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Messages - andut
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46
« on: March 08, 2018, 09:07:42 AM »
That's reassuring - thanks for the feedback !
It will be interesting to see if the added capacity gives a noticable improvement in torque - looking forward to finding some time to get it back together !
Andy
47
« on: March 07, 2018, 11:31:13 AM »
I would be interested to hear if anyone has any experience with the 54.5mm big bore kits ?
My engine had 54mm Yoshi pistons fitted when i stripped it and measured up on max piston / bore tolerance. Bores were slightly oval and new 54mm rings not available, so I figured the 54.5mm kit was an option when I struggled to find another decent set of barrels. Engine is going back together now, so we'll see what happens, and in the mean time I will keep an eye out for a set of barrels in case I have a drama !
Andy
48
« on: March 02, 2018, 10:38:16 AM »
That's a superb looking bike Paul !
49
« on: March 02, 2018, 10:37:14 AM »
Everything has a price Ash, so if someone wants it badly enough, I'll guess it'll sell - let's face it the 400 exhaust has a notoriety for being sought after and 'worth' money !
I'm sure that we all keep an eye on ebay and the like and see the high prices being asked for parts and bikes in often questionable condition and get caught up in the 'well if they think that's worth X, then mine must be worth more as it's is in better condition' The truth of it is simple and been mentioned many times on here and in other circles, that it's worth what someone is prepared to pay - the availabililty of pattern parts does not seem to reduce and maybe even enhances the percieved value of genuine OEM.
Whilst on the topic of 400 exhausts, how do you identify if the exhaust is double skinned - is it the spot welds ?
Andy
50
« on: February 22, 2018, 01:10:58 PM »
Julie,
I have puzzled over the same question in the past and convinced myself that the answer is nothing ! Doesn't seem logical that Honda would have fitted something that adds cost and weight for no reason even if it was already a production tooled part from another bike, but I have never been able to find any use for the horizontal part of the bracket, and their description doesn't help !! The end of that part of the bracket looks shaped to suit a rubber holder of some sort (like the starter relay bracket) but nothing I can think of - maybe something for the US market ?
51
« on: February 19, 2018, 01:06:51 PM »
Well done - now you can enjoy that pipe !
52
« on: February 02, 2018, 03:19:01 PM »
That's a great looking bike Eric - well done on the rebuild, and I hope you enjoy using it !
Andy
53
« on: February 01, 2018, 10:08:07 AM »
thats a tidy rear end if you dont mind me saying!!  My number plate is mounted on a bracket fixed to the redundant pillion footrest mount - it's a smallish plate but I still manage to kick it regularly and it's amazing how it manages to get tangled up on everything in the garage ! Any nearer to firing it up yet ?
54
« on: February 01, 2018, 08:31:51 AM »
Tomb's right - you'll need to check that rear guard clearance vs. tyres when the shocks are on their bump stops - might require a bit of modification to your seat when you fit it.
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55
« on: January 22, 2018, 08:16:06 PM »
Looking good !
You'll enjoy the Delkevic - I have a similar bike to yours with the same exhaust, and it sounds great - have you let the baffle in, or gone for the full on hooligan experience ? !!
56
« on: January 12, 2018, 11:27:23 AM »
You'll have to pull the clutch cover to see what's going on with the kick start return and gear selection control - look's a bit messy with the various levers and cams. but it's relatively simple and just take note of where each of the bolts come from and where the various springs locate. You;ll have to do that anyway if you're going to split the crank cases to fix the cam chain tensioner problem that you have !
57
« on: January 04, 2018, 03:11:48 PM »
Do the job once and pull the engine - maybe more work & cost than you intended to start with, but you won't free the horseshoe pivot off by knocking the adjuster rod down from the front of the crankcase. It will also give you a chance to inspect the rest of the engine, replace oil seals, drive rubbers and both chains so that when you put the engine back in, you'll know it's good for a few 000's miles - you also have a step by step guide courtesy of Julie !
58
« on: December 11, 2017, 01:36:38 PM »
From distant memory, the dark green and red is the starter solenoid switched earth controlled by the clutch lever switch. The solenoid is also switched by the neutral switch via a light green and red wire, so it will crank as long as it's in neutral, but if in gear, it shouldn't crank unless clutch lever is pulled.
Bit strange if it's connected to a brown wire though - that's usually a switched live !
Sounds like you have some interesting wiring to check
59
« on: December 08, 2017, 08:40:20 AM »
Looking good Julie - glad I'm not the only one who gets confused with cylinder order when the crankcases are upside down - always a good idea to label parts when disassembling as you have done and then double / triple check on reassembly !
Won't be long before you fire it up and enjoy the moment of triumph........... followed by a few hundred miles of needlessly worrying about every noise and vibration (or is that just me ?)
Good luck with the rest of the build !
Andy
60
« on: December 07, 2017, 08:57:22 AM »
Hi Jon,
I'd be interested if it's still available - pm sent !
Andy
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