
Had difficulty fitting the two centre rubbers to the carb intakes, despite warming up the still fairly pliable rubbers. This is because the plastic collector box housing flexes ...... so came up with this 'tool' to push from the inside of the air filter frame. Will see how it goes 
How did you get on with the tool you made? Would it make much difference if I invested in a new airbox manifold to replace my 46 year old one? I truly dread doing this job. 
In the end i used a couple of pieces of wood ... plus the main thing is to heat up the rubbers as much as you can off the bike and before fitting ... I used an infra red heater.
11
« on: April 04, 2024, 01:20:35 PM »
Sounds like the battery to me Phil. But as Ted says , substitution with another battery will confirm.
Good to hear from you ...hope you are doing OK.
12
« on: April 04, 2024, 01:16:47 PM »
Updated my earlier post Mo .. check arm #11 moves freely and has decent spring pressure from spring #12. Also that the screw #19 which holds the guide plate to the shift drum isn't loose. But of course the shift shaft arrangement and it's spring needs to be looked at too.
I am also hoping that the little pins #4 which run in the channels of the shift drum and retained by 'R' clips #5 are OK too but 1st you need to check the stuff outside the crankcases and hope that's the cause.
13
« on: April 04, 2024, 12:06:10 PM »
Yes as far as Yamiya but I get my friend in Japan to buy them and ship them, as well as other parts from Yahoo auctions in Japan, as they don't have eBay there. Not sure how it pan's out if you go the 'standard' route as I think they hammer you a bit on the estimated weights and postage. Probably a bit cheaper in the long run though.
14
« on: April 04, 2024, 11:42:31 AM »
Here goes Mo. The hex head on the bit in the top crankcase was pretty tight but removed it and pictured parts in the images below. Also tried to photo inside the hole and you can see the channel groove in the shift drum directly below so pretty sure nothing can drop inside when you remove the 'bolt' thingy. Cursing as the case wasn't on the shelf where I thought it was ... I had stored it away in the bowels of my shed. [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
15
« on: April 03, 2024, 09:32:57 PM »
Are thanks everyone That's a bit to take in after all that I have done Thought I could just go out and ride Now Ha..... lol
I have looked on the D/S site ....... and they do have most like the Coller drum 24446-200-000 and the No 2 spring 24641-216-000 that they will have to order in....they have got No 12 spring No 24435-283-010 I have the No 3 spring already as that 24651-283-000.
If I unscrew that Detent 8-9 it wont drop anything inside will it Ash ? but I will take that out first to see if that is Ok and go from there.
Pretty sure you can take 8-9 out Mo without it going inside but you may need a small magnet on the end of a rod to coax it out. Don't attempt to move the shift drum though with the gear lever. Before you do it I have some spare crankcases in my shed so I will look more closely at it. You may have to rock the drum a very small fraction either way to get the the 'collar shift drum guide' Item#9 to release. Also check arm #11 moves freely and has decent spring pressure from spring #12. Also that the screw #19 which holds the guide plate to the shift drum isn't loose. I am pretty sure a 5-speed arrangement will not fit the Bomber K0 ... the bottom end of the 4-speed is totally different to the 5 speed .. the crank for instance bears no real resemblance to the 5-speed. I am told the 4-sp is more like a Honda race crank arrangement.
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